Re: Special tools for OMC/Johnson repair.
I am in the process of resealing my 85 120hp johnson. Here's my take on it. I was able to make my own puller using an automotive harmonic balancer puller and thread-all. This was to remove the bearing housing.
You don't need the drive shaft holding socket. You can hold the end of the drive shaft by the splines with a pipe wrench. Be sure it's adjusted properly so it won't slip - it will not do any damage to the splines. I watched a mechanic take one apart using this method and I'm using it on mine with no problems.
I was able to get an 11/16" wrench on the pinon nut so the prop shaft holding tool wasn't needed. Put wrench on nut and break nut free by turning drive shaft with pipe wrench.
Shift rod height tool is not needed. Once the lower unit is off, screw the shift rod in until it stops and count the amount of turns. Later when you install it, back it out this many turns and you have the same setting.
Didn't need any special bearing tools on mine because it had the V6 commercial gearcase and all the rollers just fall out and require sticking back into the runners with wheel bearing grease so they don't fall out upon assemble. Your lower unit might be different.
Out of all the fancy tools, the only one I had to borrow was the large set of snap ring pliers. These things were a must. No store in town had suitable ones for me to purchase to complete the snap ring installation. Make sure you get ones that will fit into your gearcase housing because they make some really large bulky ones.
Hopefully someone else will follow up with more knowledge on your particular gear case.
While I don't have experience on that exact gearcase, I feel a rebuttal is in order. You need a drive shaft socket and torque wrench to properly tighten the nut on the bottom. Ok, go ahead and fake it if you want, the worst things that can happen is the nut come off and wipe out everything. Or the shaft break from over torque. Besides, the bearing height is set with a known torque on the nut, which relates to how far the tapered shaft is pressed into the pinion.
If the manual specifies a pinion bearing gauge, it is mandatory if you replace any of those parts. Or fake it and risk stripping the teeth off all the gears.
Shift rod height is able to be set back to where it is now--if you know it is right. Read some of the threads here concerning improper shifting and clutch dog wear.
The guide pins are necessary to reinstall the bearing carrier. In this case, you can make your own out of all-thread.
On most, you need the bearing removers and installers if the bearings have to be replaced. There is more to the bearing than the rollers.
Agreed, you won't get past first base without those honkin' big snap ring pliers.