Stalls on acceleration under load

mschrei2

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Jun 21, 2022
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Hello,

I took my 2007 Bayliner 3.0l I/O out for the first time this season. It runs fine on idle and on the hose as soon as I put it in the water it stalls when trying to accelerate. I did plugs and wires, and oil changes on both engine and outdrive. I am unsure where to go from here. I stabilized the fuel when winterizing. Any thoughts would be great just trying to enjoy the short boating season I have in Maine
 

mschrei2

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Jun 21, 2022
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Yes I have checked timing. Cap and rotor seems fine. Fuel filter is next on the list.
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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Is there an easy way to check if fuel pressure is good?
Need a t fitting and a fuel pressure gauge generally can rig something out of 3/8 flare fittings with a little creativity

What do the spark plugs look like
 

mschrei2

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Need a t fitting and a fuel pressure gauge generally can rig something out of 3/8 flare fittings with a little creativity

What do the spark plugs look like
Scott, I completely forgot to answer this.... Fuel pump is in good shape sitting at 6psi. I replace fuel filter, T-stat, and use power tune in the carb. All of which had no effect on the issue. I also replace cap and rotor because the shop had ones in stock and figured it couldn't hurt. I ordered a carb kit but it is 3 weeks out. Which pretty much kills my summer. Maybe I will have better luck next year.
 

MattH1900SC

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Have you checked the float level in the carb. With the engine turned off, if you apply the throttle you should see 2 distinct jets of fuel squirt into the 2 carb bores
 

mschrei2

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Have you checked the float level in the carb. With the engine turned off, if you apply the throttle you should see 2 distinct jets of fuel squirt into the 2 carb bores
Yes, I get to squirts of fuel. However, when the motor runs and throttles up, I don't see any gas.

I also went to go put in the rotor today and it is stuck well on the distributer any thoughts on how to get it off?
 

itsathepete

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May 23, 2018
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Have you checked the float level in the carb. With the engine turned off, if you apply the throttle you should see 2 distinct jets of fuel squirt into the 2 carb bores
Float level determines level of fuel in the carb bowl. Accelerator pump is the squirting when you open the throttle. 2 different animals. However, a sticky float can either not let fuel in the carb, or let too much in so it's worth making sure the carb is clean.
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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One thing worth checking is the shift interrupt switch isn't being activated as you open the throttle. To check just run the engine and then throttle up until it stalls. Then don't move anything and look at the switch. If the lever that activates the switch isn't in the centre, then it's a shaft cable problem... But...

It sounds like a blockage somewhere in the progression holes/idle circuit inside the carb. That's going to need a strip and clean...

Chris...
 

nola mike

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I also went to go put in the rotor today and it is stuck well on the distributer any thoughts on how to get it off?
It's glued on. Either smoosh it with some pliers or someone on here recently cut it off with a solder gun or something which seemed like a good idea.
 

Scott06

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Scott, I completely forgot to answer this.... Fuel pump is in good shape sitting at 6psi. I replace fuel filter, T-stat, and use power tune in the carb. All of which had no effect on the issue. I also replace cap and rotor because the shop had ones in stock and figured it couldn't hurt. I ordered a carb kit but it is 3 weeks out. Which pretty much kills my summer. Maybe I will have better luck next year.
I had to chisel my rotor off did not use loctite to put new one on…

You may be able to get the bowl top off with out screwing up the gaskets, you need to clean inside passages not just spray power tune down the bores

At least you can adjust float to see if that cures it while waiting on kit
 

mschrei2

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Jun 21, 2022
Messages
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One thing worth checking is the shift interrupt switch isn't being activated as you open the throttle. To check just run the engine and then throttle up until it stalls. Then don't move anything and look at the switch. If the lever that activates the switch isn't in the centre, then it's a shaft cable problem... But...

It sounds like a blockage somewhere in the progression holes/idle circuit inside the carb. That's going to need a strip and clean...

Chris...
Thanks Chris, I will have to give this a check. Although if I get it to go past the 2k that it dies at which it can sometimes it will run fine up in the hire rpms (reving in neutral).
 

mschrei2

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Jun 21, 2022
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I had to chisel my rotor off did not use loctite to put new one on…

You may be able to get the bowl top off with out screwing up the gaskets, you need to clean inside passages not just spray power tune down the bores

At least you can adjust float to see if that cures it while waiting on kit
It's glued on. Either smoosh it with some pliers or someone on here recently cut it off with a solder gun or something which seemed like a good idea.
Thank you both! I ended up getting it off by heat a screw driver with a blow torch and then melting the top until I could split it... Soldering iron would have been easier.

I figured the crab need to come apart but had the power tune figured it'd be worth a try.... I have order a replacement crab to get rid of the TKS module and go to a standard style choke. Hopefully that will solve the problem. The carb seemed to be the original with the boat... as the screw on the top of the carb are all painted over and the bolts holding the carb in have paint on them as well.
 

Rick Stephens

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Get an OEM rebuild kit. Super easy carburetor to rebuild, just be thorough on cleaning and verifying every passageway, and get the float level perfect. Voila', back to running.
 

mschrei2

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Jun 21, 2022
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New carb came in now the boat won't even try to start I the boat is getting fuel when pumping the throttle it lets fuel into the carb. choke isn't wired yet but it should still start I would think. I also checked for spark, and it has spark, so I am not sure why it won't start. any thoughts on this would be great. is it a related problem or is it a new problem?
 

Scott06

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New carb came in now the boat won't even try to start I the boat is getting fuel when pumping the throttle it lets fuel into the carb. choke isn't wired yet but it should still start I would think. I also checked for spark, and it has spark, so I am not sure why it won't start. any thoughts on this would be great. is it a related problem or is it a new problem?
Iff it has spark you aren’t getting fuel pour a little gas down the carb if ther is spark it will cough

i assume you did an intial setting of the idle mix screw? Where did you get replacement carb from
 

mschrei2

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Iff it has spark you aren’t getting fuel pour a little gas down the carb if ther is spark it will cough

i assume you did an intial setting of the idle mix screw? Where did you get replacement carb from
When I pump the throttle I get 2 squirts of gas from the carb. I pumped it 5 time cranked and then pumped 5 more times. I repeated until I opt to stop since it wasn't starting. What should the base setting of the mixture screw be for the carb?
 

Scott06

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When I pump the throttle I get 2 squirts of gas from the carb. I pumped it 5 time cranked and then pumped 5 more times. I repeated until I opt to stop since it wasn't starting. What should the base setting of the mixture screw be for the carb?
About 1.5 turns out from fully seated

Are u sure u have good spark would think 5 pumps is enough to cough .

Man overboard switch tripped ?
 
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