Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

8up

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I'm sorry if I have wasted anyones time with my previous posts. I have learned so much from this site. 1986 140 hp still running rough. I stopped today a bought a spark tester. I didn't think I had good spark on the stbd side but the tester shows great spark all the way around(7/16"). But it still doesn't make much differnce when I pull the plug wires on the stbd side. This is the side that showed 115 psi compression (other 3 were 130).I think it is running on the no 2 & 4 cylinders. We have pulled the carbs and they look good. I am getting fuel to those carbs. Here's where I get lost. We sprayed a shot of wd-40 in each of the carbs, when sprayed in the two on the stbd side does not rev...it runs evn worse. When sprayed in the port side carbs it made no change.
 

R.Johnson

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

I would pull the cylinder head, and check the cylinder walls, and head gasket. A carb, or linkage problem would effect 1-2, 3-4, not 1 & 3
 

8up

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

I also forgot to mention that after I run the boat (in the water for an hour or so...not 5 min at a time in the yard) I have 1 or 2 tbsp of fuel in the bottom of my air silencer.
 

moderator1

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

8up <br />Captain <br />Member # 34969 <br /><br /> posted November 11, 2003 11:03 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Am I doing something wrong with my questions or what. Can't seem to get much input (if any) on my posts. I'm new at this, let me know if I'm doing something wrong. Thanks much. <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 15 | From: Yorktown, Va | Registered: Nov 2003 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />steelespike <br />Admiral <br />Member # 8805 <br /><br /> posted November 12, 2003 04:59 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />I didnt have much luck finding your posts.<br />Try bumping them back to the top maybe someone will respond.<br /><br />--------------------<br />Spike <br /><br />"When you work on an outboard<br />without a manual you have a fool for a mechanic"<br /><br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 1602 | Registered: Apr 2002 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />steelespike <br />Admiral <br />Member # 8805 <br /><br /> posted November 12, 2003 05:17 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />I found your posts.While they may not have solved your problems it seems you have had some good responses.Did you check the interupter switch?<br />Im not much help on the newish stuff I do mostly 50s and 60s.motors.Is it possible to switch components between right to left side and see if problem follows?<br /><br />--------------------<br />Spike <br /><br />"When you work on an outboard<br />without a manual you have a fool for a mechanic"<br /><br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 1602 | Registered: Apr 2002 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />clanton <br />Admiral <br />Member # 2789 <br /><br /> posted November 12, 2003 05:56 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />From reading some of you post, I think your trouble shooting method is whats wrong. You dont give us any numbers from your test results with the proper meter. <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 2730 | From: Immokalee,Florida | Registered: Jul 2001 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />8up <br />Captain <br />Member # 34969 <br /><br /> posted November 12, 2003 06:13 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Where is the interupter and what does it do? I haven't seen anything about that in my manual. Like I said I'm new at this outboard stuff, but I am trying to go about it in a methodical way. I dont have the electrical equipment to check outputs and from what I have read a Fluke digital meter won't work right. Any other help would be great. This sight is fantastic and there is alot of knowledge here. Thanks Again <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 15 | From: Yorktown, Va | Registered: Nov 2003 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />8up <br />Captain <br />Member # 34969 <br /><br /> posted November 12, 2003 06:23 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />sorry, I did a sensor coil resistance test and each reading(a,b,c,d) to "e" was 40.5 ohms. And each showed nothing to ground. I also did a charge coil resistance check and I don't remember the exact no. but it was in the spec in my manual (560 ohms + or - 25 ohms). The only thing that was not in speck was the ignition coil resistance check. Each coil(4) on the primary terminal to ground was .3 to .4 ohms the book says .1 + or - .05ohms. Again this is a 1986 140 hp. Thanks Much <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 15 | From: Yorktown, Va | Registered: Nov 2003 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />rodbolt <br />Captain <br />Member # 32169 <br /><br /> posted November 12, 2003 07:09 AM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />hello<br />dude<br />fix the mechanical before you chase the electrical.130-115 is to large a spread. do a leak down test .<br />clean the carbs but nothing will work as long as the engine is not mechanically sound. a cylinder leak down test will tell if the leakage is excessive. if the comprerssion came back with oil it tells me you have a leak in that cylinder. pull the head and have a look if nothing else.<br />Good luck and keep posting <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 648 | From: Kitty Hawk NC | Registered: Sep 2003 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />8up <br />Captain <br />Member # 34969 <br /><br /> posted November 12, 2003 08:28 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />rodbolt,<br />how much of a job is that to pull the head?
 

