Surge Brake Actuator - latch went over and is now stuck

[m1dn]

Got an older Atwood surge brake actuator on the boat i just got.
Had the ball jammed in and couldn't remove.
Took the actuator off and noticed the lever inside that moves the lock forward/back is stuck ABOVE the locking piece aka is moving in wrong direction and doesn't let the lock fully disengage, holding the ball locked until you unbolt the whole piece.

There's a large PIN-like bolt which has no way to unscrew it to remove spring and metal latch to fix their position.
Has anyone seen anything like that before? Any ideas how to fix or move the latch in correct position again?
Would like to fix ASAP, got the new actuator ordered, but everything is out of stock in Canada for last 2 years so it takes 2 weeks to get it.

 

[poconojoe]

Sorry, I can't help you.
I'm sure the experts will chime in soon.

My personal experience...
I got fed up with my surge brakes and switched to all electric brakes. Mine are drum brakes and I only boat in fresh water.

My actuator was so noisy, I couldn't stand it. I hated all that slapping every time I stopped or accelerated.

That reverse lockout lever on mine was messed up and the breakaway function was questionable. My master cylinder had rust in it. I had to replace a couple slave cylinders in the past. Bleeding the brakes sucked and they weren't functioning as they should.

I love my new electric brakes. They are self adjustable and they actually work! Plus, my Silverado has the integrated brake controller, which is fantastic.

 

[m1dn]

Sorry, I can't help you.
I'm sure the experts will chime in soon.

My personal experience...
I got fed up with my surge brakes and switched to all electric brakes. Mine are drum brakes and I only boat in fresh water.

My actuator was so noisy, I couldn't stand it. I hated all that slapping every time I stopped or accelerated.

That reverse lockout lever on mine was messed up and the breakaway function was questionable. My master cylinder had rust in it. I had to replace a couple slave cylinders in the past. Bleeding the brakes sucked and they weren't functioning as they should.

I love my new electric brakes. They are self adjustable and they actually work! Plus, my Silverado has the integrated brake controller, which is fantastic.

Was it hard/pricey to replace?
I think i might do that next year as well

 

[poconojoe]

Was it hard/pricey to replace?
I think i might do that next year as well

The consensus is that disc brakes are better suited for salt water, but I only boat in fresh water.

The brakes I bought were fully assembled on their back plates. They were a direct fit. I was even able to use my old drums, so I saved some money there.
Measure your existing brake shoe width, your drum diameter and the back plate mounting bolt pattern.

I had to change to a 7 pin connector because of the added brake wires.
I bought a new 7 pin pigtail that had a junction box on the trailer side. It was great for terminating the wires.

I had to run two new wires back to the electric brakes. I used the old hydraulic brake lines to pull the new wires through the frame. I just taped the wires onto the old brake lines. As I pulled the old lines out the new wires were pulled in.

I had to add a breakaway kit that has it's own little battery. It gets charged whenever the trailer is plugged into my truck.

I ran a bolt through the sliding surge coupler to prevent it from slamming back and forth. It's so nice and quiet now when braking and accelerating.

My truck already had the female plugs by the hitch for both the smaller plug and the 7 pin.
It also had the factory brake controller.
If your vehicle doesn't have the factory controller, an aftermarket one can easily be installed. Some tow vehicles already have the wiring under the dash. My daughter's Ram had a plug right under the dash by the steering wheel.

The 10" x 2-1/4" self adjusting brakes were $85. The breakaway kit was $40.
The 7 pin wiring with junction box was $35.
I had the wires, ty-wraps and all the weatherproof connectors.

 

[icyb]

Some are adjusted from the bottom on the same handle there turning. There is a nut you loosen so the ball comes off ,but when the handle is pushed down it still grips the ball.https://youtu.be/gXrV8rNI7xg

 

[icyb]

This will show it I hopehttps://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gXrV8rNI7xg