Sourcing parts '89 125 HP

[The Force power]

The Force power does it fire twice when hooking up a second battery to the charging system and is it charging lower amps or does it affect the spark at all cylinders?
If I do not remember wrong the stator has two or three windings. Two (or one) for charging the capacitors in the CDI boxes and one for charging the battery.
Can you explain more and how you notice possible double firing.

Hi Nordin,
Thanks for tuning in.
I bought

CDI Electronics 176-3095 Chrysler/Force/Sears/Gamefinder Stator - 2/3/4/5 Cyl (1984-1992)​

Amazon.ca

I have not tried to hook a second battery to the charging part, forgive my ignorance but firing (and/or twice) would this not be a trigger issue?
I pulled all the plugs & ground them crank-over the motor (with the timing-tower/trigger in the idle position)
All cylinders fire "around" their respective TDC
I think I saw it fire with the lead on #1 cable/coil fire twice?
when I increase the RPM (while running) the bucking/hick-up becomes more violent
With the #1 & #2 plugs out & grounded the engine runs somewhat smooth / no bucking / sudden stall

 

[Nordin]

Okey, are the CDI boxes new?
I think the CDI boxes has a blocking diod inside and the purpose for it is to block the other CDI box from interference.
You can switch the CDI boxes and see if the issue moves to cylinder 3 and 4.

 

[The Force power]

Okey, are the CDI boxes new?
I think the CDI boxes has a blocking diode inside and the purpose for it is to block the other CDI box from interference.
You can switch the CDI boxes and see if the issue moves to cylinder 3 and 4.

No, the boxes are used & producing enough voltage to the coils ( 180 V + )
I've tried it with the kill-wires separated ( not touching each other )

 

[The Force power]

No, the boxes are used & producing enough voltage to the coils ( 180 V + )
I've tried it with the kill-wires separated ( not touching each other )

Tonight I'm going to pull the #1 spark-plug out & ground it.
run the engine to see if it still does the same thing, IF....it runs (somewhat) smooth like when I had #1 & #2 out, I'm going to change out the CDI box

 

[Nordin]

I have read some where at this forum about the blocking diod a couple of times but I do not know when.
Have not have any issue myself regarding it but the diods purpose is to block and secure that the CDI boxes not interfering to each other.
The CDI boxes produces the output voltage they should but the diod does not block as it should.
You only have this issue if you have a 3,4 or 5 cylinder engine as they have two or three CDI boxes.

 

[The Force power]

I have read some where at this forum about the blocking diod a couple of times but I do not know when.
Have not have any issue myself regarding it but the diods purpose is to block and secure that the CDI boxes not interfering to each other.
The CDI boxes produces the output voltage they should but the diod does not block as it should.
You only have this issue if you have a 3,4 or 5 cylinder engine as they have two or three CDI boxes.

The way I understand it is that when there's a faulty diode in one of the packs it can cause a no fire (see below)
NO FIRE OR INTERMITTENT ON ONE CYLINDER:
Check stator and trigger resistance, If readings are good, disconnect kill wire from one pack. If the dead cylinder starts firing, the problem is likely the blocking diode in the other pack.

But I don't have this problem, my #1 seems to fire twice??
I pulled the #1 plug out & started up the engine and no hick-ups / sudden stall, this means it is the ignition on #1 causing this
While the engine is running with the plug out & grounded its sparking away so is there a way to somehow check the contact point by manually rotate the crank and check with test-light ?

I have extra packs to switch out with but not an extra trigger for a 4 cyl.

 

[The Force power]

Found the problem!! & how I got there;
Nordin, you got me thinking about that blocking diode in these packs; how can I verify this firing issue to see if it's trigger related or pack??
Since the Ohm-readings were good on the trigger, the wires are not shorting-out causing this, SO I started with disconnecting the stator-wire that feeds the #1 side of the pack and #1 STILL fires
then I disconnected the stator-wire that feeds the #2 side of the pack and #1 (and of course #2) don't fire
Installed a "good used" pack & verified the sparking sequence while cranking only. (it was getting late & the wife impatient)
I hope the procedure can help someone else that runs into this problem, since this is not mentioned anywhere in the manual or diagnostics online
to be continued.......