Spraying Outboard Down with WD-40

[jkimball]

Looking for some input from some Old Salts on here. I've always been told that it's good practice to spray an outboard (under the cowl/ cowl removed) with WD-40 as part of a cleaning and post use regimen. Especially when coming back from a run in the brine.

So as often as I can, I do. I also flush the motor after EVERY use whether it be fresh, brackish or salt and use CRC's "Salt Terminator" which seems to be windex on steroids.

Now, I've read somewhere recently (I think it was on the hull truth) that coating the engine with WD-40 can actually be counterproductive and actually harmful in some cases to the rubber hoses & spark plug wires etc.

Does anyone have any input on this? Am I doing more harm than good? I would think that the oils in WD-40 would be more preservative than corrosive in nature.

 

[Chris1956]

I boat in saltwater. When I return from a significant trip, I hose the OB or I/O block down with freshwater, and let air dry, with the cowling or doghouse off. I use a corrosion guard spray over winter lay-up, but not in-season. Obviously you do not want water to get into the motor thru the carb.

 

[BRICH1260]

WD40 seems to evaporate to quickly for my likes. I prefer to use a thicker viscosity spray like Fluid Film or Fogging Spray on my bare metal components, but then again I do not boat in salt water.

 

[Home Cookin']

Do not use WD40 on anything around salt water--that's heresy for some and the way most of us were raised. "WD" means "water displacement" (or "water drying") and while it will get rid of water on a surface, it leaves the surface exposed to corrosion and, some say, even attracts salt. That's why it seems to evaporate quickly. Washing the inside of the motor cowling is completely unnecessary. Rinse off the outside parts with fresh water--gently, because hard spray pushes salt, sand, etc into places. I like spray white lithium grease as a coating on parts. And always better to air dry than be covered and trap moisture.

 

[jestor68]

Looking for some input from some Old Salts on here. I've always been told that it's good practice to spray an outboard (under the cowl/ cowl removed) with WD-40 as part of a cleaning and post use regimen. Especially when coming back from a run in the brine.

So as often as I can, I do. I also flush the motor after EVERY use whether it be fresh, brackish or salt and use CRC's "Salt Terminator" which seems to be windex on steroids.

Now, I've read somewhere recently (I think it was on the hull truth) that coating the engine with WD-40 can actually be counterproductive and actually harmful in some cases to the rubber hoses & spark plug wires etc.

Does anyone have any input on this? Am I doing more harm than good? I would think that the oils in WD-40 would be more preservative than corrosive in nature.

The old salts are correct. WD-40 is effective in providing a protective coating which helps to prevent corrosion and rust from forming.

The carrier evaporates, leaving the protective coating(oil). All of the motors that I have used it on never suffered any corrosion or rust. It never harmed any rubber or plastic items.

Think of it as Three and One oil in a spray can. The carrier(that allows it to spray) evaporates; not the oil.

 

[Texasmark]

I always wondered about the name of the product. I know that it's water displacing as it is recommended for things like the inside of distributor caps to dispel water and help you get your engine back up and running. But the 40? Was this the 40th try at getting it right? If so, get what right; what was the original goal of the chemists?

Mark

 

[dingbat]

I always wondered about the name of the product. I know that it's water displacing as it is recommended for things like the inside of distributor caps to dispel water and help you get your engine back up and running. But the 40? Was this the 40th try at getting it right? If so, get what right; what was the original goal of the chemists?

Mark

In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California.

It took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40[SUB]®[/SUB]—which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today.

Convair, an aerospace contractor, first used WD-40 to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. The product actually worked so well that several employees snuck some WD-40 cans out of the plant to use at home.
A few years following WD-40's first industrial use, Rocket Chemical Company founder Norm Larsen experimented with putting WD-40 into aerosol cans, reasoning that consumers might find a use for the product at home as some of the employees had. The product made its first appearance on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.

In 1960 the company nearly doubled in size, growing to seven people, who sold an average of 45 cases per day from the trunk of their cars to hardware and sporting goods stores in the San Diego area.

In 1961 the first full truckload order for WD-40 was filled when employees came in on a Saturday to produce additional concentrate to meet the disaster needs of the victims of Hurricane Carla along the U.S. Gulf coast. WD-40 was used to recondition flood and rain damaged vehicles and equipment.

