Still no power

[Dan01543]

yes 170 each cylinder

 

[Dan01543]

Just trying to find out if in 1996 if they used nylon cams.i want to be sure before I start pulling the motor apart to find out that I don't.

 

[Scott06]

Just trying to find out if in 1996 if they used nylon cams.i want to be sure before I start pulling the motor apart to find out that I don't.

You have covered a lot already-

I assume you checked the timing including total advance? Is the spark strong on a spark gap tester.

What do the plugs look like as AD mentioned going lean is a potential issue given your sypmtoms. I know the carb was gone through but if it is lean I would start there.

Have you verified the balancer TDC is indeed TDC? They can slip over time giving a false indication of TDC. Can be easily verified by checking piston is indeed at TDC when balancer shows it.

Might want to search some of the ford forums on line to get a straight answer on the timing gear/nylon.

 

[Dan01543]

Timing isn't the issue anymore I had a certified marine mechanic look at it timing is fine.i had paid to have someone look over the timing.i was told by the mechanic that it's fuel related but unless I pay more money they don't know until they start pulling stuff apart. I can't keep throwing money at it.so the carburetor is been fully rebuild and I have 4 psi fuel pressure. So I don't know what else it could be unless there's a fuel filter screen in the thank or in the fuel pump that's clogged up when I give jt throttle and it loads up.

 

[Scott Danforth]

What is your fuel pressure at WOT under load

 

[Scott06]

Some tank pick ups have a screen inside them pull the pick up tube and look inside could also be anti siphon valve but as danforth recommended measure fuel pressure at wot

If it low tear into fuel supply if it’s ok likely the carb wasn’t done right

 

[dubs283]

Timing isn't the issue anymore I had a certified marine mechanic look at it timing is fine.i had paid to have someone look over the timing.i was told by the mechanic that it's fuel related but unless I pay more money they don't know until they start pulling stuff apart. I can't keep throwing money at it.so the carburetor is been fully rebuild and I have 4 psi fuel pressure. So I don't know what else it could be unless there's a fuel filter screen in the thank or in the fuel pump that's clogged up when I give jt throttle and it loads up.

Okay, you know base timing is correct. Did the mechanic tell you that the timing is advancing? You have not informed us of that yet...

4psi fuel pressure is fine, with no load. You need to check fuel pressure under load especially at the rpm you're having issues. Also you should check fuel pump vacuum, no more than 2 in/hg at all rpm/load. If more than 2 you have a weak pump or more likely a restriction before the pump.

You say the engine is "loading up" at the trouble rpm. This is mechanic speak for too much fuel, not a lack of fuel....fyi

 

[Dan01543]

So it's finally fixed it was my anti siphon valve was clogged up and not letting fuel at a higher rpm go in the carburetor it was restricted.
But now my risers are getting so hot I can't itmy* hand on them. My raw water pump is leaking a tiny bit so would that be problem and cause it not to pump as much and suck air?I have brand new manifolds and risers.but I'd like to know what's causing them to get so hot.i was told I'm supposed tto have a 140 thermostat in and not a 160 degree.i did back flush the cooling line for the raw water sea pump and it flowed right threw so there's no clog there and hooked up to the garden hose it runs alot cooler but in the water it runs hotter.i hope someone could help me with with this please. Thank you

 

[dubs283]

So it's finally fixed it was my anti siphon valve was clogged up and not letting fuel at a higher rpm go in the carburetor it was restricted.

And you wanted to tear into the motor to check timing gears? You need to be thorough with troubleshooting, had been posted many times prior to your jumping to conclusions. Glad you got it figured out.

But now my risers are getting so hot I can't itmy* hand on them. My raw water pump is leaking a tiny bit so would that be problem and cause it not to pump as much and suck air?I have brand new manifolds and risers.but I'd like to know what's causing them to get so hot.i was told I'm supposed tto have a 140 thermostat in and not a 160 degree.i did back flush the cooling line for the raw water sea pump and it flowed right threw so there's no clog there and hooked up to the garden hose it runs alot cooler but in the water it runs hotter.i hope someone could help me with with this please. Thank you

Again, be pragmatic about this issue, double check your work on the manifold/riser r and r. Hoses put in place correctly? Did you swap the impeller, oem? A leak on the water pump is not good, need to fix that and any other leak(s) noted.....

