Suzuki DT-40 (1985) - Removing propeller shaft?? HELP!

andreeb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Messages
7
Hi there.

I purchased 2 old DT-40 motors, one for parts and the other as working (had to do some maintenance to make it that way).
And now when it's finally working, I found out that the propeller shaft is bent, so I need to remove/change it.

I have not managed to do so, same with the Prop. shaft housing, do I need any special tools to accomplish this??
And also should I remove the wayer pump house first or anything like that??

ANY help would be very much appreciated, im currently stuck and dont know what to do :(
 

robert graham

Admiral
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
6,908
On a 30 year old motor the bearing carrier lock ring may have to be chiseled out due to corrosion in and around the threads....Can you take the lower unit to a Yamaha technician with the expertise and tools for this job?....
 

andreeb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Messages
7
That is my next step, but im afraid it will be too expensive, I live in Norway, and they charge about 110usd an hour, and im guessing this will take far more than 1 hour right?

Thanks alot for your reply Robert!
 

robert graham

Admiral
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
6,908
If this is a saltwater motor then it could be challenging to remove the carrier but some heat may be applied(propane torch) to help remove it....good luck!
 

99yam40

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
9,228
not a lot of Suzuli guys around ,
but if you post some pics maybe someone can help with suggestions
 

andreeb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Messages
7
After alot of hours we finally managed to remove the broken prop.shaft housing on the defective motor (this one had a gearhouse/shaft in good condition)!
We lacked the correct/special tools for the job, so after hours of hammering and thinking we took two small carjacks, the cheap ones that usually comes with cars.
We screwed the nut back on the propeller shaft, added a round thick metal plate I had before we added the nut, and put a carjack between the housing and plate/nut, on each side.
After some minutes/few tries we managed to get the broken housing+shaft out of the gearhouse, without damaging the shaft or gearhousing :D

We then used a bladecutter on the working motor, and cut a rectangular "hole" in the gearhouse (this gearhouse had a defective/bent shaft, but the prop.shaft housing was in good condition)
Then we just used a small rubber hammer and got out the whole housing w/shaft in mint condition!

We then added the parts together and now I finally got a gearhouse with a good prop.shaft/housing ! :D

Hard work always pays off I guess! =)

Please excuse my engish, it's not my native language!
 
Last edited:

andreeb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Messages
7
And by the way, thanks for all your kind replies, this is by far the best boat forum when it comes to good answers, posted this on several forums and did not get so much as a reply! Glad I joined up, and hope I can help others with issues etc with Suzuki engines, i've gained some knowledge when fixing up this engine, no doubt :)

Thanks again, hope you guys have an excellent weekend!

Tomorrow i'll run the engine for about an hour or so in a bucket+the thing/clamp you put on the hose/water intake (can't recall the name of it in english), and check the gearoil to be sure it's completely sealed, if so it's ready to get on my boat! :)

I have a small 13" norwegian made boat, its from 1960, it's brand is : Selco 13 select deluxe. Had a 25HP Johnson on it previously, topspeed then was 27 knots!
 

andreeb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Messages
7
I thought it was running abit hot when running in idle (had it in a large bucket with the clamps/hose on)

I then decided to check out the termostat, figured that was the last part I hadn't inspected since I got it, when I removed the lid there wasn't any termostat there :S. Not sure how long the previous owner have ran it without one.

However, prior to doing this I removed the termostat lid on the sparemotor, and there was a termostat there, so I cleaned it up, heated it up on the stove to be sure it was working, and put it inside, now it's not running hot when idleing! :D. There was no water in the gearoil either, so that's good news! =)

I put the engine on my boat today, and it ran like nobodys business :D

Sweet engine, I paid about 450USD for both engines, not working, pretty f satisfied with that price now, even if I used 10-15+ hours to get it in perfect condition!

Happy boating guys!
 

99yam40

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
9,228
Now you and hopefully others will realize the stats need to be in a motor as they were designed
 

andreeb

Cadet
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Messages
7
Now you and hopefully others will realize the stats need to be in a motor as they were designed


Indeed, i'd never remove a part that's ment to be there. The only thing I have disconnected on this motor is the oil injection, as I feel I cant trust it!

Another quick question:
When I ran it before without the termostat (not knowing it wasn't present in the motor) the pee stream was hot, now it's running cool, but the water coming from the exhaust is "hot", is this normal, or should the pee stream be hot aswell? Or is it only ment to be a indicator that the waterpump is pumping water thru the engine?

Thanks,
Andree
 
Last edited:

99yam40

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Sep 7, 2008
Messages
9,228
Oil system is the same as the stat,
it is a very good system
gear driven so as long as the crank is turning it is turning also
keep it clean and it works.
Do not know a lot on Zuks but yams have a cool Tell Tail
 
Top