moderator1

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

8up <br />First Mate <br />Member # 34969 <br /><br /> posted November 10, 2003 08:17 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />If you've read my previous post about weak stbd side spark and the intermentant hesitation you know what my problems are. (swapped coils, new plugs, wires, new used power pack, carbs looked o.k.)A friend of a friend says he's sure its the stator. According to my book its a sensor coil, is that also called a stator (86' 140 evinrude). Resistance check in spec Any thoughts please. <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 8 | From: Yorktown, Va | Registered: Nov 2003
 

moderator1

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

8up <br />First Mate <br />Member # 34969 <br /><br /> posted November 11, 2003 07:21 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />1986 140 h.p. V4 has weak stbd side spark and the intermentant hesitation.I swapped coils, new plugs, wires, new used power pack, carbs looked o.k. A friend of a friend says he's sure its the stator. Resistance check in spec Any thoughts please. Could it be the timer base. <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 13 | From: Yorktown, Va | Registered: Nov 2003 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />Walker <br />Captain <br />Member # 11282 <br /><br /> posted November 11, 2003 11:01 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Sure sounds like a pickup coil in the stator. Check the timer base resistance as per manual specs. I have only seen one bad timer base in my life. It was last month on a 3 cyl. 70. <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 582 | From: SanAntonio,Tx | Registered: Jun 2002 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />boatin <br />Captain <br />Member # 28715 <br /><br /> posted November 11, 2003 11:34 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />there should also be an output test in your manual. Ive never done that test so I couldnt help much. The timer base on my 70hp also went out.(failed the resistance test).........<br />try doing a search on this forum.........or wait for the pros to reply . they are probably out fishing for the holliday.................<br />I have found this to be a top notch forum. <br /><br />--------------------<br />fishin at sunset...theres almost nothin better!! ............Steve<br /><br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 38 | From: mississippi | Registered: Jul 2003 | IP: Logged <br /> <br />woodshole <br />Captain <br />Member # 9332 <br /><br /> posted November 12, 2003 03:02 PM <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />i am very interested in this topic. i suspect something may be wrong with my timing or stator. the engine will only start (when it does and will only run at high rpm before dying) when the bar under the fly wheel is only in one position or sweet spot???? <br />--------------------------------------------------------------------------------<br />Posts: 23 | Registered: May 2002 | IP: Logged
 

rodbolt

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

hello<br /> remember the port bank of carbs feeds the stbd cylinders on a looper 140.<br /> good luck and your on the right track.
 

Duck Loads

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

A lot of fuel coming out (the wrong way) of the carbs would suggest a broken reed. Run the motor while holding a small piece of cardboard about an inch or two away from each individual carb throat. A very small amount of mist coming out of the carbs might be ok, but if the paper gets really wet over a couple, It would sound like to me reed problems.<br /><br />Good luck,<br />Duck L.
 

8up

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

Thanks for the replies. I think I'm narrowing in on the problem. Is my motor a looper? My model number is E140TLCOS. That helps alot knowing that the port carbs feed the stbd cylinders. I just went out and ran it for a couple minutes. There was some spitting coming from the port carbs. It was coming out of the lower air bleed on both of the carbs. If I do have a reed problem, how costly and difficult to replace are they? This motor has about 40 hours on a 99' rebuild, and it did sit for about two years before I bought it. Could these pistons be assembled wrong on the stbd side.Thanks again in advance.
 

8up

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

Any more help would be great. I would realy like to know if mine is a looper so I can be sure whether or not the carbs feed the other side. Thanks again.
 

Hooty

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Re: Started from scratch 1986 140...New info (please help)

Your engine is loop charged.<br /><br />c/6<br />Hooty
 
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