Steel Caps or Bearing Buddys?

[IDFISHER]

My boat trailer has generic steel caps (no rubber plug). I'm committed to replacing the rear seal and repacking with fresh grease every year. With that said, is it worth swapping them out for bearing buddys? I put less than 300 miles per year on the trailer and dunk it 10-15 times in fresh water.

 

[Scott Danforth]

My boat trailer has generic steel caps (no rubber plug). I'm committed to replacing the rear seal and repacking with fresh grease every year. With that said, is it worth swapping them out for bearing buddys? I put less than 300 miles per year on the trailer and dunk it 10-15 times in fresh water.

only you can determine if its worth it.

steel caps are $3 a pair, bearing buddies are $30 a pair.

 

[JimS123]

I had 4 trailers. One was a tandem. I did as you did, pull them, grease, new rear seals, etc. every year. Then, I put those expensive buddies on all 10 wheels. Then I got lazy.

A squirt every Fall to be sure the spring was in tension. No other maintenance. Got even lazier.

Ten years later I decided to pull them all apart. Boy was I mad. The bearings were perfect, no water intrusion and it didn't need to be done.

Buddies are expensive, and not cost effective. But my time savings is priceless.

 

[Earl Cordova]

I think buddy bearings are worth it.
Every now and then you get a bad seal.
Without the bearing buddy you may not know about it until the bearing fails.

 

[JASinIL2006]

I have Bearing Buddies and I like them a lot. I put quite a few miles on my trailer every summer and they have always served me well.

However, if I planned to repack bearings and replace seals annually while driving less than 300 miles, I would be hard-pressed to justify the expense.

 

[mike_i]

I like bearing buddies. Considering the cost of your boat and trailer the cost of the buddies is irrelevant.

 

[dingbat]

Had ss bearing buddies (SW) on my last tandem. Averaged 6,000 - 7,000 miles per season.
The only real issue I had was loosing them. Lost one or two a season at $20 a pop. Adds up in a hurry, not to mention the hassle of pulling up to the ramp and finding a BB missing at 5:15 in the morning. Ended up drilling and tapping the hubs to keep them on.

Much prefer my current EZ lube setup for ease of use and maintenance.

 

[JimS123]

Much prefer my current EZ lube setup for ease of use and maintenance.

I agree. Two of my current trailers are EZ Lube, but the other 2 are not. So, on those I keep BBs.

With all the force it takes to install them, and the fact that I have never lost one after 25+ years, I just wonder why some fall off.

BTW, I only have used BB Brand, not the knockoffs.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I have lost 3 BBs over the years

I now carry a spare and wont ever loose another

 

[dingbat]

I have lost 3 BBs over the years

I now carry a spare and wont ever loose another

Me too….have two brand new ones from back in the day

 

[dingbat]

I agree. Two of my current trailers are EZ Lube, but the other 2 are not. So, on those I keep BBs.

With all the force it takes to install them, and the fact that I have never lost one after 25+ years, I just wonder why some fall off.

BTW, I only have used BB Brand, not the knockoffs.

Heard all kind of theories over the years.

Personally, I think it’s a combination of Stainless being a much softer than steel with a 60% higher rate of thermal expansion.

 

[Stinnett21]

If you're the type that even with BBs you will re-pack anyway, stick with the caps. Caps are light thin metal that does not protrude outward thus they tend to stay attached. BBs do not like to be removed. Every time you do so it slops our the hub bore and you will start loosing them. If you go with BBs, attach once and leave them.

 

[ahicks]

Another vote for bearing buddies.

 

[TyeeMan]

BBs are great, but there are two very key things to successful use and years of not having to repack bearings.
A. Don't over grease the BB and compromise the grease seal.
B. A high quality grease seal is paramount. Double lip with spring reinforcement is the only way to go. Anything less and the seal won't last.

A high quality seal should be use in all cases, even without BBs.

 

[Searay205]

I sold on buddy bearings if hub is 100% full (let flames begin). the bearing buddies have a relief port, if you pump to much its squirts out. I loathe taking a hub apart and finding perfect grease and bearings, so i dont take them apart anymore... DO NOT BUY AFTERMARKET KNOCK OFF BRAND, just eat lunch at home 1 time and it will make for difference in buddy bearing vs a different make.

 

[Searay205]

Oh one thin wrap your cotter pin around the spindle vs across the end. I have some cotter pins rub the zerk nut on the bearing buddy if it was ever low on grease.

 

[JimS123]

I sold on buddy bearings if hub is 100% full (let flames begin). the bearing buddies have a relief port, if you pump to much its squirts out. I loathe taking a hub apart and finding perfect grease and bearings, so i dont take them apart anymore... DO NOT BUY AFTERMARKET KNOCK OFF BRAND, just eat lunch at home 1 time and it will make for difference in buddy bearing vs a different make.

Very true about needing the hub FULL.

That hole works in theory, but the rear seal will blow out before the excess grease has a chance to get out the little hole. (ask me how I know....LOL) Regardless, greasing until the spring JUST starts to move and all will be good.

You are right about the aftermarket ones.

 

[KM7]

If you're the type that even with BBs you will re-pack anyway, stick with the caps. Caps are light thin metal that does not protrude outward thus they tend to stay attached. BBs do not like to be removed. Every time you do so it slops our the hub bore and you will start loosing them. If you go with BBs, attach once and leave them.

I had that happen, I lost one. I need to replace it. How do I make sure that I don't lose the new one.?