 

[Dan01543]

So with my 1996 volvo penta 5.0fl motor it's getting hot after the boat is now running good I ran it 3/4 throttle for about 10 minutes and when I got back to the dock my manifolds where hot but the risers I couldn't keep my hand on the top of them.both sides.i noticed my raw water pump was dripping at the bottom of the pump.figure a dripping every minute so would it be sucking air causing cavitation?my manifolds and risers are brand new 2 months old when I had them off I flushed the motor out and I back flush were the water came in from the outdrive and water came out. I did this because I wanted to make sure that there were no clogs or any obstructions through the water tubes going to the pump. Now I replaced my thermostat it calls for a 160ﾟ but the Marina where my boat is being docked at the mechanics told me I should have a 140ﾟ and they said what the 160 it's not opening soon enough and that's why my risers would be getting hot so I'm asking if this is true.im going by what specs are.so I know the raw water pump has to be rebuild but is there anything else I should be checking for.
And would the water pump on the motor be weak as well causing over heating as well.please let me know. Thank u

 

[Grub54891]

The risers get constant water flow. The seawater pump moves water to them constantly. The thermostat does not have to open to cool the manifolds. However the thermostat keeps the block at a good operating temperature. You say the seawater pump is leaking, yes it’ll suck air also. Replace it.

 

[Dan01543]

So what else would be causing my motor to get so hot because again after 10 15 minutes my risers are to hot to touch so that worries me because I don't want to ruin my motor.but does anyone know hot hot the block water temperature should be. I cracked the block drains and that water was very hot.
I'm also gunna buy a new temperature sensor since mine is reading 120 all the time.which I know it isn't right. I am handy around motors something's I ask for help which I'm doing know just making sure I'm checking the right things.thank you

 

[dubs283]

So what else would be causing my motor to get so hot because again after 10 15 minutes my risers are to hot to touch so that worries me because I don't want to ruin my motor.but does anyone know hot hot the block water temperature should be.

The sea water pump. Start there, that's what supplies constant cooling water to the manifolds/risers, obviously it's not working. Very common to replace the impeller, it's part of routine maintenance. You say the t stat is 160, that's what the motor should run at and your temp gauge should reflect accordingly if all is sound

 

[Dan01543]

does anyone have a part number for the correct gimbal bearing kit that includes the bearing and all the bellows with the gasket hose and hardware. I'm seeing kits for 1986 to 1993 and I have a 1996 volvo penta cobra sx outdrive and im looking for the complete kit. If anyone could help me out i appreciate it. Thank you

 

[Dan01543]

The sea water pump. Start there, that's what supplies constant cooling water to the manifolds/risers, obviously it's not working. Very common to replace the impeller, it's part of routine maintenance. You say the t stat is 160, that's what the motor should run at and your temp gauge should reflect accordingly if all is sound

Yea my gauge is going past 120 degrees so I'm thinking the sensor is bad.if it's not that then I'm thinking my gauge. But should the risers get hot enough that u can still touch them or should they be hot that u can't touch them. How hot is too hot for them risers.im gunna get a infrared heat gun and go from there but if someone has a reference to what the temperature should be please tell me. Thank you.

 

[dubs283]

How hot is too hot for them risers.im gunna get a infrared heat gun and go from there but if someone has a reference to what the temperature should be please tell me. Thank you.

There is no spec for riser temp. Generally speaking one ought to be able to rest a hand on either at most rpm. After a hard run it may be they are too hot to touch but after idling for a minute or so they should cool off enough to touch, even be cool to the touch.

Before you get ahead of yourself again, do yourself a favor and fix the known issues, leaking pump cover, replace the impeller and check for blockages in the cooling system