Sterndrive

[Salvador0673]

I have a crownline 1997 with a 5.7 mercruiser and an Alpha one gen 2 sterndrive. I was having vibration when I would turn left and right on low Rev. I took the stern off to check the gimbal and the ujoint both were almost new. No water leak. I took the gimbal out to inspect and it was good, however I bough a new one just to be sure. I install the new one. I think I probably use more force with the hammer than I needed. But it did install. I check aligment and it was off by a little bit. In the bottoms no line and the top it had line. I aligned the engine using the aligment tool. Now it has line all around. I crank the engine and did another check and it had line all around. It needed I little more pressure on the tool bar to go in, but it turn 360 fine. My problem is that for 3 days I have been trying to install the sterndrive back and for the life of me I can't do it. The last 2 inches it would not go in. It stop just by the ujoint ring. I have turned the propeller to align the splinters, and nothing helps. The lever is forward. I grease the end of the shift. What is happening. Could I have ruin the cooler? I hammered the gimbal with a 10lbs hammer using the aligment tool. Can dirt fiend its way into the coupler? And if so, how can I clean it without taking the motor out? Please if someone have an idea help me.

 

[Eric 3.7LX Alpha 1]

Usually vibration like what you are describing is from worn u-joints. Too much grease on the splines can make putting the drive back on difficult also.. and don't use grease on the two O rings on the shaft that seal inside the gimbal bearing, light oil on them instead or they will hold you up from getting the drive on.

Here is a video one of our Moderators made re-installing your drive, see if there is something you are doing or not doing wrong:

 

[Alumarine]

Ujoints can be deceiving.
I've had them look good, but been bad.

 

[tpenfield]

Welcome to iBoats . . .

As for your question about the outdrive not going on . . .

Does the gimbal bearing look properly seated? If it was difficult to install, it may not be correct. The gimbal bearing may not be in all the way, or the drive shaft is not actually going into the coupler on the engine.

As a check . . . Take a tape measure and see what you get for distance from the gimbal bearing race to the mating surface of the bell housing. Then compare that to the mating surface of the outdrive to the beginning portion of the drive shaft.

A hard stop with 2" to go may be indicative of the drive shaft not going into the coupler. A hard stop with about 3/4" to go would be more indicative of the gimbal installation.

As to your question about the cooler. I usually keep my cooler (beer) at a safe distance from my work area in case I throw a tool or 2 out of frustration

 

[Scott06]

Are you locking it in forward by holding the prop ccw with a bungee cord so you cam turn it and the drive shaft splines to align the coupler and drive shaft ?

 

[Salvador0673]

I just broke the gasket. Trying to install again. I am going to get another one (45 mins drive). I used all the techniques that you guys gave me. And I was not able to install. Quick question, can I dismount the lower part of the sterndrive and just try the upper part as I think it will be more manageable and then I can install the lower part. Is there any problem I might face going this route?

 

[Bondo]

I just broke the gasket. Trying to install again. I am going to get another one (45 mins drive). I used all the techniques that you guys gave me. And I was not able to install. Quick question, can I dismount the lower part of the sterndrive and just try the upper part as I think it will be more manageable and then I can install the lower part. Is there any problem I might face going this route?

Ayuh,..... You can, But,.....

What I do, so that I'm not supportin' the 80 odd lbs is to put the skeg on a block of wood, 'n adjust the trailer jack, sos that the gimbal is aligned with the drive, then all I have to do is balance the drive, wiggle the u-joints, 'n push the drive home,....

 

[Salvador0673]

Again, I divided the stern drive to manage the upper part better, the same problem is the last tow inches. I used a rubber hammer to try to force it in but the stern spring back, I really do not know what else to do, what is the worst case scenario here? I even try to aligned the motor nothing works

 

[Salvador0673]

I have this idea, if I used bolt coupling to elongate the bolt and push the sterndrive into position with the nuts. What you think about that idea?

 

[H20Rat]

Forcing stuff means breaking it... Are you sure your shifter is lined up?

Separating the upper/lower makes it harder. The easiest is to do what bondo mentioned. Build your own stern drive holder out of scrap lumber, line it up, and then as you start to slide it in, rotate the prop slightly. (while also holding the shift lever so it doesn't kick out of gear) The splines don't self align, so very often it is the splines that are preventing it from going home.

 

[Salvador0673]

I put the sterndrive as one piece after unsuccessfully trying to install the upper half. I did build the stand with a dolly in the ground and try it as my last attempt( I copy the stand from utube). And it was impossible to insert the drive. The shift cable is aligned and the drive stop short of the shift lever engage with the upper hook. The drive stop just pass the ujoing ring. I feels like th splinter are not engaging. I put a flash light to check and they look fine I did insert a small stick inside about 1/4 inch and it came out with a black grease. I don't know if that is something to be concern?

 

[Salvador0673]

Also, can I lot of grase in the spline could cause the drive not to go in?

 

[Bt Doctur]

If the alignment iis correct, the drive will easily slip on .
That said ,review your work. I can have a measurement for you tomorrow from face of gimbal to edge of housing.

 

[Rick Stephens]

When you installed the gimbal bearing did you use the alignment bar with the driver that you have to drill the hole for? If so, and you get the alignment bar inserted not enough to be started into the coupler, when you start banging on the bar to drive the bearing it can quickly damage the coupler splines making them impossible to start the driveshaft.

 

[Salvador0673]

I think that's the

When you installed the gimbal bearing did you use the alignment bar with the driver that you have to drill the hole for? If so, and you get the alignment bar inserted not enough to be started into the coupler, when you start banging on the bar to drive the bearing it can quickly damage the coupler splines making them impossible to start the driveshaft.

I think that's what happened. That is the only explanation for the problem. I have checked and recheck the work many times over. How difficult is to change the coupler? Is it something that ca. Be done with the motor in the boat. I don't have the tools take a motor out or the space. Thank you.

 

[Salvador0673]

If the alignment iis correct, the drive will easily slip on .
That said ,review your work. I can have a measurement for you tomorrow from face of gimbal to edge of housing.

Thanks, that would help a lot in my last attempt to do this.

 

[Bt Doctur]

From the inner race to the housing ,just under 8 1/2 inches

 

[Alumarine]

If you removed the yoke assembly from the u-joint you could test the spline condition by trying to insert the yoke by itself.

 

[Salvador0673]

If you removed the yoke assembly from the u-joint you could test the spline condition by trying to insert the yoke by itself.

Yeah, I was thinking that. Is the harbor freight ujoint clamp good for this job?

 

[Salvador0673]

From the inner race to the housing ,just under 8 1/2 inches
View attachment 366484

Thanks, I just measure the space that is not going in that's 2.5 inches, therefore I think the spline is going in, bit is stopping. Midway. As the spline is about 3 inches long