Tailer light help

Rbsgfd578

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Aug 20, 2005
Messages
82
I posted a couple of weeks ago about my trailer lights giving me a fit and blowing fuses..Well I have put brand new lights and wire on the trailer have also followed a few of yalls advice to run a ground to each light instead of using the frame ground. Well here comes to the point of my problem, I have running lights but when I turn on the turn signal the fuse under the hood for the trailer turn signals blows,I still have running lights just no signals..What could be cause this problem? My tow vehicle is a 1997 Ford F150 if this helps any..
Any and all help is greatly appriciated, I am about at wits end with this wiring gremlin...lol.
 

rndn

Commander
Joined
May 20, 2007
Messages
2,323
Re: Tailer light help

The turn signal wire must be crossed and/or grounded out. It could be in your wiring in the truck. Buy a Toyota as they don't have those kinds of problems. Just kidding Ford guys.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Tailer light help

looks like you need a #3304L adapter, to adapt the truck wiring to trailer.
"http://lowcostusa.com/Merchant3/merchant.mvc?page=LCTS/CTGY/Lights_Electrical_8"
 
D

DJ

Guest
Re: Tailer light help

I assume your truck lights work fine without the trailer?? If not, your turn signal switch is suspect.


If so, you do have a short. It could be as simple as a bulb. Are you using 1157's (bulbs) in the trailer lights? Make sure someone didn't stick an 1156 (single) filament/single contact bulb in there. Also make sure that any bulb contacts are not touching both contacts in the light housing. An 1156 bulb will do that. 1157's will do that to if they are installed incorrectly.

I went through this very same thing when I boaught my current boat and trailer. The previous owner had stuck an 1156 in the socket. It kept blowing the fuse when I hit the turn signals.
 

wire2

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 25, 2007
Messages
1,584
Re: Tailer light help

You can test the trailer lights with a battery charger. Clip the neg to the tongue, (the trailer's, not your own) and touch the pos momentarily to the green (right signal) and yellow (left signal). You should see a small spark, with less than 2 amps showing on the charger meter. If there's a large spark and more than 10 amps, you've found the lead to the short.
 

HyperFox

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 31, 2007
Messages
78
Re: Tailer light help

Sounds like youve grounded out either your yellow or green wire somewhere. Below I posted this "mini-howto" I put up on another forum. I know your using a wired ground instead of a frame ground. Same things apply, you just have a lot more wire to deal with.

http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_diagram.htm

^ this is a good wiring diagram of what your probably doing.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
beg/buy/steal/borrow a multi-meter. Usually cheap and worth every penny.

First. Find a good ground. Follow your white wire down to where it connects to the trailer's frame clip the negative (black) lead to the bolt.

Next open the taillight housing and remove the bulb. Inside the bulbs base you will see a metal seath, and two metal pins or plates on the bottom.

Switch your multimeter to resistance (ohms, or the latin? omega symbol) the display should indicate 1, or open circuit which means there is no path for electricity to flow through.

Touch the positive lead (red) to the outside seath of the connector. It should read zero, or similar because there is a complete cuircuit for electricity to flow through. If it reads 1, the connection has no contact to ground. Inspect the white wire.

Touch the positive lead to one of the metal pins at the bottom of the connector. If there is any other reading other then 1, the wire or connector has been grounded out, causing the fuse to blow. Test the other connector. Again if 1 is displayed, all is well.

Repeat this process on the other side. By what you have discribed I suspect the fault is either on the green or yellow wires. These wires also handle the brakelight function as well. Depending on you vehicles wiring, you might also blow the brake light fuse if you step on the brakes.

Method 2

Insert the negative lead into the trailer wiring connectors ground. The white wire runs into this. Follow the wire where it meets and you should have a resistance value of zero or near by it.

Insert the negative lead into the turn signal connector. The green wire runs into this. Then go to the passengers tailight housing and probe the connector. You should get a reading of 0, or close.. This wire is good to go.

Repeat for the rest of the wires. Now. lets say the green wire comes back with a 1 value. This means somewhere the wire is broken! You could backprobe the connector to the tailight, but I would test the tailight itself, if it passes, replace the wire, and vice/versa.

Now you have also said youve run seperate grounds to each tailight housing, which is fine. Its just that much more wire to trouble shoot.

Personally I ran my ground to the frame, but thats just my way.

If youve done all this and still have no luck, start looking at your F150 for answers..

I hope this helps!
 

JCF350

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
1,149
Re: Tailer light help

Switch your multimeter to resistance (ohms, or the latin? omega symbol) the display should indicate 1, or open circuit which means there is no path for electricity to flow through.

Touch the positive lead (red) to the outside seath of the connector. It should read zero, or similar because there is a complete cuircuit for electricity to flow through. If it reads 1, the connection has no contact to ground. Inspect the white wire.

Touch the positive lead to one of the metal pins at the bottom of the connector. If there is any other reading other then 1, the wire or connector has been grounded out, causing the fuse to blow. Test the other connector. Again if 1 is displayed, all is well.

Don't know what kind of meter you are using but it should read infinity (most definitely not 1 ohm however).
 

SgtMaj

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Nov 19, 2007
Messages
1,997
Re: Tailer light help

Don't know what kind of meter you are using but it should read infinity (most definitely not 1 ohm however).

My meter reads 1 for infinity... otherwise it will have a decimal point and at least one digit after the decimal.
 

JCF350

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Oct 21, 2007
Messages
1,149
Re: Tailer light help

I have running lights but when I turn on the turn signal the fuse under the hood for the trailer turn signals blows,

You have a short circuit to ground to ground somewhere. That fuse powers the turn signal relays (the turn signal switch on the column will not handle the extra current of the trailer lights). Start checking where the wiring for the trailer connects to the chassis harness under the rear of your truck. Best bet is to get someone experienced with trailer wiring to look at your problem though.
 

Silvertip

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 22, 2003
Messages
28,765
Re: Tailer light help

Chasing a trailer lighting problem should always start by making sure the connector on the tow vehicle is working correctly. A test light or meter or a simple $3.00 tow vehicle trailer light tester will do that. If you are using a 7 pin to 4-pin adapter, that may also be an issue and again, make sure it is providing LT, RT, Tail, and Ground. Some of those adapters do not provide the right trailer match. Use a battery charger or a separate battery to test the trailer lights.
 

HyperFox

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Dec 31, 2007
Messages
78
Re: Tailer light help

My meter reads 1 for infinity... otherwise it will have a decimal point and at least one digit after the decimal.

Same with mine. I use a Fluke 189 Datalogger, which represents infinity as 1.

Isnt fluke such a wierd name for an instrument.. lol
 
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