Steering problem

[erh16]

I have a 2000 150 HP XR6 on a 1850 nitro fish and ski. The boat pulls real hard to the right when trimmed all the way down. It does get somewhat better up on plane and trimmed up. I had a guy tell me to adjust the fin above the prop. But I do not have a fin there. just a round aluminum disk with a through bolt out the top side. Should there be a fin there? If not what is my next trouble shooting step?

 

[bobkyle2]

Re: Steering problem

i have a fin on mine... and ive adjusted it everywhich way with no result... my mercury 150 does the same thing...pulls hard to the right ... when trimmed it does actually pretty good.... my old baja with a 200hp merc was the very same... i just figured it was a boat thing... hope someone schools on getting these monsters tracking right

 

[j_martin]

Re: Steering problem

Set up right on that boat, the trim tab would be an inch out of the lake at WOT. That's why you only have an anode zinc in it's place.

Why would you want to run it hard with the engine in deep? It not only cuts your performance, but forcing the forward keel into the lake sets you up for an accidental bat turn. Only trim it in enough at reduced speeds to prevent porpoising. I would guess that your boat, as normally set up, would be real crabby about that at anything under 35 or 40 mph.

If I take the 80 year old preacher fishing, and I need to run slow, I throw 150 lbs of sand bags up under the front pedestal so I can get it on plane without killing the geezer.

I did a couple of other things on mine. I had the prop shop weld in a slight torque tamer in the trailing edge of the skeg, and I installed NFB steering, so if I'm dogging along slow, I don't have to wrestle the steering.

On the schooling bit, these high performance bass boats are designed to go flat out, nose high, with reasonable comfort and safety. Most of the weight is in the back of the boat, the boat has a pad, and the engine is set back from the pad at least 6 inches. It's a no compromise balance to get the boat to run on the last couple of feet of hull and air out for speed while hauling about a half a ton of phat phishermen, tackle, fuel, and full livewells.

You can run them slower, but they don't handle like a Bayliner. Driving them is not like driving the family bus, more like driving a race car. Most of the time it's the driver that needs the schooling.

hope it helps
John

 

[bobkyle2]

Re: Steering problem

Why would you want to run it hard with the engine in deep? It not only cuts your performance, but forcing the forward keel into the lake sets you up for an accidental bat turn. Only trim it in enough at reduced speeds to prevent porpoising. I would guess that your boat, as normally set up, would be real crabby about that at anything under 35 or 40 mph.


John

becosue if i tried to plane with my engine trimmed it would just spin out.... to get it to drive straight it has to be trimmed a good ways

 

[j_martin]

Re: Steering problem

becosue if i tried to plane with my engine trimmed it would just spin out.... to get it to drive straight it has to be trimmed a good ways

Not sure what you mean. It's normal to have to tuck the engine all the way under to kick that heavy arse up on top for the hole shot, but as you pick up speed, you trim it out and the bow comes up and airs out. You can't just leave it in one spot and run it on a high performance boat.

You should be able to trim it out to where it starts to lose water pressure before the prop skips out. If you don't have a water pressure gauge, you're flirting with disaster. Most folks with a boat like that will run a prop that can pierce the surface a bit.

If the prop comes loose from the lake before you're near max trim, either you have the engine mounted too high, or the wrong prop.

hope it helps
john