Steering pin replacement

[Drivewayboater2]

I’m rebuilding my 1990 Alpha 1 Gen 1 outdrive. Before removal I noticed a bit of slop in the steering pin. I’m tearing it apart. Removed bushings and replacing seals. For git’s and shiggles I decided to put the steering pin in the gimble ring and tighten the bolts. Low and behold it tightened up solid and no more slop. Any chance the bolts could have loosened up over time?
Steering pin is in okay condition. Gimble ring doesnt seem to have much wear. Just curious if anyone else encountered this problem and just tightened up the bolts to the steering pin to get rid of the slop. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[stresspoint]

procedure is >> remove the bolts , clean any corrosion , test for movement in the pins , if the movement is minimal , replace the bolts preferably with new ones as they can stretch and snap (you don't want that) , tighten to spec using the specified thread lock.
if there is movement after this is done then the pins need replacing, sleeves put in the gimble ring or replacement gimble ring depending on how bad the movement is .

yes it is normal to take slack out with bolt tightening, "" however" it would be good practice to remove the bolts and clean them up first (possibly replace with new as they stretch , getting snapped stainless bolts out is not an easy job.

there is always some movement in the pins , it s usually owner discretion how much they are willing to be comfortable with.

 

[dubs283]

Torquing the u bolt/through bolts/nuts is part of routine maintenance. 55 lb/ft iirc

Once slop is noticed between the steering shaft and gimbal ring its a bit too late. You can tighten the nut/bolt assy but don't go beyond the torque spec as you can break the bolts

If it tightens up the slop and you're comfortable with it feel free to run it but it will most likely fail at some point

If you have it all apart it's better to replace any/all faulty components. No sense in doing all the labor to reinstall used parts

 

[Drivewayboater2]

procedure is >> remove the bolts , clean any corrosion , test for movement in the pins , if the movement is minimal , replace the bolts preferably with new ones as they can stretch and snap (you don't want that) , tighten to spec using the specified thread lock.
if there is movement after this is done then the pins need replacing, sleeves put in the gimble ring or replacement gimble ring depending on how bad the movement is .

yes it is normal to take slack out with bolt tightening, "" however" it would be good practice to remove the bolts and clean them up first (possibly replace with new as they stretch , getting snapped stainless bolts out is not an easy job.

there is always some movement in the pins , it s usually owner discretion how much they are willing to be comfortable with.

Thanks for the reply. I’ll double check the spec with my torque wrench.

 

[Drivewayboater2]

Okay here’s an update. Put the steering pin in torqued to only 20 foot pounds ( not the spec 55) and the slop when away.
next question is whether or not to replace the pin itself. Cleaned it up a bit.
here‘s a couple pics of what I have.













looking at the range of pricing on pins on line I realize there’s junk and the real deal. Does the above part look serviceable? Any help is appreciated.

 

[04fxdwgi25]

I would venture to say that pin is junk / a paperweight. You can clean it all you want, but it will still be junk. The bushing / seal surface is all pitted and will leak water into bushing area. This is obvious from the pictures.

Get a good, high quality S/S one, new seals and new bushings and be done with it.

PS: Just did all this on my B3 this past winter and is like nite and day from what it was before.

 

[todhunter]

Definitely time for a new pin. Agree with above...spring for the SS one.

 

[Drivewayboater2]

Thanks all!
new one arrived Thursday of this week. Seals and bushings as well.

 

[Bt Doctur]

add the missing grease fitting too
`ll locate the instruction but basically you need the SS grease fitting, 1/4 x 28 tap.#3 drill bit (I think) drill with the #3 3/8ths deep, switch to a 1/16 or 1/8 bit . Now drill slowly ,you will see aluminum , then brass, then steel STOP. Tap for the fitting, insert fitting and grease. You use a 5/16 hex nut for the height.
Manuals should still be on the net, just look. Transom repair kit is about 200 or so. main bellow, shift bellow, exaust bellow, gimbal bearing, water inlet hose although the newest hose from mercruiser is a molded hose avail separtately , a lot easier too. U joints as a separate item

