Stringer replacement question

[ajarvis]

I found my starboard stringer soft in my 79 Sea Ray Sedan Bridge, port side is dry and solid so far. I havent investigated very far aft on the starboard side but forward I have solid dry wood. My question is, has anyone used Seacast or Nida-Bond when reparing a stinger. I was wondering if I could cut open and dig out the rotten wood and shape the solid wood to a taper, then pour in seacast or nida-bond and glass over it. Would this work? Would it bond to the wood of the remaining stinger? I'm asking because there is so little space to fit in a new stringer with out gutting the whole boat. Being able to "pour in a new stringer" would cost more, but would it be safe? Or am I going the wrong direction. Any input would be great, Thanks.

 

[steveclv]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Everyone is going to tell you to rip out all of the old wood and replace the entire stringer. I know that's not always feasible and for a limited lifetime repair it's possible to remove all of the rotton/wet wood, treat what's left with a penetrating preservative and then get some long stainless steel rod.
Drill lengthwise into the stringer so that the rod (I suggest 12" * 1/4" or 3/8") is about 8" into the wood, leaving 4" in the void left by the rotten wood. Put 2 rods in each end.
You can now pour your Seacast and the SS rods will act as a rebar - joining the old wood and new seacast into a strong unified piece - this technique is used in the construction industry when concrete is poured.

The wood is still your weakest link but this will add another 3-4 years to the life of the boat before more major corrective surgery is needed. It's just not for the purists.

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Everyone is going to tell you to rip out all of the old wood and replace the entire purists.

Correct, because this by far the best way to repair the problem

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringer replacement question

I REALLY want to say that you should NOT take the advice given by steveclv. It is NOT sound boat building practice and SHOULD NOT for any reason be done. This type of advice is NOT condoned here on iBoats. You SHOULD follow the accepted methods given here on the forum and accept the fact that the reasons they are given is because, as Cadwelder says, they ARE the best way to repair the problem. Not easy to swallow sometimes but it is the way it should be done. Tear out ALL of the rotted stringer and glass in a new one or replace em in their entirety with a Seacast type product. DO NOT do it Half Way!!!!

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Stringer replacement question

79 Sea Ray Sedan Bridge is a nice boat and very tough to match or replace without a great deal of money. I would not do a band aid type repair and I have never heard of using rods as re-bar in a stringer.

I understand the dilemma due to the hull layout and configuration with the stringer. You might have to use some sister supports to add to the good wood then move on.

I am going to opt to replace the stringer (seacast or nidabond will work) and ask Yacht Dr to chime in. This is a boat in his category and I would listen to his advice. If there is a "shortcut" or a re-bar method I am positive he will know.

 

[steveclv]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Sometimes doing things the right way is just not feasible. Sometimes we just have to band-aid things for a temporary repair.
It's not palatable and if there is any way whatsoever that you can do it right then DO IT RIGHT
But as I said, sometimes that's not an option. My solution worked for me and lasted until we scrapped the boat. The stringers were still sound.

As for whether iBoats condones it, well this is a public forum that is full of opinions that do not reflect the owners of the forum so please don't get all high and mighty about it.

 

[ajarvis]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Thanks for the relpies. Ripping out the whole stringer is a hard pill to swallow, this isn't a 19 ft open bow that I can "just" pop the cap.

Who is Yacht Dr? and how do I get a hold of him?

I need as many opinions as I can get (safe ones of course) so I can make the right repair. I just don't know where or how I would be able to gut this boat and it not be a 10 year project. Thanks for your input, Keep em coming.

As a sword boat running partner used to sign off "Over and under, hopefully not under over"

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Stringer replacement question

I shot Yacht Dr a PM ....... he is a professional boat repair guy who does this for a living and has for many years. His particular area of expertise in in larger (bigger than a runabout) boats, yachts and nicer stuff If this was an older bayliner, rinker or common older entry level boat I would just say my piece. Yes he does the type of repairs many only dream of.

Yes, safety is the primary concern and considering the overall size/displacement of the Sea Ray it is critical. The sea ray is a larger craft built to a different set of USCG standards.

NO, steverclv iboats is a private forum with strict opinions and guidelines. People get concerned about safety. Do you have experience in repairs of a larger boat to USCG standards? They are written to keep people safe in all water's be it pond, lake or salt water..... I admit right up front that the sea ray is out of my class of repairs. We have quite a few professionals here who do this as a living and I just try to guide people to the right one.

 

[steveclv]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Well I admit that I hadn't realized the size of that boat and so would probably/should have refrained from a reply. My experience was with a 19' open bow.

However, I did check with the Seacast manufacturer and while they insist that stringers should be replaced completely, they do allow a seacast/wood interface for certain repairs where the remaining wood is intact and 100% sound. The rebar simply ties in the two parts together.

The forum is a privately run forum with public access and no-where in the Ts & Cs does it state that contributors are not entitled to voice an opinion or that anyone is required to have proven certifications. The value is in the experiences of the many who have life experiences and who are willing to contribute that for open discussion. It remains the responsibility of the individual to determine whether advice from any person on a forum is correct, applicable or safe.

 

[SawDust{RM}]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Replace it now or Replace it later, the choice is yours

 

[Greg Mrozinski]

Re: Stringer replacement question

AJ,

Maybe a more detailed explaination of the size and location of the soft spot might render more valuable recommendations. Location will make a difference. As will the size/length of stringer to be repaired. A well constructed patch may work however it's hard to recommend based on the provided info. Have any pics?

 

[ajarvis]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Thanks for everyones input, opinion expertise or other. As for the stringer I don't have any pictures right now but I will get some up soon. This is a 30ft sedan bridge with an issue on the starboard side. She has twin Mercruiser 350's with Borge Warner trannys solid motor mounts and solid port side stringer. The area I have found is next to the starboard engine. The stringer disapears under a bulkhead that runs under the helm and into the the head (bathroom) and aft under a fuel tank. I have to open more up to find the extent of the rot traveling aft but so far I found about 2 ft of soft wood and expect to find more. I'll investigate more and get you guys pctures. Thanks for your post, and Bob_VT thank you for sending Yacht Dr a PM, I'm interested to hear what he has to say. I tried to send OOPS a PM (I don't know him) but his inbox is full.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Stringer replacement question

This is the kind of boat ajarvis is talking about
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[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Welcome to Iboats AJ..

Sorry for the LONG delay .. I havent been here for a week ( due to the japan quake/floods/meltdown .. I have bros that are stationed there ..).

Anywho.. you really need to give some pics and a little more info on the stringers..

I have never used a "seacast" type product. I have allways replaced with MG and glass.

Not to say It wont work..but I doubt anything thats mixed in a bucket and poured in will be as strong as ply.

It would really depend on location and how large of an area your talking about to give advise..

Need them pics ..

YD.

 

[ajarvis]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Yacht Dr. Thanks for getting back to me, I will get some pictures up ASAP.

 

[ajarvis]

Re: Stringer replacement question

Sorry it's taken so long to get back. I had to move the boat across the bay and started thinking about this stringer. The boat is in the water now and the closest haul-out is a few hour run up to Napa. Im worried about digging into this and then having to move such a long distance. I know there is a section rotted in this starboard stringer and it's not provinding much support, but if I open up the whole thing and dig out the rot I'm losing a good portion of the glass that may be the strongest support. Should I run it up to the dry dock and tear into it out of the water? Or would putting it on stands flex the whole boat and cause more damage than what I already have to deal with? Any advise would be great. My worst fear is opening this up and breach the hull with it in the slip and lose the whole thing.