Starting Problems

frcdonsmith

Cadet
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
10
I have a 2000 Johnson 130 oceanpro. I have replaced both batteries in the last 4 month's. After boat sits for 7-14 days and I try to run on hose, the starter acts like it's starved of power and will it will not engage flywheel and fully turn motor over. I have cleaned all terminals from front to rear. After CHARGING batteries for 5- 10 minutes it cranks and runs fine. Both batteries have the same cranking amps or more than the one's replaced. I have had both new batteries tested and they check out fine.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Starting Problems

90% of starter problems are bad connections. remove and clean both ends of the battery cables, so that they are shiney, also the cable from the solenoid to starter. check for nicks in the cables. and make sure the connectors are on the wire good. the cable tend to corrode from the inside out, if nicked, corroded wires, and connections, heat up and cause resistance to the follow of electricity, thus the starter doesn't get enough. you can also take jumper cable pos battery post to large post on starter. with a good connection, the engine should spin. then if the starter is good clean everything and retest. then trouble shoot solenoid. starters can be rebuit at a starter/alternator shop, much cheaper than a new one.

also have the battery load tested at the auto parts store, free, i've had new batteries go bad
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: Starting Problems

You almost definitely have something drawing power while the boat is not in use. You could isolate the drain fairly easily. Generally, battery switches are a safer way to go, in case I forget and leave the radio on or something similar.

The only thing that I have wired directly to the battery side of my switches are the pumps, so that when I turn the switches to off, everything else is disconnected.

If you have switches, you could still have a voltage leak from the battery to the deck for example, which is reason enough to use battery boxes.
 

frcdonsmith

Cadet
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
10
Re: Starting Problems

I have cleaned all wire connections including wire from solenoid. The only connections not cleaned were wires on solenoid. I will clean these next. I have a box under center console for batteries. Should I set it to off after each use. Also I pulled batteries this morning after sitting one week and charger shows that they are fully charged, but I will take them to auto parts while out of oat and have them tested. Will look at all connections again.
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: Starting Problems

I think ezeke is on the right trail here.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Starting Problems

sure sounds like it, or the cable from the console to motor are not large enough. also how old are they, could be corroding from inside out. definately turn the off, and put a battery maintainer on them.
 

frcdonsmith

Cadet
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
10
Re: Starting Problems

Boat is a 1996 MAKO, Motor 2000, I bought the boat last year from a dealer. Ran great all season until I was Fishing in nov. and had a problem cranking motor. I had corrosion on wire from solenoid to starter and cleaned terminal. It ran fine until it got cold and I stopped fishing. Motor was added to boat, wires from motor to an open area on right corner of boat Look new. The wires through hull to center console I am guessing are the original cables.
 

tashasdaddy

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Nov 11, 2005
Messages
51,019
Re: Starting Problems

so you are saying you have a junction box, in the stern of the boat. battery cables do not run direct to the motor from the battery. any corrosion, can cause an arc, thus disrupting the corroision, then they possibly will work but will eventually fail.
 

Lakester

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Nov 17, 2007
Messages
428
Re: Starting Problems

After CHARGING batteries for 5- 10 minutes it cranks and runs fine.

hello,

i cant tell u what is wrong, but i can tell u what i would do... next... based on ur comment here.

if it were my boat... i would disct the grounds to my batteries. before i tried that i would do test #1: as currently configured, 10-14 days later from last start, i would read the batt's condition via a voltmeter. :) gosh, i like mine. then i would:

do test #2. for that i would disct batts after last run. then read the batts condition with vm before i put terminals back on and before any charging etc. do they read the same? as in test #1.

then with this info, i would put terminals on and before start, i would read batts condition. and if u have to charge for a few mins i would then read again. and note volts.

this info may help u determine what is going on. i would want to know why 2 HD high amp batts dont start my engines... but with a charge for 10 mins or so it will. 10 mins should not provide that much additional charge to batts.

additionally, i would want to know if there is any draw thru system with terminals on.

u say per above, so do u crank with charger on or with it disc?

well, that is where i would hunt. good luck.

regards
lakester :cool:
 

ezeke

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 19, 2003
Messages
12,532
Re: Starting Problems

I was thinking about the corrosion you mentioned. You might want to do a voltage drop test if you have a voltmeter and someone to hit the starter for you.

Voltage Drop Test


When there is resistance in a circuit, you can find it by touch (heat), or voltage drop.

So, put your positive voltmeter lead on the battery positive terminal and the voltmeter negative lead on the large incoming solenoid/battery terminal post and hit the starter switch. If the voltage meter reads more than .3 volts, the battery cable is bad, corroded or has a bad connection.

Next, connect the voltmeter negative lead to the outgoing large solenoid post and the positive voltmeter lead to the incoming large solenoid post while cranking the starter briefly. If the voltmeter reads greater than .2 volts, the solenoid is bad, corroded or has a bad connection.

Next, connect the positive voltmeter lead to the outgoing large solenoid post and the negative voltmeter lead to the starter positive post and hit the starter switch. A reading of over .2 volts indicates a bad wire between the solenoid and the starter.

Lastly, connect the negative battery post to the negative voltmeter lead and the positive voltmeter lead to the engine block and crank the engine. A reading of greater than .3 volts indicates a bad negative cable, corrosion or a bad cable connection.

The idea is that normally when you put both leads of a voltmeter on the same side of a circuit you should get no reading. If you have a reading, more voltage is passing through the voltmeter than through the circuit.
 

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frcdonsmith

Cadet
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
10
Re: Starting Problems

Thanks, I will get some help and try voltage drop test. I took starter off today and had it tested while I had batteries loaded to be checked by local auto parts store. Starter is fine and both batteries (after no charge for a week) were fully charged. Yes, Junction box is under center console. Wiring runs from batteries to junction box, from junction box to two bolts in storage comp on back right side of boat, and two new wire from there too the motor.
 

HighTrim

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
10,486
Re: Starting Problems

Im sure then that you will find your issue using the drop technique Ezeke stated. If the wires are nicked, cut, poor insulation, or they crunch when flexed, they are surely shot. Also dont just look at those connections, you have to physically take them off and shine them up, then re tighten.

Connect a jumper cable to the NEG battery terminal and a good ground (bare bolt head or bracket) on the engine. Now connect a single jumper cable between the POS battery terminal and directly to the large terminal on the starter. If the starter now goes ok, you still have a negative battery cable problem or the solenoid is bad.

In any event, a battery switch is still a wise investment.

battery_switches_1.gif
 

frcdonsmith

Cadet
Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
10
Re: Starting Problems

I had a 3 inch section in ground wire from engine that was extremely corroded inside cable causing voltage drop. Cut off and replaced connector and all is well. I do plan to buy new wires to run full length. Just wanted to THANK everybody that responded with all the helpfull information.
 
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