Still trying to make it run, trying to make sure the timing is correct.

Aficio

Cadet
Joined
Jun 10, 2021
Messages
21
I work on this until I get mad, then wait a few weeks then start again. It started and ran fine for a little while, then stopped and would only run for a few seconds. I had used a carb kit with what I would call a rubber-type bowel gasket and when I took the carb apart I noticed that it was coming apart, so I removed everything again and cleaned it out using what I would call a small brush kit to chase the holes, with additions spray cleaner as well as air. When I put it back together it is acting the same way. I did notice that one of my condensers was sweating so I put in a different set and tried again, still the same but one of the second sets of condensers was sweating again. Today I used an OHM meter and set it for 200 meg and watched them both rise. I do have a meter to test the capacitance so there could be a charging problem I am not catching. I decided to reset the points with a meter and realize that the two places on the net, that I have found, talk about how to do it, but neither say where the throttle/timing plate lever should be. I can make sure #1 is on TDC. but the plate has to have a set point somewhere since it advances and retards, when the timing for when the points open.
Does anyone know what that point is? I know I can gap them at the cam high point with a .020 dragging through them and a .022 not going it. I would like to time it if someone knows where the lever needs to be.
Thank you
Aficio.
 

Aficio

Cadet
Joined
Jun 10, 2021
Messages
21
I did find one tonight, that showed the throttle/Timing lever to be pushed to the far right, looking from the front of the motor, or at total advanced. to set the points with a meter.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,720
The simple fact is -----It does NOT matter if magneto plate is at idle or full throttle.----What motor are you working on ?----And setting with meter is the best way.
 

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,142
btw ohming out caps and taking uf readings only tells you the specs seem ok
it does not tell you how the caps will perfrom at 200+ emf kick back volts from the coils

what ohms value do you read from plug boots to engine frame ??? post results
 

Crosbyman

Vice Admiral
Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
5,142
personnaly ...don't like those china high ohms coil. just returned a pair to Amazon !!!
just my opinion mind you hv wires must be 1/4 a hair size ... very delicate

much prefer 4-7 kohms ones for some reason.
 

Aficio

Cadet
Joined
Jun 10, 2021
Messages
21
First time dealing with them. When I first opened the motor up, it looked like it had the originals in it. the outsides had just crumbled. I am going to buy a cap meter, and recheck the condensers. In another life, I used to work on an Mk25 Fire Control Radar system and when I saw a cap sweating or bulging I pulled them out. This is the first time I have ever seen a condenser sweat.
 

racerone

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 28, 2013
Messages
36,720
Is the condenser sweating ?-----Or is there an oil leak and these are oil droplets on those condensers ?
 
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