Starcraft floor replacement

fisherman387

Cadet
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
8
I've been told to put styrofoam under the floor boards to help buoyancy. Is this necessary? I also heard not to use treated wood so the paint will stick is this true?
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

the reason pressure treated wood is not used in alum boats is that the chemicals used tot treat the wood causes a galvanic resopnce and the wood actually eats the aluminium !.

the foam is not standard styrofoam......but use a closed cell foam....a 2 part pour in foam is considedrd the standard for floatation....

if you read all of the restoration compleated projects forum.....dj did a great job in there of a tinny and lund also did one......also search "foam" and "deck"

this site if fantastic......there is soo much on just about any question you could ever ask about a boat......

if your goiung to replace the deck on yours....start a thread in the restoration section.......youll get lots of help.....in fact they will walk you right thru it !

cheers
oops
 

fisherman387

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Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
8
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

Totally guys! I wish i would have gotten a picture of the boat while it was upside down against a pine tree. This is my first boat. i got the whole setup with the boat, trailer, and mercury motor for two hundred bucks. Hopefully i can get some Pictures up tonight.
 

drewmitch44

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
1,749
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

You can however find treated wood that is not ACQ. The problem is with the ACQ treated wood. I work for lowes and we can get and i think we stock treated wood that is not ACQ. You hear the older guys say "salt treated". Well i think that is kinda how they do it. The ACQ has some kind of chemical that eats away at aluminum. You can also get a paint that you can put on the aluminum that keeps the ACQ wood from eating away at the aluminum, I would not trust it though.
 

Joe_the_boatman

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
482
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

You can however find treated wood that is not ACQ. The problem is with the ACQ treated wood. I work for lowes and we can get and i think we stock treated wood that is not ACQ. You hear the older guys say "salt treated". Well i think that is kinda how they do it. The ACQ has some kind of chemical that eats away at aluminum. You can also get a paint that you can put on the aluminum that keeps the ACQ wood from eating away at the aluminum, I would not trust it though.


The "C" in ACQ (or MCQ) is for copper. Copper reacts w/ aluminum... check out a galvanic corrosion chart of metals.

I insulated the ACQ and MCQ I used w/ epoxy between it and the aluminum.

Also, they only react when an electrically conductive medium is between them - i.e. ionized water or salt water. After much research, I decided to take my chances w/ the ACQ rather than w/ the expense and trouble of finding marine grade plywood (which uses arsenic as a preservative and therefore doesn't react w/ aluminum).


Also, paint (and resin) sticks just fine to pressure treated wood, as long as it's dry. You won't get either to stick to wet wood (pressure treated or otherwise).
 

j_martin

Admiral
Joined
Sep 22, 2006
Messages
7,474
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

The "C" in ACQ (or MCQ) is for copper. Copper reacts w/ aluminum... check out a galvanic corrosion chart of metals.

I insulated the ACQ and MCQ I used w/ epoxy between it and the aluminum.

Also, they only react when an electrically conductive medium is between them - i.e. ionized water or salt water. After much research, I decided to take my chances w/ the ACQ rather than w/ the expense and trouble of finding marine grade plywood (which uses arsenic as a preservative and therefore doesn't react w/ aluminum).


Also, paint (and resin) sticks just fine to pressure treated wood, as long as it's dry. You won't get either to stick to wet wood (pressure treated or otherwise).


Key note here. The preservative in pressure treated wood is water-born. They don't dry it out after preservation because it'll likely be used in a wet situation (ground contact) anyway, so why bother. Whey you get it at the local lumber yard, it's real heavy because it's still wet.

It can be dried out, but it takes a bunch of time, and you need to keep flipping it over so it doesn't curl up like bacon.

I would use A-C, or B-C pine or fir plywood, and treat it with a good soaking of CPES (Rot Doctor's Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer.) Then it'll hold paint, screws, epoxy, or anything else you want to stick to it. Water will stay out.

The foam approved for emergency flotation is a 2 part polyurethane rigid foam. The same foam is used for tank insulation. That's where I found someone to squirt some in my bass boat refloor project. It took about 10 minutes after the floor was all fastened in, and was installed through 1/2 inch holes. It would have been a real bear to hand pour and shape the same structure.

hope it helps
John
 

Joe_the_boatman

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
482
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

Key note here. The preservative in pressure treated wood is water-born. They don't dry it out after preservation because it'll likely be used in a wet situation (ground contact) anyway, so why bother. Whey you get it at the local lumber yard, it's real heavy because it's still wet.

