Sticky timing base '96 Evinrude 200TXEDR

Keyboardman

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So, as I start to do a link and sync procedure on this new to me 200, the first thing I noticed was a piece of rubber hose slipped over the cam follower roller. This engine was idling pretty high (around 1600 rpm) when I finished the rigging and started it. I thought well, that might have something to do with it. Then I noticed that there is sticky goo around the timing base and it's very hard to move. Looks like someone has been fiddling around with it as there's tool marks on the timer base arm. So, the goo probably from the stator above it? The stator seems to be putting out charging voltage (14.3) on my voltmeter and there's got to be power pack voltage for it to run, so I'm assuming it's still working? I can't see anyway to clean up and free up the timing base without pulling the flywheel. Any thoughts or advice on what could be going on with this engine? Thanks
 

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dingbat

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Need to replace cam roller with new part. Can’t do link and sync w/o

1500-1600 rpm idle on a hose is normal. 700-750 rpm in water, in gear

There is no “cleaning” up a failing stator. If the stator has “melted” it needs to be replaced
 
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Keyboardman

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Need to replace cam roller with new part. Can’t do link and sync w/o

1500-1600 rpm idle on a hose is normal. 700-750 rpm in water, in gear

There is no “cleaning” up a failing stator. If the stator has “melted” it needs to be replaced
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it looks like there's a clear plastic piece missing on my cam follower, the piece of hose was someone's quick fix for that I assume. And yeah, if the stator is dripping goo, then I'll have to replace it, pretty sure I can clean up the timing base and re use it.
 

Keyboardman

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And a bad rect/reg is what melts the stator...
I don't have a carbon pile to load and unload the the rectifier, but what if I wire an ammeter to it and then switch to a discharged battery while it's running and see if the ammeter shows an increase in amps? My helm voltmeter was showing 14.3 running with a charged battery for what that's worth.
 

dingbat

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My helm voltmeter was showing 14.3 running with a charged battery for what that's worth matter. It’s a cute
Voltage doesn’t tell you anything except the regulator has not failed outright.

The goo (insulator material) is proof the stator has been overheated working beyond its capacity. Bad battery(s) and or loose connections are the usual suspects.

With the VR pushed to capacity, it’s only a matter of time before components start to breakdown and the regulator fails outright.
 

Keyboardman

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So the service manual says an alternative method of checking the Rectifier is by using a battery that's discharged to 12.5. the ammeter should show full 35 amps with the engine running at 4500rpm. I'm not comfortable running any outboard at 4500 rpm on muffs. So I'm going to replace the stator, clean up the goo from the timing base, link and sync it with a correct cam roller and get it running again. I'll do the rectifier test down at the ramp in the water. I have the waterpump to replace and a LU gearlube change to keep me busy while waiting on the new stator. Thanks guys.
 

Faztbullet

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Make sure you use locknut and not wing nuts on battery connections.
 
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