static timing

fisheymikey

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Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
I have a lot of different statements. can someone clarify please the following...

i removed spark plugs and grounded them, removed the propeller, jumped the trigger safety.

i want the know the following...there is 3 marks.. from left to right is it 32-30-28 that is what im assuming.

if so i am almost to the end of the adjusting screw on the flywheel and i am at 30 degrees. im aware im suppose to be at 32 if it is the one furthest to the left at WOT.

am i doing something wrong

thanks

mike
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: static timing

Control handle MUST be in wide open throttle. If you are at the end of the adjusting screw, you are doing something wrong. The plastic blocks USUALLY are somewhere near 1/2 inch apart. See the video: Carb and timing tutorial.

Double check that top dead center is indeed top dead center. If the flywheel key has broken, the flywheel may be positioned incorrectly.
 

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
Re: static timing

Control handle MUST be in wide open throttle. If you are at the end of the adjusting screw, you are doing something wrong. The plastic blocks USUALLY are somewhere near 1/2 inch apart. See the video: Carb and timing tutorial.

Double check that top dead center is indeed top dead center. If the flywheel key has broken, the flywheel may be positioned incorrectly.

indeed i am at wide open throttle.

is it supposed to be at 28-30-32 with static?
 

Jiggz

Captain
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Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
Re: static timing

I'm not sure what year and model is your engine but typically for static timing the setting is 32 BTDC while the Dynamic setting is at 30 BTDC
 

fisheymikey

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Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
Re: static timing

I'm not sure what year and model is your engine but typically for static timing the setting is 32 BTDC while the Dynamic setting is at 30 BTDC

well that is why I get confused.

I have a 125 force 1988.

above the tutorial says 28 then 30 now I get 32.

I know everyone wants to help but I really need a sure answer for my engine for STATIC timing.

Please help

mike
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
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May 7, 2008
Messages
18,037
Re: static timing

Manual says: 32/30/28 the 4th mark about 3 inches to the right is for finding top dead center.
To do static timing. The prop off,the throttle all the way forward.Plugs out plug wires grounded.
The manual says to time it to 28d to obtain 30d at wot.
If your not getting the reach? You might have to undo the linkage and start again??
 

foodfisher

Captain
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Feb 18, 2009
Messages
3,756
Re: static timing

A sure answer follows. Sitting here with the OEM manual in my lap. Exactly as JerryJerry says. Be doubly sure the plugs or plug wires are grounded. Edit: I'm assuming that the word static means at cranking speed. The words static and dynamic are not used in the manual. Cranking speed and actual WOT rpms (engine running) is the verbage used.
 

tater76

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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May 7, 2010
Messages
712
Re: static timing

Static=cranking speed. Set static timing to 28 like Jerry says.
 

Jiggz

Captain
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Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
Re: static timing

well that is why I get confused.

I have a 125 force 1988.

above the tutorial says 28 then 30 now I get 32.

I know everyone wants to help but I really need a sure answer for my engine for STATIC timing.

Please help

mike

Didn't mean to confuse you but here's a copy of the tune up specs. In fact, this spec even mentions 34 BTDC for static timing with 32 BTDC for dynamic (for 125HP engines). Remember these timing data are "MAXIMUM" which means you can go below them a degree or two. I have mine ('89-125HP) at 32 static which is 2 degree below the maximum allowed. Now as for the terms static and dynamic, you'll notice these are not made up terms but are the real technical terms as written in the spec sheet. Also note the spark plug types, I have switched from the UL18V to BUHW instead of the BUHX and the engine seems to ran a little smoother. Well hope this helps.
Force 1984-99 Tune Up Specs.jpg
 

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
Re: static timing

I dont know what to do anymore

Evryone seems very credible thus my dilema

Im concern in melting a piston previously stated

So what do i do? Diffent manuals saydifferent things

Please some light on this

So far am leaning towards 28 but say something of im gonna harm the engine

Not for anything but im going vacation with the kids dont want something going wrong and spoile their
Vacation

But morever i wont able to get to 34 static i tried to get 32 and i was at the end of the srew also i would be 1 inch between both plastic blocks.

Thanks
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: static timing

LOOK: This is the internet. You WILL get too much information. Some Mercury Force engines with Mercury ignitions were set to 34 degrees before top dead center at wide open throttle. BUT, THAT IS NOT YOUR'S!

SET your damn engine to 28 degrees advance at wide open throttle at cranking speed and be done with it. At this timing advance, you are certain to be safe and any MINIMAL difference in performance will not be noticed.

IF you are at the end of the screw travel at 32 degrees, then your link and sync is incorrect. Start by setting everything to baseline and then time from there. (you can not get to where you are going unless you know where you are!) Set the idle stop screw to about the center of its travel. Then set the carb cam as per tutorial. Then, remove both plastic blocks and screw them all the way onto the screw so they are centered, Now open them to about 1/2 inch apart. NOW try to set the timing.
 

fisheymikey

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 30, 2012
Messages
450
Re: static timing

LOOK: This is the internet. You WILL get too much information. Some Mercury Force engines with Mercury ignitions were set to 34 degrees before top dead center at wide open throttle. BUT, THAT IS NOT YOUR'S!

SET your damn engine to 28 degrees advance at wide open throttle at cranking speed and be done with it. At this timing advance, you are certain to be safe and any MINIMAL difference in performance will not be noticed.

IF you are at the end of the screw travel at 32 degrees, then your link and sync is incorrect. Start by setting everything to baseline and then time from there. (you can not get to where you are going unless you know where you are!) Set the idle stop screw to about the center of its travel. Then set the carb cam as per tutorial. Then, remove both plastic blocks and screw them all the way onto the screw so they are centered, Now open them to about 1/2 inch apart. NOW try to set the timing.

thank you frank!!!

you seam in your video very passive but on the web your a tiger....lol

I will redo the link and sink procedure maybe I messed up somewhere.

thanks

mike
 
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