 

[dingbat]

I don't do anything to the motor at the end of the day. Never have, never will. Pointless...Why clean if it's just going to get dirty again....lol

Having said that, I've used WD to clean oil and grease off the motor from time to time.Spray liberly, then wipe everything down with a cotton rag. Removed grease and oil build up. Leaves a light protective film on the surface.

The protection (oils) in WD does not evaporate. The solvent used as a delivery catalyst is what evaporates. Anyone who has cleaned / rebuilt anything WD was used on can testify to it's tenacious holding power. I spend more time removing built up deposits of WD from customers rods and reels that you I care to imagine.

 

[Home Cookin']

do you also find that the customers who treat their rods and reels with WD40 also get a fair build-up of the greens and crunchies?

 

[dingbat]

do you also find that the customers who treat their rods and reels with WD40 also get a fair build-up of the greens and crunchies?

Actually the opposite. Most of my clientele are particular about the care their rods. My best customer removes the reels and rinses with Salt-away at the end of each day.

The green and "blistering" is the interaction of the salts with the base metal (a lot of guides/reel parts are brass) or the thin layer of copper that is applied as part of the plating process. Both scenarios require the outer coating to be compromised in someway for the process to begin. WD isn't the best thing to spray on rod epoxy. I advise all my customers against it, but its better than nothing for keeping the green and "blistering" under control.

The best protection you can use on rods is a good quality wax. I treat all my personal rods, and those that I sell, with Colinite insulator wax. Rinse with freshwater after that.

 

[frantically relaxing]

...Why clean if it's just going to get dirty again....lol

I tried that philosophy on an old boss once. The answer I got:

"Guess you don't spend much money on toilet paper..."

 

[bilge rat jim]

Just makes a big mess- and serves no purpose.

 

[JimS123]

When I got my first jetski (a SeaDoo) they recommended "Bombardier Lube" to spray down an engine after salt water use. I tried that stuff and found it works so good for everything that i threw my WD-40 away and have used it ever since.

 

[Texasmark]

In 1953, a fledgling company called Rocket Chemical Company and its staff of three set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry, in a small lab in San Diego, California.

It took them 40 attempts to get the water displacing formula worked out. But they must have been really good, because the original secret formula for WD-40[SUB]®[/SUB]—which stands for Water Displacement perfected on the 40th try—is still in use today.

Convair, an aerospace contractor, first used WD-40 to protect the outer skin of the Atlas Missile from rust and corrosion. The product actually worked so well that several employees snuck some WD-40 cans out of the plant to use at home.
A few years following WD-40's first industrial use, Rocket Chemical Company founder Norm Larsen experimented with putting WD-40 into aerosol cans, reasoning that consumers might find a use for the product at home as some of the employees had. The product made its first appearance on store shelves in San Diego in 1958.

In 1960 the company nearly doubled in size, growing to seven people, who sold an average of 45 cases per day from the trunk of their cars to hardware and sporting goods stores in the San Diego area.

In 1961 the first full truckload order for WD-40 was filled when employees came in on a Saturday to produce additional concentrate to meet the disaster needs of the victims of Hurricane Carla along the U.S. Gulf coast. WD-40 was used to recondition flood and rain damaged vehicles and equipment.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Chris1956]

If my boating was done an a lake or other freshwater body, I would not use anything on the block. The heat of the running motor would keep it dry, just the way I like it.

 

[dingbat]

I tried that philosophy on an old boss once. The answer I got:

"Guess you don't spend much money on toilet paper..."

Two-thirds of the world's population doesn't use TP which makes it a preference, not a requirement. Therefore......I boat, you wipe.......lol

 

[Home Cookin']

that's a good point because a dry motor (under the cowl) is far better than a hosed -off and put away wet motor--and unless you trailer it home in daylight it's not drying after being hosed. And chances are, it wasn't wet in there to begin with.

Those who are new to salt water think that it defies gravity and runs all up inside the block while you are running. It doesn't. What gets to the parts is damp salt air in contact with unprotected metal and especially where there's current. Factory paint is the best protection. Moving parts and electrical connections need help.

 

[MikDee]

One Good Tip for WD-40 is spray a little on all your replacement light bulbs, then they'll unscrew without leaving the base in the lamp! This has happened to me previously, too many times!