Starter mounting bracket stud in front mount broken out casting

[Webekin]

E25TECCA 25hp electric start unit, mounted on a 16 foot boat purchased for my Grandson to duck hunt with. Bought at auction, "starting running good used boat", visited with previous owner after the auction, watch video of boat on lake. Long story, home lower in tub of water, starter spins up but slips on the fly wheel.
Determine that the front mounting bracket of the starter has been drilled out, cause the front mount, stud has broken in the casting and does not maintain a proper alignment of the starter gear and flywheel.
I have tried to repair the stud using high temp epoxy, covered with regular gray epoxy. Broke on the first test turn of the key.

Any ideas for a quality repair of the stud?
When drilled out larger no doubt weakened the mounting area, causing the casting to break out.

Can I remove the unit, lay on it's back face up, and melt aluminum around a replacement stud the proper size?
Thoughts, ideas? Does the story make sense?
Webekin

 

[Webekin]

Stud # 3, part number 0308354 Evinrude.
I would replace the 0396194 - CYL. & Crankcase ASSY. if I could find a used replacement. Affordable. I have 3 35hp Evinrudes, and Johnson units but can't see the parts interchanging.
Webekin

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Not completely understanding you but from what you said only two things can happen. They broke the stud in the intake area (drill out the stud) or that starter bracket is messed up. (Have it welded)

I'm I missing something?

You can't "glue" any of that stuff.

 

[Webekin]

I should post a picture, the bracket has damage, + previous owner drilled out the bracket hole, to 1/4 20bolt size. And the mounting stud was removed, drilled/tapped to 1/4 20, thus weakening the area, and broke open the casting. (crankcase). Considering rebuilding damaged area with aluminum brazing? Otherwise will need to find replacement crank case. Webekin

 

[kbait]

I assume your outboard has no recoil start. If you install one, the recoil’s front port side mounting bolt attaches to starter bracket, stabilizing the starter so it will function, and you’ll have recoil backup. Get a hood from a recoil start motor and off you go!

 

[tphoyt]

In my experience the aluminum brazing rods can and do work in some cases but in a large casting like that you will need more heat than a propane torch can deliver. The last time I tried this I was out of acteylene and had to use to Mapp gas torches and it just barely did the trick. You would be better off with a proper weld if that’s what you have to do.

 

[Webekin]

Glue, = J B Weld.
Used high temp 2 part JB weld, with overlay of regular JB weld.
Best adhesion was the regular JB weld, not impressed with the high temp JB weld. Webekin

 

[saltchuckmatt]

2 things, in a similar situation my buddy dripped some aluminum in there with his tig welder and tapped it out for me and I've had that same stud fall out before and the starter still performed well.

Pretty sure you might have more than one thing going on.

JB weld is not going to work.

 

[Webekin]

I assume your outboard has no recoil start. If you install one, the recoil’s front port side mounting bolt attaches to starter bracket, stabilizing the starter so it will function, and you’ll have recoil backup. Get a hood from a recoil start motor and off you go!

Like that idea, recoil starter, recoil hood, and good to go. Sounds simple, thanks, Webekin

 

[Webekin]

2 things, in a similar situation my buddy dripped some aluminum in there with his tig welder and tapped it out for me and I've had that same stud fall out before and the starter still performed well.

Pretty sure you might have more than one thing going on.

JB weld is not going to work.

I have another starter, with a better starter gear, I will install it and see if it will work with only 2 bolts to hold in place. Thanks, Webekin

 

[racerone]

And why would the 35 HP blocks not interchange / fit ?

 

[Webekin]

I have another starter, with a better starter gear, I will install it and see if it will work with only 2 bolts to hold in place. Thanks, Webekin

And why would the 35 HP blocks not interchange / fit ?

I think they might, but the part numbers are different when looking at the drawings. Webekin.

 

[racerone]

I get phone calls on occasion.----Folks looking for parts.-----They often say " thank you for your help / knowledge "------The difference between a 25 HP and 35 HP block may well be port position.---That gives it a different part #.----But it will fit in most cases.

 

[Webekin]

I get phone calls on occasion.----Folks looking for parts.-----They often say " thank you for your help / knowledge "------The difference between a 25 HP and 35 HP block may well be port position.---That gives it a different part #.----But it will fit in most cases.

Excellent info, thank you very much.

 

[Webekin]

Good news! First thank you to everyone that responded to my issue, all are appreciated.
Now put the other starter from a 35hp Johnson on with just 2 bolts usable, spun over worked for about 4 key strokes then started slipping the fly wheel.
Inspection revealed that the starter motor had already worked loose from the mounting bolts and was not close enough to drive the fly wheel. As a local farmer would do, I went to the shop cut a piece of 12/2 w/ground wire off a roll and used it to pull the starter motor in line with the fly wheel. Pumped the bulb, hit the key and it fired, died, pumped again, hit the key fired and ran a long time. Happy happy happy, we know it is worth working on now.
So now it idles to fast to try and engage the forward or reverse. So the idle rich/lean is not what I need to change, correct.
So appears that I need to adjust the linkage in the tiller handle? Thanks again, Webekin

 

[Webekin]

So I watched a you tube video, and I do adjust the idle speed with the lean/rich screw. So I would screw it in to reduce the speed. Thanks, Webekin

 

[Webekin]

Think I need to replace the seal the needle adjustment screw treads into.
Webekin

 

[racerone]

The lean / rich mixture screw is not used to set the idle speed.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

No.

Rich/lean idle screw should be set correctly... it does not control the idle at least as far as finial rpm.

The idle is set with what we call a link and sync so look that up on line and study the videos.

 

[Webekin]

No.

Rich/lean idle screw should be set correctly... it does not control the idle at least as far as finial rpm.

The idle is set with what we call a link and sync so look that up on line and study the vid