Suzuki DF150 stuck bearing carrier on lower unit

[Terry In the Philippines]

Thanks for taking the time to read this, and also in advance for any advice or suggestions.

I've a DF150 with a bent prop shaft that I am trying to remove. Gear selector has been removed, the 2 bolts that hold the bearing carrier are off, but I cannot get this unit out. I've tried the slide hammer method with heat, I've tried a modified bearing puller on the carrier unit, both methods yielded zero results.
The only thing I did find was that using either method, once outward pressure was applied to the prop shaft/bearing carrier, the drive shaft would sieze up until pressure is released. So I'm wondering what is stopping this unit from coming out?

Your tips, tricks, and advice are greatly appreciated.

Thanks again

 

[racerone]

Used in salt water I assume.-----The bearing carrier may be corroded and jammed in the lower unit housing.

 

[Terry In the Philippines]

Yes, salt water only and most definitely stuck. I've put a lot of pulling pressure on this and it won't move even 1mm

 

[racerone]

When aluminum corrodes you get that white powder.----That is aluminum oxide.----Oxygen from the air has joined with the aluminum.----So there is now more material in the joint between housing and carrier.----Nature has jammed this up very tight.----Good luck with it.-----Perhaps a visit to your local shop as they deal with this all the time.

 

[Terry In the Philippines]

When aluminum corrodes you get that white powder.----That is aluminum oxide.----Oxygen from the air has joined with the aluminum.----So there is now more material in the joint between housing and carrier.----Nature has jammed this up very tight.----Good luck with it.-----Perhaps a visit to your local shop as they deal with this all the time.

That would be ideal, but there are no shops here. I'm in The Philippines on an Island so it's kind of all on me to get this out. Appreciate your replies, thanks so much.

 

[Terry In the Philippines]

Hello all,
Still having issues getting this bearing carrier pulled on a DF150.

I've got a good puller setup, and it's applying a lot of pressure to the prop shaft, the only issue I'm finding is that as soon as a apply outward pressure on the prop shaft, the drive shaft (engine to gearcase) locks up. Shifter is in neutral and shifter rod removed, but I still cannot get this carrier to budge.

So I am wondering, why would the drive shaft lockup when pulling the carrier and prop shaft?

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[racerone]

Remove puller pieces.------Then put the 2 bolts back in place.-----Post a picture of where bolts are pulling.

 

[Terry In the Philippines]

The 2 bolts are threaded into the lower unit. The puller has clearance and puts outward pressure on the prop shaft, the carrier will slide on the bolt shafts. Can't see in the photo but I've an inch clearance between the carrier and puller. Theory of the puller can be seen here.

But no matter what puller I use, straight slide hammer, hook style, or the one currently being used, as soon as any outward pressure is put on the prop shaft, the drive shaft locks up as seen in the attached video.

So the question remains the same...what on the prop shaft would be locking up the drive shaft?

 

[racerone]

Year / model of your motor ?

 

[racerone]

Maybe you have to pull shift pieces out of lower unit first.----Or the bearing carrier and the driveshaft must come out first.

 

[Terry In the Philippines]

Year / model of your motor ?

It's a DF150, not sure of the year

 

[racerone]

I am not sure either.

 

[99yam40]

did you use some big wrenches like in the video to put a heavy duty strain on the puller?

I know very little about Suzuki's lower units, but guess they would be like others, so the penion gear on the drive shaft and the forward and reverse gears on the prop shaft are meshed all of the time.
The clutch dogs just lock the shaft to the gear selected.

could be putting the bearings and gears in a bind by pulling on the shaft locks them together so you can not turn the driveshaft or prop shaft.
Hopefully you have a service manual that tells you what all needs to be done to pull the prop shaft and carrier

 

[stresspoint]

how badly bent is the shaft , you may have to straiten it a bit with a steel tube , if its pulling on an angle IE: following a bend it will just lock up as its pulling.
be sure your puller is strait in line and even distance all around..

if the rubber o ring is binding ,which it may well be now after heating then you are going to have a hell of a time getting it to move , best is not to use heat , just good lube.
there comes a time when bruit force and ignorance comes into play with corroded parts , its just a matter of minimizing the damage you need to do to get stuff apart.
this might help > https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https://www.crowleymarine.com/d/tech_article/service-manual-df140a-df115a-df115-df115az-df140az-df115as-left-hand-rotation-unit-24df140a-df115a-df115-df115az-df140az-df115as-99500-92j00-01e&psig=AOvVaw0AnasyWHqWHX4NdEU7_-zR&ust=1681672860785000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA0QjRxqFwoTCKCJyN3NrP4CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE to determine if you have all the bits out that may hold the carrier in.

