Sylvan offshore that wants to be a Starcraft

[Watermann]

That's not paint coming off what I'm talking about is corrosion, I can see some of the rivet heads have craters in them where they're ate away and I would suspect the body of the rivet is corroding as well. I know pics are a tough way to know for sure so maybe some others can take a look who've seen this before. dozerII , jbcurt00 classiccat these guys have seen what I'm referring to on the rivet heads.

By the looks of it there's a number of the cratered rivets on that keel plate, solid rivet replacement is actually very easy and not all that expensive. Clean the area up to bare AL so we can get a better look with some pics.

 

[jbcurt00]

It does look like its got signs of corrosion around a bunch of the rivets and rivet heads....

The little salt deposit looking sprigs on and around the rivetheads...

It could just be poor paint prep by a previous owner, leading to flaking paint, but often, its corrosion pushing the paint off...

Each riveted has a single dimple on its crown, but several also have some cratering. Also typical of corrosion.....

Strip the paint, clean and access..

 

[dozerII]

I concur with Rob and JB . Take a wood chisel with beveled side up slide it under the edge of one of those rivets with the white stuff and give it a slight tap, when the head pops off inspect the underside of the head and the rivet shank for corrosion. Robe V 5 had hundreds of rivets like this from the salt in Great Salt Lake Utah

 

[Ejipner]

Well I hate to say it but I hope you guys are wrong
I don't want to replace a whole bunch of rivets if I can avoid it, but if that's what needs to happen I'm glad I have this support and abundance of knowledge to point me in the right direction.
I will hopefully get to it this week, but if I can't it won't be for another two weeks. I am taking the family to the coast for vacation.

But I really do appreciate all the help, thank you.

 

[Ejipner]

Alright so I got home late last night from Old Orchard Beach Maine, we had a great time camping. I got to do a little shore casting and caught a small striped bass.

I headed to my parents house to check out the boat and my parents wanted to see my kids, I had time to sand down the rivets people were concerned about and they look fine. I think it is just the paint bubbling and chipping around them. I am headed there tomorrow to take the motor off and I will get some pics and put them up. Please tell me what you think. I don't want to think they look good then have them crap out on me on the water.

 

[Watermann]

Sure post up the pics and let's see what you have now that the area is cleaned up.

 

[Ejipner]

Hey so I need to take pics to post but I am almost at the paint stage, I need to purchase enough to do two boats. So this boat is going to be aluminum paint on the bottom and white the rest with blue just on the top of the gunnels and around the front. The 22 islander is going to be aluminum on the bottom then blue to the top of the sides and white on the rest. I am thinking van sickle.

 

[Watermann]

The VS paint is great with catalyst hardener added and I know I painted the bottom of my Chief the AL color but now after doing the SS and leaving it bare bottomed I'm of the mind that is better than painting.

 

[Ejipner]

I have some dings on the bottom of the sylvan only reason I'm doing it. The Starcraft I may leave bar aluminum. I haven't decided yet.

 

[Mark_VTfisherman]

I'm looking for a trolling motor,My question is will an 8hp be big enoughg,
I will take some pics tomorrow, but I need some help with fixing it. I ordered gulvit and 3m 5200 today and should be here weds. Have people used advantac plywood for there decks?

I didn't see a response on the advantec. I haven't used it and I've been skeptical before a friend used it. I'm no longer skeptical: advantec in a boat is a very bad idea. Didn't make it two seasons before delaminating and getting 'soft.' Don't do it. It's not as bad of a choice as using pressure treated plywood, but just as poor a choice.

You don't need marine plywood, either. ACX fir or CDX fir plywood uses the same glue and processes as marine plywood. Marine plywood is not more rot resistant, it just has no voids in the laminations to keep it from having stress risers and fractures when bending to lines of a hull. Ideally what you want is Douglas fir ACX exposure 1A if not using marine but finding it in stock is getting hard. I'm doing a transom of three layers 1/2 plywood and I had to special order fir ACX at $50/sheet because I couldn't find it in stock anywhere.

Seal your floor edges after cutting to fit with one coat marine paint followed by a putty knife and 5200 if you're not fiberglassing.

8hp will be 'enough' but if not 4stroke a little noisy. It's not ideal, but worked fine on a friends big Lund. Another friend had a 4hp on an 18 Lund. I have a six for the 19' Holiday and expect it to be fine.

 

[Ejipner]

Well I haven't painted or made any really progress all winter or spring.... I did sell the other boat with the realization I will not get it done for at least 10 years. I did however trade the old 110 Johnson off this boat for a 9.9 merc for this boat. I also am in the process kept purchasing a nice 2013 115 etec. I have the deposit down, the cash in hand, just trying to find time to go pick it up. I have purchased paint and epoxy, I just need to get some plywood. I will also be redoing the transom now. I just don't want to have it all apart now and not do it.

On another note we just got a nice searay bow rider. It's a 24' with the 7.4 v8 bravo 3 out drive. In very nice shape. It's a glasser but it's in great shape,and the kids love it.

 

[Watermann]

Good call on re-doing all the wood in the boat at the same time.

I hope you're like me with that stern drive and enjoy doing maintenance and winterizing as they require way more than an OB does.

 

[Ejipner]

Okay so I picked up the 115 e-tec it’s a 2011 not a 13 but still for 4000 came with the controls and gauges I think I did okay. The thing is it’s a long shaft. So I need to buy a bracket. My question is what should I get for a set back? 4” 6” 8” or 12”. I know there is advantage to putting it back farther, but my worry is wear on the transom if it’s set back 8-12”. I’m thinking 4 or 6 would be more then enough. What are people opinions and why? Thank you in advance. I will post some pics when I get back home Monday. Also I decided I am good by to use advantac plywood and epoxy all sides for the floor and everything. Hopefully getting floor in this week and my brother will
be around Sunday next week to help me get some paint on it. ​​​​​

 

[Watermann]

Your boat should have a 20" transom which is for a long shaft motor.

 

[Ejipner]

I thought long shaft was 25”? I know mine is 20. I guess I will have to measure the motor when I get home.

 

[DLNorth]

Yup,
SS = 15
LS = 20
XLS = 25

 

[Ejipner]

Alright. Thank you for the clarification. The guy said it was long shaft so I assumed 25. That would be great if I didn’t need to buy a bracket

 

[Watermann]

It's uncommon to see an XL shaft motor except on POD brackets and some ocean boats transom height.

 

[Ejipner]

I erased the pics of the boat pre painted hull. But here is what I have so far. The transom has been replaced, the etec (which is 25" shaft) ready to go on. It's in the background I still haven't taken any pics of it. I have purchased a tahatsu 9.9 4 stroke. The bottom and everything from top of the sides up plus interior will be white with black trim, The sides will be black.

Slow and not so steady progress

 

[Ejipner]

https://m.imgur.com/account/EricJipner/images/ZlF3J5o