Spindle pitting or discoloration?

[skalunda]

Hey y'all.

Wondering if someone could take a look at these photos and let me know if I can continue to run wheels on this spindle. I cleaned it up with some 320 grit emery cloth prior to the photos. Bearings slide on smoothly, should the bearings seat not move when they are on the spindle?

The other thing that concerns me is what appears to be minor pitting where the inner bearing sits. It may just be surface discoloration. I cleaned it up a little with some emery cloth but its still showing.

I'm replacing all the components of the bearings, races and seals and the hubs are three years old. The old bearings didn't look bad but had some wear on the races, bearings. The bearings had about 1500 miles on them and they sat for a couple years. These hubs never got real hot when I drove it on about a 200 mile trip last year.

I've got to drive this trailer about 1700 miles soon. It has a light 1973 Sears aluminum jon boat on it with a 25hp motor and trolling motor in total probably weighs about 400-500 pounds.

 

[airshot]

The bearings dont spin on the spindle, it just holds them in place so the wheel/ tire can rotate. The bearungs should not be a sloppy fit, they are actually held in place by the races. Those spindles look ok from your pics, as long as all new bearings, races and seals, I dont see an issue, just be sure they are properly packed with grease

 

[skalunda]

The bearings dont spin on the spindle, it just holds them in place so the wheel/ tire can rotate. The bearungs should not be a sloppy fit, they are actually held in place by the races. Those spindles look ok from your pics, as long as all new bearings, races and seals, I dont see an issue, just be sure they are properly packed with grease

Thanks for your reply! It seems the inner part of the old bearing moves about a millimeter in slop. Is that some what normal? So as to not be to tight of a fit?

 

[Chris1956]

After you install the new races and greased bearings, install the grease seal. Now put the hub on and install the washer and nut. Spin the hub and tighten the nut with a wrench, until the hub stops. Now, without turning the hub, loosen the nut and then tighten it by hand.

Now spin the hub. It should spin and stop, with a bit of backspin, or at least not a quick stop. Grab the hub at 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle it. Repeat with 9 and 3 o'clock. There should be zero play.

If you have brakes on the trailer, these can interfere with these tests.

If those test pass, the bearing is good and installed properly. Install the cotter pin, keeper and hub dust cap.

 

[rustybronco]

It seems the inner part of the old bearing moves about a millimeter in slop. Is that some what normal? So as to not be to tight of a fit?

1 mm slop between inner portion of the (each) bearing and the spindle? That's quite a bit. .039 thou to be exact. Did you measure it?

 

[Horigan]

What's not clear in the pictures is the condition of the spindle where the rear seal rides. Is this smooth or is there pitting. If there's pitting, you should consider Speedi-sleeves to repair it. Went through this on my trailer.

 

[skalunda]

What's not clear in the pictures is the condition of the spindle where the rear seal rides. Is this smooth or is there pitting. If there's pitting, you should consider Speedi-sleeves to repair it. Went through this on my trailer.

It's not going in the water right now. Just trying to get it to another location. I may get a different trailer at that point.

 

[skalunda]

1 mm slop between inner portion of the (each) bearing and the spindle? That's quite a bit. .039 thou to be exact. Did you measure it?

No, I didn't measure it. I was just eyeballing it. I will have to take a closer look. It's pretty minuscule.

 

[skalunda]

1 mm slop between inner portion of the (each) bearing and the spindle? That's quite a bit. .039 thou to be exact. Did you measure it?

After checking it again I realize the movement I was feeling was from the outer bearing moving. There is almost no space between the inner part of the bearing and the spindle. Just enough to slide on smoothly.

 

[Silvertip]

The seal area looks like it has a groove in it so speedi-sleeve or spindle'axle replacement is the long-term fix.

 

[skalunda]

The seal area looks like it has a groove in it so speedi-sleeve or spindle'axle replacement is the long-term fix.

I'm not sure this trailer is worth fixing once I get it where it's going.

 

[skalunda]

After you install the new races and greased bearings, install the grease seal. Now put the hub on and install the washer and nut. Spin the hub and tighten the nut with a wrench, until the hub stops. Now, without turning the hub, loosen the nut and then tighten it by hand.

Now spin the hub. It should spin and stop, with a bit of backspin, or at least not a quick stop. Grab the hub at 12 and 6 o'clock and wiggle it. Repeat with 9 and 3 o'clock. There should be zero play.

If you have brakes on the trailer, these can interfere with these tests.

If those test pass, the bearing is good and installed properly. Install the cotter pin, keeper and hub dust cap.

I followed all your steps and everything looks good. I just forgot to do one thing. I did not put a layer of grease on the races. I packed the bearings really good and they were well coated when I seated them in the race and put the back seal on.

Will this cause an issue?

 

[Chris1956]

If you packed the bearings with grease, they should apply grease to the races. As long as there was no play in the bearing and no restriction to spinning, you should be good.

 

[skalunda]

If you packed the bearings with grease, they should apply grease to the races. As long as there was no play in the bearing and no restriction to spinning, you should be good.

I didn't put any grease in the hub prior to installing. I did fill the bearing buddy cap with grease and then I pumped grease in the installed cap zerk until the spring moved about 1/8 to 1/4 inch.
Will that grease distribute to the back of the hub?

 

[skalunda]

If you packed the bearings with grease, they should apply grease to the races. As long as there was no play in the bearing and no restriction to spinning, you should be good.

Can I take the hubs back off at this point without replacing the back seal so I can put some grease down in the hub and around the back bearing?
Would that seal need to be replaced if I remove the hub carefully?

 

[Chris1956]

Ye, you should be able to grease the races and hub, without removing the grease seal. If your wheel doesn't have brakes, you could pack the entire hub with grease if you wanted. That is what bearing buddies do anyway.

Bearing buddies are a good idea, BTW. Just keep 'em packed with grease, and it helps keep the water out.