 

[Terry In the Philippines]

did you use some big wrenches like in the video to put a heavy duty strain on the puller?

I know very little about Suzuki's lower units, but guess they would be like others, so the penion gear on the drive shaft and the forward and reverse gears on the prop shaft are meshed all of the time.
The clutch dogs just lock the shaft to the gear selected.

could be putting the bearings and gears in a bind by pulling on the shaft locks them together so you can not turn the driveshaft or prop shaft.
Hopefully you have a service manual that tells you what all needs to be done to pull the prop shaft and carrier

how badly bent is the shaft , you may have to straiten it a bit with a steel tube , if its pulling on an angle IE: following a bend it will just lock up as its pulling.
be sure your puller is strait in line and even distance all around..

if the rubber o ring is binding ,which it may well be now after heating then you are going to have a hell of a time getting it to move , best is not to use heat , just good lube.
there comes a time when bruit force and ignorance comes into play with corroded parts , its just a matter of minimizing the damage you need to do to get stuff apart.
this might help > https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https://www.crowleymarine.com/d/tech_article/service-manual-df140a-df115a-df115-df115az-df140az-df115as-left-hand-rotation-unit-24df140a-df115a-df115-df115az-df140az-df115as-99500-92j00-01e&psig=AOvVaw0AnasyWHqWHX4NdEU7_-zR&ust=1681672860785000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CA0QjRxqFwoTCKCJyN3NrP4CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE to determine if you have all the bits out that may hold the carrier in.

Thanks for the reply, your brute force and ignorance thought is about where I am going to have to go. This carrier may have to come out in pieces in order to save the leg.

 

[Terry In the Philippines]

did you use some big wrenches like in the video to put a heavy duty strain on the puller?

I know very little about Suzuki's lower units, but guess they would be like others, so the penion gear on the drive shaft and the forward and reverse gears on the prop shaft are meshed all of the time.
The clutch dogs just lock the shaft to the gear selected.

could be putting the bearings and gears in a bind by pulling on the shaft locks them together so you can not turn the driveshaft or prop shaft.
Hopefully you have a service manual that tells you what all needs to be done to pull the prop shaft and carrier

Thanks for the reply, I've used big wrenches with cheater bars, and yes I've got the service manual, but they don't provide how to's for crusty sea water engines. Corrosion is the enemy here for sure, it's a battle, I may just have to try a different strategy.

Cheers

 

[99yam40]

Just had a thought,
if the bearing or reverse gear is binding into the prop shaft that would be a major problem pulling the prop shaft and carrier

 

[stresspoint]

the dog must be fully in the neutral position or it will bind on the gears..

OP those carriers are not cheap , you ? may find a used one , but being in the Philippine islands that may be a problem. so keep that smashing apart as a last resort.
shipping one from Australia may be an option , i have in the past shipped power heads and gearboxes to the Philippines's from WA and shipping was reasonably priced so it may be an option to search tor a replacement gearbox.

option B +1 straiten the shaft and run it .

try ,mixing some acetone and auto trans fluid 50 50 and let the whole thing soak for a day or so with some good pressure on the puller, that will soften the O ring as well if it questionable.

 

[Terry In the Philippines]

the dog must be fully in the neutral position or it will bind on the gears..

OP those carriers are not cheap , you ? may find a used one , but being in the Philippine islands that may be a problem. so keep that smashing apart as a last resort.
shipping one from Australia may be an option , i have in the past shipped power heads and gearboxes to the Philippines's from WA and shipping was reasonably priced so it may be an option to search tor a replacement gearbox.

option B +1 straiten the shaft and run it .

try ,mixing some acetone and auto trans fluid 50 50 and let the whole thing soak for a day or so with some good pressure on the puller, that will soften the O ring as well if it questionable.

Thanks for the reply,

The straighten option is a great idea, bit there is a very apparent bearing noise at the back of the carrier, so that option is out, wish it could have been that easy.

Apparently the crew ran this engine for quite some time with bent shaft, hence the bearing noise, but that's a different issue that can be resolved once I get this thing out.

I've no acetylene here so transporting to a local welding shop for paid assistance..heat heat heat..

Cheers

 

[stresspoint]

you do realize that heating is going to cook whatever is holding that carrier in place, O-ring , corrosion etc.
with that said and contradictory, use a good lubricant and some "gentle heat" to help make it soak , adding water and boiling will sometimes break down crevice corrosion.