Smoking Engine and Mercruiser ignition switch question

massimofinance

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Hi all- I was winterizing my boat, and, as I was warming the engine up (with the muffs on), about 20 minutes in, the engine starting to smoke a bit- smelt like burnt rubber. The engine stopped by itself, and after a close inspection of the engine (I could not see what was smoking) I tried to turn the engine over and the key wouldn't engage- it spins around completely now. I filmed a video of what it was doing at the time. 2 questions.

What could have been smoking? the only thing I could think about was the belt, and it was fine- it seemed to come from a riser, but I am not sure.

Assume that I need to change out the starter ignition switch. That easy to do?

Thanks all.
 

Fun Times

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What year and engine & stem drive model is in your boat?

So to help clarify, the engine starter electric motor spins but the engine crankshaft/pulleys do not spin?

Were you keeping an eye on the engine temperature? Did the engine get hot and or sound a warning horn?

Rubber component would be the engine coupler to the flywheel, exhaust tubes, belts, sea water pump impeller, water hoses.
 

04fxdwgi25

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sure the hose was turned on to the muffs and there was water flow? Sure sounds like an overheat from no / low water f;ow
 

Mad Dog 2

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May 19, 2013
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With muffs they have to be fitted in the right spot. Often looks good but the engine isn’t getting enough water.
The old soft rubber muffs are better the newer plastic that don’t conform to the curved shape especially when it is cold. Sometimes while running the muffs slip. I have secured muff with bungee cords in the past.
While running keep checking the telltale and the temperature.
 

Lou C

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I noticed the same thing try the Merc/Quicksilver round ones with the clamp they are soft rubber & work well.
 

Lou C

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Also if running on the muffs make sure someone in your house isn’t taking a shower or running the wash; this can drop the water pressure enough that the engine may overheat…
 

massimofinance

Chief Petty Officer
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Oct 30, 2004
Messages
508
What year and engine & stem drive model is in your boat?

So to help clarify, the engine starter electric motor spins but the engine crankshaft/pulleys do not spin?

Were you keeping an eye on the engine temperature? Did the engine get hot and or sound a warning horn?

Rubber component would be the engine coupler to the flywheel, exhaust tubes, belts, sea water pump impeller, water hoses.
1999 210 SunDeck, Mercruiser 5.0L 220hp, Alpha One stern drive. The impeller is stainless steel, so the rubber wasn't that. I had full water flow; I keep an eye on that and never heard the warning buzzer. the hoses, etc., all look fine. For the first time, I used this gas additive; maybe that made it smoke? I think my ignition starter went; it just spins freely and doesn't engage to engage the starter. Will replace that and report back.
 

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cyclops222

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20 minutes on a clamp on cooling collar ? Way way to long. Not surprised engine became way overheated.
 

flashback

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the smell was from the rubber hoses on the exhaust elbows and down tubes, would be my guess.
 

massimofinance

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20 minutes on a clamp on cooling collar ? Way way to long. Not surprised engine became way overheated.
thanks- I was trying to warm up the engine enough to open the thermostats for winterization. Any other tips on getting it hot on muffs?
 

cyclops222

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TOO RISKY that way.
I do it the way all marinas do it. I drain ALL the drain fittings on the engine. No cooked rubber stuff and no ice ups causing damage. Millions of boats get the safe ....open the drains way. every winter.
 

Scott Danforth

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rolmops

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Block busting kits. I love that term. Its exactly how I feel about them. It seems so easy to use. But it is too good to be true
 

Lou C

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People think it's OK to use them because marinas that winterize a lot of boats run AF through to save time but they re-circulate the antifreeze so it stays hot enough to keep the stat open. Doing one boat, that is way too much trouble, just drain it manually like you are supposed to, short cuts can be expensive mistakes especially when you don't understand how raw water cooling works.
 

Scott Danforth

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or the OP is talking about the circulation pump, which does have a brass impeller and a stainless backing plate
 

cyclops222

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There were S S impellors in Commercial Outboard motors made by Everrude & Johansen way back my 1986. Had them as a optional replacement for any sandy areas.
 
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