Re: still bad compression after rebuild
I would definitely get a another compression gauge and recheck the compression. You can borrow one from Auto Zone with a refundable deposit. If you have an electric start then use the starter to turn over the motor. I know recommendation are to have the compression values within 10% of each other, but for a 35hp year 1976, it should be up in the 120's psi, especially after a rebore, ring rebuild.
The only reason, I am poking my nose in is that I would not want you to waste money on a carburetor kit if your compression is true in the 40 and 50psi.
Remember
Basically(not all inclusive) for an engine to run and run well. There are 3 important thing to evaluate and resolve.
You will see a lot of experience guys ask about compression, spark and fuel. (They are using a systematic approach to diagnosing an engine problem or problems....in this order)
C= compression ( if your compression is low are uneven between cylinders >10% then others checks don't matter until the that is resolved) Low compression will cause your motor not run or run very poorly.
S= Spark (if your have problems with your ignition then you can have the cleanest carb and great fuel delivery but it will run bad or not at all) If you have bad coils (cracked) or degraded points or coils, replace. An iffy ignition system leave you stranded in the middle of the lake or give you constant grief.
F= Fuel (if your carbs are not clean and fast/slow idle needle are not set right then it will run but like crap. If you have it set too lean then you run the risk of poor fuel/oil delivery and damage your pistons and cylinders then you run into the problem of C (poor compression from damage).
For your motor to run and run well (this a general statement) all three of above categories need to be fulfilled.
The above is just a general statement.
Just my 2 cents