It can be dried out, but it takes a bunch of time, and you need to keep flipping it over so it doesn't curl up like bacon.

John


Good advice. I let my transom wood (ACQ, Lowe's) dry for 3+ months, standing on it's side (so both sides dried at roughly same rate, and didn't warp).

Floor (deck) plywood (MCQ, or "micronized" from Home Depot) was pretty dry when I bought it (for whatever reason). It sat in the garage about 3 days on end before I put epoxy on it. It drank it up, too. Took 3 coats until I got a good gloss.
 

fisherman387

Cadet
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
8
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

So i put my flooring in and then have them pump the foam in? Where would be a good place to look for someone to do this?
 

JB

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Mar 25, 2001
Messages
45,907
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

Deck or sole, Fisherman. Not even Starcraft have floors.
 

fisherman387

Cadet
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
8
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

i can't get my pictures to upload on here. they are under the size limit. it keeps telling me "invalid entry" or some garbage. i have an apple computer would this be part of the problem?
 

Joe_the_boatman

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
482
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

Sounds like a web browser issue.... or the server's busy.

Best quality is to upload to photobucket which will resize to 640X480 as they upload, if you tell it to.

Then, copy/paste
 

fisherman387

Cadet
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
8
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

tell me about marine board. is this good stuff? pros and cons? thanks for the advice about treated lumber. i had no idea it ate aluminum. i'm torn between the idea of putting carpet in the boat or painting it with sand sprinkled on the last couple coats...
my boat is a great orange color and the paint is in just under perfect condition. just needs shined up. any recommendations on rubbing compounds for buffing? a wax for finishing up? i work at an auto body shop and we use a 3M buffing system for car paints and clear coats would these work good or are there any special marine waxes and compounds?
i'll try and work on getting some photos up here maybe after work tonight with photobucket. i work two jobs so time is something i never have enough of. so no promises on the pictures.
 

fisherman387

Cadet
Joined
Aug 24, 2008
Messages
8
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

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There ya are. My new babycakes... don't tell my girlfriend.. eh heh heh..
 

capquest

Cadet
Joined
Aug 10, 2008
Messages
9
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

the reason pressure treated wood is not used in alum boats is that the chemicals used tot treat the wood causes a galvanic resopnce and the wood actually eats the aluminium !.

the foam is not standard styrofoam......but use a closed cell foam....a 2 part pour in foam is considedrd the standard for floatation....

if you read all of the restoration compleated projects forum.....dj did a great job in there of a tinny and lund also did one......also search "foam" and "deck"

this site if fantastic......there is soo much on just about any question you could ever ask about a boat......

if your goiung to replace the deck on yours....start a thread in the restoration section.......youll get lots of help.....in fact they will walk you right thru it !

cheers
oops

Does this also apply to 'yella wood'? I know it's true for CCA
 

Joe_the_boatman

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
482
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

Does this also apply to 'yella wood'? I know it's true for CCA


CCA is less corrosive than ACQ or MCQ. Yella Wood uses the MCQ process, and should be insulated from aluminum. They claim MCQ is less corrosive than ACQ, though.
 

Joe_the_boatman

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 14, 2005
Messages
482
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

I've never heard of a Starcraft Nova, but that doesn't mean it doesn't exist. You know what year it is?
 

John_S

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jun 21, 2004
Messages
4,269
Re: Starcraft floor replacement

Your floor and hull construction is very close to my '67 14' Starcraft.

The original styrofoam was cut sheets that layed perpendicular over the ribs. Some of mine was waterlogged and contributed to the floor rot. I replaced it with a blue construction foam which I cut with a knife. I believe it is closed cell and used for ground contact. I went that way over poured foam, which I would have had to some how create a gap underneigth for draining.

One thing you should do is clean the gap under the center of the ribs and the aluminum sheet of the hull. Use a butter knife to clear the dirt and debrie build-up. This will allow for better under floor draining to the back of the boat.

If you haven't already, leak test the hull and fix any leaking rivits.

I used 5/8" exterior grade plywood, which was what was stock in the boat. Stock was only painted on the top side. I primed and painted all sides and edges.

http://www.canadalake.org/Starcraft67.html
http://www.canadalake.org/Starcraftii.html
 
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