Steering cable issue

[dave8311]

I have a later model control valve hooked to an alpha one gen 2.

Need to get the cable out of the tube, but the coupler nut is fused or corroded or otherwise frozen to the cable.

Can I use heat on that without damaging the cable?

I tried a vise grip on the metal portion of the cable, next to the nut, but I'm worried about crushing it in that area.

Otherwise I'll have to cut the cable and replace with a new one and a helm while I'm at it. Much more money than just cleaning the tube.

 

[Bondo]

I have a later model control valve hooked to an alpha one gen 2.

Need to get the cable out of the tube, but the coupler nut is fused or corroded or otherwise frozen to the cable.

Can I use heat on that without damaging the cable?

I tried a vise grip on the metal portion of the cable, next to the nut, but I'm worried about crushing it in that area.

Otherwise I'll have to cut the cable and replace with a new one and a helm while I'm at it. Much more money than just cleaning the tube.

Ayuh,..... You can try it, but don't heat it to hot, 'n be careful you don't catch the boat on fire,.....
Isn't there a set of wrench flats on the tube, for holdin' it, while you turn the nut,..??

 

[dave8311]

Yes, a wrench on the flats and one on the coupler nut. Turning the coupler nut also turns the cable as they are fused together. The nut will not spin on the cable.

It's like the nut and the cable are one piece.

 

[Bondo]

Yes, a wrench on the flats and one on the coupler nut. Turning the coupler nut also turns the cable as they are fused together. The nut will not spin on the cable.

It's like the nut and the cable are one piece.

Ayuh,.... But they're not,.... Have you tried penetrating oil, 'n tapping it with a hammer,..??

 

[flashback]

PB blaster? Maybe you can turn the tube instead. I'm just guessing cause I never been there..

 

[dave8311]

Yes, PB Blaster, Kroil, hammer and even tried vinegar.

If I turn the tube the nut and cable rotate as one.

If you can imagine a new cable with the coupler nut welded to the cable housing, that's what it's like. Those two pieces need to rotate separately. Similar to a metal fuel line fitting that won't spin on the line, it would be impossible to remove from carb or pump without rotating the line. If it's attached at both ends, that's not happening.

If I unhooked it from the helm end and allow the whole cable to turn it would come off that way, but reinstalling it would be problematic, as the coupling nut needs to be tight and the wrench flats need to be vertical. That would probably work if I could get it off the helm while still threaded onto the tube

If I could unscrew the tube from the assembly, it might come off that way, but I'm not sure how to remove it, and I'm not sure I could get the cable back on, tightened with the wrench flats vertical.

The coupler nut needs to spin freely and I think the only solution is going to be a new cable

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... Sounds like it was put on, way to tight, 'n then corroded,.....

Don't have an answer for ya, but, yes, the nut has to rotate free of the cable housing,......
When you put it back together, slather it with perfect seal(form-a-gasket #3), 'n just snug it tight,....

 

[dave8311]

Ok, got the cable off, but now I'm stumped.

Cleaned out the tube, but it really wasn't bad. Cable pulled out easily, but I went ahead and ran a cleaning brush through it anyway.

When unhooked from the steering arm the cable moves freely. The outdrive moves freely, the actuator valve works manually.

When attached, the cable will only move the actuator a small amount, not enough to cause the actuator to push in or pull out. Just moves it a small amount. If I help it by pushing or pulling on the cable housing the outdrive moves like it should.

I remember reading somewhere that someone had the same problem, and the fix was the inner steering cable was too long for the cable housing, though I don't know how that could be.

Any thoughts?

The helm has what I would consider to be a little too much slop in it. So, if anyone thinks that might be the problem, I'm leaning towards that myself. It's just very hard to get to the helm to change it out. And I really don't like throwing parts at it, trying to fix it.

 

[Scott Danforth]

That small amount is the pilot section of the actuator

Are you chasing slop in the helm which requires a new helm and cable

Or are you chasing V-hull wander at low speeds (all single engine V-hulls suffer this)

 

[dave8311]

I'm chasing a lack of power steering. All the parts seem to be working yet I have zero steering assist. Takes two arms to steer the boat. My wife cannot steer it.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Pressure test your pump. Should be 1200 psi

 

[dave8311]

If I operate the actuator manually the outdrive swings right and left, quickly and without any sense of lack of pressure. If I hold it in full lock for a second or two it tries to stall the motor. Would those things happen if the pressure was low?

 

[04fxdwgi25]

If I operate the actuator manually the outdrive swings right and left, quickly and without any sense of lack of pressure. If I hold it in full lock for a second or two it tries to stall the motor. Would those things happen if the pressure was low?

Following this, myself, as have seen this a few times and have not seen a resolution.

 

[dave8311]

If I operate the actuator manually the outdrive swings right and left, quickly and without any sense of lack of pressure. If I hold it in full lock for a second or two it tries to stall the motor. Would those things happen if the pressure was low?

Following this, myself, as have seen this a few times and have not seen a resolution.

Yes, very frustrating. All of my research has turned up many people with the same problem, posted on many forums besides this, and none come back afterwards with the solution. A few said they just sold the boat and a few said they converted to full hydraulic. Neither of those is a good solution for a cheap old boat and person like me.