 

[Drivewayboater2]

Lucky for me the grease fitting is already there

 

[kcassells]

I'm not sure any of these are the correct part. I've been having very good luck with ebay parts for my engine. Alot are original parts.

https://www.amazon.com/Housing-Steering-Mercruiser-Replaces-866718A01/dp/B08CHC5DL9/ref=sr_1_3?crid=7QBBHR230PS8&keywords=1990+Alpha+1+Gen+1+outdrive+steering+pin&qid=1694962654&sprefix=1990+alpha+1+gen+1+outdrive+steering+pin%2Caps%2C333&sr=8-3

Ebay looks good

Steering Shaft Pin for 1983-1990 MerCruiser R-MR-Alpha 1 One 6225577-0F386995 | eBay

Specs - Overall Shaft Length: 4 1/2". Shaft Material: 304 stainless steel. Refer to images 2 & 3 for more information. Trust us, we get it. To best assist you, we will need as much of the following information as possible, if applicable, to help you find the product you are looking for.

www.ebay.com

Stainless Steel Steering Swivel Shaft Pin Upper Gimbal MerCruiser Alpha Bravo | eBay

Gimbal Shaft Bushing (Large) 23-98371. Gimbal Shaft Bushing (Small) 23-98356. Steering Shaft Seal 26-8M2005029. 304 Stainless Steel (Pin). This part has undergone a rigorous inspection to ensure high quality.

www.ebay.com

 

[Scott06]

Would get the steering pin from nuwave marine. you consistently see good comments about this part.

OEM (7 degree risers) MerCruiser V6/V8 "Dry Joint" Exhaust Riser 3" Spacer Kit (7 degree risers) (std cooling)

OEM Mercruiser DRY JOINT 3 inch riser kit for V6 and V8 engines with (7 degree risers)864309T02 (std cooling) Will work with Dry Joint Exhaust only Gaskets, 3 inch spacers and mounting hardware

nuwavemarine.com

 

[kcassells]

I def. understand relying on well known marine vendors. The issue I find is that the pricing is usually so gouged out of proportion.
Buy 3
Same part, returnable vs. $39.00 vs. $100.00 ?

98230A1 For Mercruiser Stainless Steel Upper Steering Swivel Shaft Pin | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 98230A1 For Mercruiser Stainless Steel Upper Steering Swivel Shaft Pin at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Scott06]

I def. understand relying on well known marine vendors. The issue I find is that the pricing is usually so gouged out of proportion.
Buy 3
Same part, returnable vs. $39.00 vs. $100.00 ?

98230A1 For Mercruiser Stainless Steel Upper Steering Swivel Shaft Pin | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 98230A1 For Mercruiser Stainless Steel Upper Steering Swivel Shaft Pin at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Have you priced the oem part? Thats gouging.

its not the same part. There are a couple price brackets you will see for these $29-39 , around $100 like this, and the oem which is like $300

Its your boat Your call.

 

[kcassells]

Have you priced the oem part? Thats gouging.

its not the same part. There are a couple price brackets you will see for these $29-39 , around $100 like this, and the oem which is like $300

Its your boat Your call.

YUP. Age is usually the culprit thats sitting on a shelf for 20 years not the duplicated returnable part. JMHO. Brand new and built to specs.
You're paying for something that's been sitting around for 20 years. Tooling has since changed alot from yesteryears.

 

[04fxdwgi25]

Don't forget the cheaper ones are usually lower grade knock offs from overseas with inferior grade of S/S and less that perfect machining specs / tolerances and dimensions. May not have problems w/ the cheapo one, but then again, it may fail pretty quickly.

The S/S grade (toughness and corrosion resistance) is normally the determining factor.

I used the best grade one I could find and have zero problems with it

But, in a nutshell, it's your boat / budget, so decision is strictly yours to make for what works best for you. After all, us that comment on this stuff are great at spending other people's (OP's) money

 

[kcassells]

I think...Everyone gits it.