Slow mode vro

[613-848-9216]

I’ve got a 1989 60hp vro ,work boat/motor, worked great for last 8 yrs. 2nd boat it’s been on. I’ve never had an alarm go off or even heard a beep when key is turned on. Went to start one day,it works daily spring summer and fall,starts fine and idles well but on throttle it’s in slow mode. Didn’t even know about the alarm until I got looking into problems. I’ve tested all,oil low,oil no,overheat. No alarm goes off. Still in slow mode. New power pack. Still in slow mode. Will a bad buzzer put in slow mode. Can I test buzzer another way to see if it works. Volts/ohms. I can’t find an answer anywhere. Still using boat daily(slowly getting to jobs). Anybody know anything about older vro’s

 

[Chris1956]

SLOW mode is triggered by overheat sensor. The overheat sensor grounds a wire that runs to the powerpack and the alarm buzzer. If the buzzer is bad, the motor will still go into SLOW, but the alarm may not sound.

8 years is a long time for an impeller to pump. Was it changed? If not it is time. Also check the thermostat, as they do not last forever.

 

[racerone]

Are you sure that a 1989 60 HP model has the S.L.O.W. feature ?----Post the compression test vaoues.----Does tell tale hose / fitting come off the side of the block or the top ?

 

[613-848-9216]

SLOW mode is triggered by overheat sensor. The overheat sensor grounds a wire that runs to the powerpack and the alarm buzzer. If the buzzer is bad, the motor will still go into SLOW, but the alarm may not sound.

8 years is a long time for an impeller to pump. Was it changed? If not it is time. Also check the thermostat, as they do not last forever.

Thanks. Heat sensor is fine. We’ve tested. On cold start and after running for an hour.

 

[613-848-9216]

Are you sure that a 1989 60 HP model has the S.L.O.W. feature ?----Post the compression test vaoues.----Does tell tale hose / fitting come off the side of the block or the top ?

Compression checked earlier on. All 3 range 102-115. Everything I’ve found online inticates is does have slow mode. We’ve tried pulling individual plug wires under load and get a good misfire headshake on all three. My helper pulled the remote off today and split it. There’s obviously been some past issues with the wiring inside. Got alot of wire splices and poor connections I think. I’m gonna remove remote and bring home for the weekend and clean up the wiring.Would still like to learn if I can feed the alarm a full 12v to see if it works. Or what ohms reading should be through it. Thanks

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Compression checked earlier on. All 3 range 102-115. Everything I’ve found online inticates is does have slow mode. We’ve tried pulling individual plug wires under load and get a good misfire headshake on all three. My helper pulled the remote off today and split it. There’s obviously been some past issues with the wiring inside. Got alot of wire splices and poor connections I think. I’m gonna remove remote and bring home for the weekend and clean up the wiring.Would still like to learn if I can feed the alarm a full 12v to see if it works. Or what ohms reading should be through it. Thanks

Is that a 77 remote box or the one with the big red plug inside the motor. My mechanic back in the day used to put a metal thing inside under the key area to test the alarm. As far as the slow mode the guy just under you in the postings is having similar issues. Lots of historical post on it but most proved to be something else. One thing that does happen, is there is a diod in your harness that if it goes out will cause that condition. From the posts I've read, nobody seems to go fix it.

 

[613-848-9216]

Is that a 77 remote box or the one with the big red plug inside the motor. My mechanic back in the day used to put a metal thing inside under the key area to test the alarm. As far as the slow mode the guy just under you in the postings is having similar issues. Lots of historical post on it but most proved to be something else. One thing that does happen, is there is a diod in your harness that if it goes out will cause that condition. From the posts I've read, nobody seems to go fix it.

Thanks. It’s the one with the big red plug. I’ve tested for continuity from the plug to remote and everything is fine. I finally found a wiring schematic for the remote and am gonna fix up the wiring in there on the weekend. I’ve seen online about the diode but no real indicator of exactly it is located. We did find something today about were the slow signal is sent to,to make it go into limp. I’ve gotta check for those switches and contacts when I get back to motor. Thanks

 

[dingbat]

I’m gonna remove remote and bring home for the weekend and clean up the wiring.Would still like to learn if I can feed the alarm a full 12v to see if it works.

The alarm is a simple open /close circuit.

Power (12v) is applied (constant) to the horn. The offending sensor simply provides the ground path.

As such, any shorts to ground in the circuit will set off the alarm

 

[oldboat1]

Check the powerhead for overheating (160F +). Top of the heads.