Stripping/painting my 1975 aluminum Starcraft. What is my transom made of?

[DJ_Allatoona]

Hi from Georgia. Got tired of my chalky/dull/cracking old white paint, decided to to the job myself. Here's a picture of my rig...the paint looks much worse up close:

http://i.imgur.com/KC9yVI8.jpg

So I used Superstrip and a random orbital sander to get the old stuff off the sides. It's slow going, but coming off. This boat had never been stripped, and the original yellow layer was there. History! Here's what the sides look like now....down to the metal:

http://i.imgur.com/6m77jBi.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/64qU8PW.jpg

Now I have a silly question about the transom. Is it aluminum on the outside (water side)? It's definitely wood when I see it from inside looking out, but is it attached to a layer of aluminum on the outside? I'm talking about this part: http://i.imgur.com/cfXxsBN.jpg

I'm ready to strip the transom, but I hesitated yesterday because I'm not 100% sure what this material is. What will I find when I get through the paint there?

Thanks.

(Oh, and yes, I'm doing this job on the trailer. It's proving to be a challenge. Haha)

 

[GA_Boater]

Aluminum skin with the 1.5" plywood inside. The transom will look like the sides of the hull after the paint is off. If you see wood, you sanded in one spot too long. LOL

The yellow is zinc chromate primer which is used to make the outer paint stick to aluminum.

 

[gm280]

I see a lot of hard work done already. It is a lot of work, but once you finish it up, you will be the very proud owner of the boat. No better feeling if you ask me!

Like GA_Boater stated, the yellow is a Zinc Chromate primer that goes on the bare aluminum first before other primer and paint. You can either use Zinc Chromate (my choice) or an etching primer on the aluminum before painting the new finish on.

I would apply the Zinc Chromate primer first, then apply a two part catalyzed primer on top of that. Then follow with either a catalyzed paint or base coat with a catalyzed clear coat(s) paint. It will last a very long time and look amazing as well.

I like automotive paints from PPG. But that is just my opinion. Others will chime in with their opinions and then you can read them all and pick the one that fits your needs.

But keep posting your progress. I'd like to see this to completetion. :thumb:

 

[DJ_Allatoona]

Aluminum skin with the 1.5" plywood inside. The transom will look like the sides of the hull after the paint is off. If you see wood, you sanded in one spot too long. LOL

The yellow is zinc chromate primer which is used to make the outer paint stick to aluminum.

Appreciate it. How're you doing, Don? Wanna come over to Acworth and supervise this paint job? Haha.

 

[DJ_Allatoona]

I see a lot of hard work done already. It is a lot of work, but once you finish it up, you will be the very proud owner of the boat. No better feeling if you ask me!

Yes, it is more work (and slower) than I imagined. But if the results are good, I'll be happy. As for when it comes time for primer, I have the self-etching kind from Rustoleum. In the spraypaint-size spray cans. From what I've read, only a very light coating is needed. Paint is also from Rustoleum. Oil-based enamel in glossy white. I'll roll it on and tip it with a brush.

 

[gm280]

Yes, it is more work (and slower) than I imagined. But if the results are good, I'll be happy. As for when it comes time for primer, I have the self-etching kind from Rustoleum. In the spraypaint-size spray cans. From what I've read, only a very light coating is needed. Paint is also from Rustoleum. Oil-based enamel in glossy white. I'll roll it on and tip it with a brush.

Whatever paint you go with, use a hardener with it so it resists scratching and such. The hardener will also make it impervious to oils and fuels if they get on the finish. JMHO

 

[GA_Boater]

Appreciate it. How're you doing, Don? Wanna come over to Acworth and supervise this paint job? Haha.

You sure, Dave? I still have bare aluminum where the rego numbers go and haven't taken any more paint off. I started polishing 3 years ago!

I think Tractor Supply has the hardener GM mentioned.

 

[DJ_Allatoona]

Whatever paint you go with, use a hardener with it so it resists scratching and such. The hardener will also make it impervious to oils and fuels if they get on the finish. JMHO

Hm, never used a hardener before. Is it something you just dump into the paint, or is it an additional layer I would apply to the boat?

 

[Woodonglass]

The last link in my signature line below has some good info on painting your boat and how to mix the hardener lots of members have used this with great results

 

[gm280]

DJ, sorry I didn't get back to your question earlier. The hardener is added to the paint as you mix and prep it for painting. And it can be used with a brush, roller, or spray gun. It makes the paint a heck of a lot harder and therefore it can take a lot harder beating and not scratch so easily. It also helps resist oils and fuels. Otherwise those things can dissolve or soften up the paint if left on the finish long enough. So I wouldn't even think of painting any thing without the added hardener.

Check out WOG's link above and he will explain it in better detail. Really worth the effort. JMHO

 

[DJ_Allatoona]

Progress report: Stripping and scraping and sanding the 42-year-old paint layers off is SLOWWWW GOING! Here's what the back of the transom and the starboard side looks like after a few hours of sweating today:

http://i.imgur.com/Cejcrii.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/VZdrh0h.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/tAf33RO.jpg

I gave it a twice-over with a baking soda bath today to arrest the acid. Needs a lot more sanding. 180 grit on the random orbiting sander seems to be the right mix of busting the old paint and creating a nice smooth finish. And my next session will be the fun one with me on my back underneath. I hope the paint I put on will be as bulletproof as the old paint I'm taking off! That stuff is stubborn.

And I'm going to make a separate topic about this, but who here has used the self-etching primer in the spray can? I'm starting to look ahead to that step. Haven't decided on a primer yet. Zinc chromate to roll on, or the self-etching spray cans from Rustoleum.

I'm talking about this stuff: http://i.imgur.com/alyXcIv.jpg

Looking for some tips or reviews of the self-etching primer. Thanks.

 

[Scott Danforth]

the original paint was a baked on finish.

I would buy a compressor and spray gun from harbor freight before attempting to use rattle cans.