Tank switching?

[Beefer]

Hi all. I recently bought a 16' Bayliner Capri, and it had two portable fuel tanks, a 6.5g, and a 3g. On our maiden voyage, we topped off the tanks, and headed out for a short run (about 10 miles round trip). Well, that didn't go so well, as it seems the gas that was in the tanks was either bad from sitting, or had water in them, and we were left DOW about a mile from home, with about 4 gals left in the tanks. I dumped the remaining fuel (proper disposal at the marina), and decided that next time out we would take an extra 5g in a can. Ok, no problems, but we decided to change the fuel setup. I'm now running the 6.5g, another new 6g, and the 3g as reserve. It's a pain in the transom to stop the engine, switch tanks, and proceed as desired.

I was thinking about installing a brass T-connector, and run both tanks at the same time, making the effective fuel capacity of 12.5g, or adding in a 3-way (or 4-way) valve, and just switching as needed. If I do the valve, can I just turn the handle without stopping the engine, or will there be a break in the flow? Also, with either setup, where would I put the fuel/water filter? Or would I need 2?

If anyone has any other ideas, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!

 

[NJ lakes]

Re: Tank switching?

I have a similar situation, after experiencing a leak in our main tank (seam rusted out) we are now running 6.5 and 3.5 gallon portable tanks (getting a new plastic main tank next season). I had already added a filter, which is located in the splashwell at the rear of the boat. I put a male quick connect (we have a Johnson motor) on the inlet for the filter housing, so I can quickly change tanks since it is much easier to reach than the connection on the motor. Not sure if switching tanks on the fly is a great idea, since you may have a lag in fuel (and lubrication) flow. With the set-up I have, it takes all of 10 seconds. Hope this idea helps.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Tank switching?

Running both tanks simultaneously is another bad idea for the simple reason you cannot get both tanks to empty simultaneously and therefor one will always empty before the other and consequently suck air. Since both tanks will NEVER be at exactly the same level, the higher tank will tend to drain to the lower one. The best and only way to do this is to install a fuel selector valve with as many ports as you have tanks. Run on one tank, flip the valve and run on the next. You can even buy electric valves and switch from the console.

 

[Beefer]

Re: Tank switching?

Yeah, I wasn't keen on the T-connection set up, as I had the same concern. With the 3 or 4 -way valve, will I be able to switch on the fly, or will I still have to stop? Should I use 2 pump bulbs, or just the one higher up the line?

We wanted to just put in a 12g tank, but either of the configurations are too big to fit in the tank storage area.

 

[wildmaninal]

Re: Tank switching?

I just recently swapped from a 6 gallon portable tank to a 12 gallon built in tank. Now I have the fuel gauge, before I didn't have one.

There are different shaped tanks, surely you can find something to fit back there even if it means doing a little modification. As long as you can find one that has a vent on it.

After installing the built in tank it really made more room in the bilge area and it looks great. I could of put an 18 gallon tank in the back of mine but the 18 gallon tank I had wasn't stainless steele and was starting to rust. My boat is a bass boat though.

 

[rickdb1boat]

Re: Tank switching?

You can switch on the fly with no problem. Put the bulb in the line going to the engine from the valve. You only need one bulb..