Single point drain leaks. Serious? Eliminate it?

KD4UPL

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
671
I have a 2004 Rinker 232 Captiva BR with a Mercrusier 350 Mag and B3 outdrive. It has the single point drain system with 2 blue plugs on the raw water pump, one on the thermostat housing, and one at the bottom right of the engine where all the drain hoses come together in one ball shaped fitting. This particular fitting has a steady drip even though it is as tight as I can get it by hand. I removed the aftermarket metal plug to verify the washer was on there; it was. I swapped back to the original blue plug with different washer. It still dripped.
I can manage the water by just running the bilge pump from time to time. There's never been enough water in the bilge to trip the float but I like to run it manually just to be extra safe.
Questions:
What can I do to stop this drip?
If that plug were removed for some reason with the boat in the water but NOT RUNNING would it just drain the block into the bilge or would lake water come in past the not running raw water pump and just flood the boat?
I hear many people say to just remove the whole drain system and go back to drain plugs. I like this idea. Is there a kit or do you just have to figure it out and rig stuff up?

I have to practically stand on my head beside the engine to even reach this plug. "working" on it isn't happening without removing part of the back seat and part of the floor. This is how you have to access the raw water pump as well. I need to do that and see if maybe the housing is cracked but I haven't pulled it apart that far yet.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
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Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,292
Known as the 'Quick Crack System" I would remove it entirely .Replace the diverter ball with copper piping and just loop the 4 hoses at the front. Install the standard merc drains with the blue plugs. You will be much better off .
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Jul 23, 2011
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49,570
the 3-point and 1-point drain are marketing gimicks and a guaranteed cracked block
 

Grub54891

Admiral
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Jun 17, 2012
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6,077
Those blue plugs don't have a washer. It's an O-ring. it needs to be the proper size to seat properly.
 

KD4UPL

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
671
Okay, I guess there is a difference in an O ring and a washer. I never thought much about it. Anyway, it's whatever circular rubber piece comes with the plug. I am wondering if maybe one got stuck on the hole when I removed the plug and I'm trying to screw the new one in and have two.
Maybe this weekend I'll open up the interior of the boat and take a look.
 

KD4UPL

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 13, 2010
Messages
671
I finally pulled up the removeable floor section to get a good look at tbe drain. The housing had a small crack in the bottom. I applied some JB Weld. We were on the lake for 6 hours yesterday and my bilge stayed dry.
 

tank1949

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Apr 4, 2013
Messages
1,893
Known as the 'Quick Crack System" I would remove it entirely .Replace the diverter ball with copper piping and just loop the 4 hoses at the front. Install the standard merc drains with the blue plugs. You will be much better off .
I had those blue plugs until they crumbled. I went back with 1/2" common thread with lots of sealer, since I didn't trust plastic and engine heat. I would have preferred some sort of pipe threaded drain plug or combination, but I couldn't find one.
 
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