Starboard cooling well, port side getting hot.

[sutor623]

'95 E-rude 130 E130TXAOR Motor is coming along well thanks to all you guys help. It is my first dual head motor. I haven't let the port head trigger the overheat alarm yet, but she is getting much hotter than the starboard side, running in a bucket. My water hose was not delivering ample water flow.

Compression of motor is great, 135 in all cylinders.

Anyways, I put an OMC waterpump kit in and the telltale is flowing very well. Before I put the LU back on, I ran a waterhose up the copper tube until I saw water coming out of the telltale. Pulled both thermostats and changed them. I changed the diaphram on the starboard side, but the one on port looked good (and all I had was one diaphram on hand.) Do you guys think that an older diaphram (that seems functional) is the culprit here? Should I pull the thermo again and try and flush water down into the coolant passage? I am stumped here.

I know that taking it to the lake and opening up the throttle would help to clear her out and get a better picture, but I am apprehensive to take her out quite yet.

 

[Bosunsmate]

yes that could be it, if you bought a couple of those less than a dollar gaskets you could swap them over and see if the problem changes side

 

[sutor623]

Thanks Bos, I feel like I should have you over for some coffee. Hahahaha. The old diaphram is stuck to the block so if I pull it it will be game over. I am going to get another diaphram, then swap the stats and see how that goes. Too bad the dealer won't have the part until Friday. I was hoping to go on a sea trial on Friday.

Sure hope there isnt a blockage in the motor. The old waterpump was whole, so I doubt there is a blockage anywhere. Good thing is I think this is my final issue to get sorted out.

 

[sutor623]

Does anybody have a cooling water flowchart for these 130's?

 

[sutor623]

Does this motor have a poppet valve?

 

[Bosunsmate]

Does this motor have a poppet valve?

Your thermostat in that housing has a pressure relief spring which acts the poppet system.
:tea: Im in new zealand where its winter so sure get me over!

 

[sutor623]

No Title

Hahaha, I hear ya. Id love to visit New Zealand it sounds beautiful from what I hear.

Also guys, lookie what I found, figured Id share in case anyone wants to know. Looks like one of the simplest flow paths I have seen.

 

[sutor623]

DUDES!!!!!! So I think I have figured this thing out. Let me go ahead and say, first thing you should do in this case is buy a $20 infrared thermometer!!!

Here's a bit of background info. I got this motor off a good friend who parked the boat 5 years ago. The service tech put in a new powerpack because of an ignition issue. Well, I noticed that I had a pretty severe misfire, so I pulled the powerpack up to see this.





That blue wire was pinched with a nut and was grounding out!!. I clipped the wire, soldered and heat shrinked it back together, and it seems that the miss cleared.

What I found out, is that my port head is NOT overheating. My starboard head is UNDERHEATING!!! I realized this after buying an IR thermometer and once I fixed the blue wire the temp in the starboard head was getting hotter. I let the motor warm up and run for 15-20 minutes in a bucket with fresh water coming in from the hose. The port head surface temperature stayed from 135-143 degrees the ENTIRE time!!! The starboard head warmed up just a bit slower, and stayed at the same range, but one time right after I cut the motor off it dropped down to 112 degrees and the port side was still at 135. Odd right?

I am thinking that even though the motor was only run with the blue wire grounded out for a limited time, it may have shorted something out and created and intermittent issue. The wire going to the powerpack is hooked up from the stator. SO, I think I have lost a bank. Cylinders 1 and 3. I am going to put a DVA meter on the motor on friday. I checked resistance of the stator and trigger all checked out. I am going to have to wait until the starboard cylinder starts to run cooler, and then isolate the issue with my DVA meter.

What do you guys think about my hypothesis/findings?

 

[Bosunsmate]

yes any bare wire grounding out will cause an issue. I thought you said the miss was fixed so whats the issue now?
I wouldnt worry about the difference in temp after its turned off, who knows what bank keeps water in it longer as it drains

 

[sutor623]

Well, the miss cleared, but the motor still seems to "stumble" here and there. I think the only thing to do now is get her out on the lake and see how she runs under load. I appreciate all of your time and help on the matter. I'll let ya know how she does. Stay warm!

 

[Bosunsmate]

you might have a slight lean carb and need to back out the needle valve on the responsible carb a touch.
yes its a bit nippy but the girlfriends up tomorrow:target:

 

[sutor623]

yes its a bit nippy but the girlfriends up tomorrow:target:

Let's keep it PG in here okay??? :laugh:

 

[sutor623]

And great idea about the carb situation. I didnt even think of that.

 

[sutor623]

Just thought I'd give the closing statement about the heating issue. I replace the rubber diaphragm in the over-cooling head and now the temperatures are very comparable. Good to know the motor is cooling properly.

I am dealing with an electrical issue now on another thread......

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...ds/9966732-is-this-a-lean-sneeze-or-a-misfire