Starter wont stop cranking

wrench 3

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OEM part number is 87-88107A5. If you can come up with a Sierra MP52000 the wiring colors should match up and you just have to cut the wires off of your old switch and splice them onto the wires on the new switch.
 

aMeyers11

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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/252943578349

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/173319368735

Alright thank you for the help! I appreciate it. I found these 2 on ebay. One with the wires already attached and one with terminals. I'm not quite sure how you attach the wires to the terminal, so wouldnt it be easier to just splice them using the switch with wires? I'm just not sure how I could splice the wires as it seems there are 2 wires on each terminal? So it would be 2 controller wires to 1 switch wire. Could I not use crimp butt connectors then? Im sorry I'm not super knowledgable with electrical.
 

merc850

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Unsolder the wires, check for shorts (could be the reason the starter keeps going) then solder the wires onto the new switch.
Soldering is better than connectors.
 

The Force power

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Unsolder the wires, check for shorts (could be the reason the starter keeps going) then solder the wires onto the new switch.
Soldering is better than connectors.

As Merc850 already said

When you get the switch that requires soldering to the terminals; do not use a mini propane torch! but an electric soldering iron .
the torch gives to much heat to the terminals (it may not be visual on the outside) and cause premature failure to switch.
also when un-solder the wires and before soldering them on the new switch; clean the wires and apply pre-solder with flux.

DO ONE wire terminal at the time to keep it simple

DID YOU actually verified if it is the switch & not in the wiring?
 

merc850

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Yes - 50 watt electronics sized soldering iron and thin solder with flux used for electronics work.
 

wrench 3

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The Sierra Marine switch number that I gave you has the extra wires already attached and comes with butt connectors to attach them. Personally I'd use uninsulated crimp connectors and double wall shrink tubing to seal them though.
 

aMeyers11

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Sorry for late reply, thanks for the help and info everyone! So I never ended up testing the switch to br completely honest. I really have a feeling it could be in the wiring to the switch just as much as the switch. It is really looks like a mess and I see some exposed wires. I really have no experience with soldering(I know I really should). So I purchased the switch with the potted wires on ebay. I plan to just cut the existing wires before the switch. And crimp and heatshrink them to the new switch? Do you guys think this would work? I know it's not as good as soldering. I plan to clean up the old switch and keep it on hand. I actually have another set of controls missing the switch, but I dont think it has push to choke. Thanks again for the help everyone. Much appreciated
 

The Force power

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yes you can use the switch with the wires already attached & that will work; providing the problem is not in the wiring!!!
 

aMeyers11

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Alright, Thanks for the advice. I will post the results when the switch comes
 

wrench 3

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If you have to put two wires into the same end of a crimp connector put a very small amount of silicone sealer or liquid electrical tape between the wires before shrink tubing them. This will keep moisture out.
 

aMeyers11

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Alright, update: I got the new switch installed. I used butt connectors and heat shrink. Was a bit of a pain in a tight space and the switch is a bit too big and it pushes the plastic casing outwards, so in order to cover the gap in the back plate I just used duct tape. Not the end of the world.....anyways I do have good news: the starter continuously cranking problem is no more! Success! So the problem was either the connection to the old witch or the switch itself....... I tried to get the motor started tonight and found that the electric choke isnt functioning. I'm not sure if it worked before, so I'm going to test with a multimeter. Does that work regaurdless of key position? Beyond that issue I couldnt get the motor to start for more than a couple seconds. The carb does leak a little gas. Seems to be flooding too? After letting it sit for a while it would sputter. But after continuing for several tries in a row I would get nothing. And there was some fuel coming out of the prop. Lots of smoke too. Longest it ran rough was proabably like 4 seconds. Is there an idle adjustment screw or something? Could be timing since I replaced the flywheel? Inconsistant spark could be possible. Either way choke(manual) didnt seem to make a difference? Also tank was vented, it was primed, new fuel filter, and spark plugs. I know the best would be to just go ahead and do a carb rebuild as fuel is likely the problem. Was just hoping to get it running somewhat before having to dig into it. I know this should proabably be another thread post but thanks everyone for all of the help. My problem was fixed!!!
 

The Force power

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If you wired it up right, the Choke should only work in the ON/RUN + START position
does the switch have the push-in function?

For your Next issue; maybe start a new post
 

aMeyers11

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I'm going to test the choke solenoid with multimeter and see if it's getting any voltage next time I get the chance. And yes the switch has push to choke feature. I'll report back with what I find. Thanks!
 
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