Should I redo the pink RV antifreeze that I already used last week to winterize Merc 5.0?

[kw012]

My first boat in a few decades is a 2001 SeaRay 210 w/Merc 5.0 carb induction. Fresh water used with 360 hours great shape. Last week I got it warmed up on my last ride, pulled it out of the last and got after it while warm. Drained all 5 blue plugs in block and manifolds. Pulled off the thermostat housing starboard upper hose connection; the bottom was hose crimped on and I did not remove it. Spun it over with coil wire detached and more water pumped out. Put back the 5 plugs and added pink coolant into the engine thru the same detached thermostat hose until it came out of the thermostat housing, then connected the hose back to the housing. I did not see how to drain the power steering cooler and am not even sure I know where it is. Two questions: Do I have to do more with the p/s cooler to complete the winterizing? The Merc factory is not mentioning it yet some say I need to do it. Next: Apparently I innocently used an ethanol based pink juice not knowing that a propolyne based liquid exists and is Merc recommended. Then I had the boat wrapped after I pulled my battery. Our lowest off season temps will get to around zero now and then but generally to 10F. For a single off- season looking ahead, is it critical for me to get the ethanol based liquid out of there and replace it with the glycol based with anti-corrosion inhibitor additives? For three months a year this boat sits in a fresh water slip without corrosion protectants. I am wondering also about the effects of the ethanol based liquid on the hoses and other rubber seals, if any. I am leaving the area tomorrow for 10 months so I have to cut open the wrap for access, do the work, and have it resealed before I go if necessary. I am more that a little stressed over this. Thank you in advance. Keith in PA

 

[Grub54891]

Yes, drain the power steering cooler. The pink will get you by, but I'd drain it out myself. If you got enough in to displace any residual water it should be fine. Remember, air don't freeze. be sure the exhaust and block are done. As I said, air don't freeze, I drain mine and leave it sit, but it's a rather old boat-1985. It's just my beater boat till I'm done restoring my other 85 runabout.
Edit: Pink works in the freshwater plumbing just fine, I've winterized water systems by the hundreds, never froze a pipe or pump, and I've seen other people use pink in their motors and it works out just fine. I go for the blue-100 in motors myself for customers. It's good insurance against comebacks.

 

[tpenfield]

The ethanol-based AF's tend to be bad on the plastic parts and seals of the more modern engines. So, the PG-based AF's are preferred for engine winterizing.

Your boat, being older may not have as much to be concerned about in that regard. Since it is done, I'd just leave it. The -50F (pink) stuff is good for about 0˚F before any potential damage to plastic parts. the -60 and -100 varieties are better for sub-zero temps.

 

[Chris1956]

Dump some antifreeze into the raw water hose that runs to the P/S cooler. You should see it run out the water intakes on the outdrive, after it chases the water out.

 

[kw012]

Thank you. I could never see the p/s cooler let along drain it. Is it behind the engine and it doesn't drain with everything else? So it the hoses are drained, it doesnt drain also? If I did see it, a metal tube behind the upper engine area, if not drained is it going to break if and when freezing temps happen?

 

[Chris1956]

Look on the port side of the engine. The raw water hose will run from the thermostat housing to the P/S cooler and then to the outdrive.
You can also trace the P/S hoses to the cooler.

 

[kw012]

Dump some antifreeze into the raw water hose that runs to the P/S cooler. You should see it run out the water intakes on the outdrive, after it chases the water out.

I do not know where that raw water hose is located

 

[kw012]

Yes, drain the power steering cooler. The pink will get you by, but I'd drain it out myself. If you got enough in to displace any residual water it should be fine. Remember, air don't freeze. be sure the exhaust and block are done. As I said, air don't freeze, I drain mine and leave it sit, but it's a rather old boat-1985. It's just my beater boat till I'm done restoring my other 85 runabout.
Edit: Pink works in the freshwater plumbing just fine, I've winterized water systems by the hundreds, never froze a pipe or pump, and I've seen other people use pink in their motors and it works out just fine. I go for the blue-100 in motors myself for customers. It's good insurance against comebacks.

I dumped close to 3 gallons into it and never could find the cooler for sure or its supply hose. The Merc factory book does not talk about the steering cooler for winterizing that I could see. I really don't want to open my wrap job, too but will if necessary

 

[kw012]

I dumped close to 3 gallons into it and never could find the cooler for sure or its supply hose. The Merc factory book does not talk about the steering cooler for winterizing that I could see. I really don't want to open my wrap job, too but will if necessary

 

[kw012]

Look on the port side of the engine. The raw water hose will run from the thermostat housing to the P/S cooler and then to the outdrive.
You can also trace the P/S hoses to the cooler.

I believe I saw that hose. I drained all with the thermostat open and warm engine. Would that p/s hose drain at the time I opened the hose to water pump and spun the engine over?

 

[alldodge]

From what I've read your good
I wouldn't worry about the PS cooler, it's high on the rear of the motor and will drain automatically. A concern would be IF you have a Bravo outdrive, and if so drain the pump.

You said Carb and 5 plugs (2 block, 2 exhaust) so is the other on the raw water pump?

 

[cyclops222]

You have to get all the UNTREATED water out. Or have running water on the first start up next spring. Do post #4 procedure !!
Then relax all winter. I never trust the marina winterizing people to do a .....Very small job like yours. Do it yourself.

 

[kw012]

You have to get all the UNTREATED water out. Or have running water on the first start up next spring. Do post #4 procedure !!
Then relax all winter. I never trust the marina winterizing people to do a .....Very small job like yours. Do it yourself.

I am with you on that!

 

[kw012]

You have to get all the UNTREATED water out. Or have running water on the first start up next spring. Do post #4 procedure !!
Then relax all winter. I never trust the marina winterizing people to do a .....Very small job like yours. Do it yourself.

 

[kw012]

On 2nd thought...do you believe that I did get it all out already having not disconnected to hoses to or from the p/s cooler but pulled the main stat hose to water pump and all 5 engine plugs? Am I good having done that with with a warm engine and open thermostat?

 

[Scott06]

I do not know where that raw water hose is located

Raw water hose on yours is the 1.25” diameter hose that comes along the intake to the rh side of thermostat housing. If you follow it back behind the distributor the ps cooler is on the back of the block/ flywheel cover .

mine never holds water what i do is pull the hose off the thermostat housing and dump some AF in there. It back flows out the outdrive.

I keep a piece of an old radiator hose out it on the thermostat housing and splash a little af in there. I leave mine dry for the winter others back fill with PG AF to cut down on corrosion. Dealers choice….

get a factory manual for your engine it will cover all of the styles of cooling setups and go through winterization step by step

 

[kw012]

TY. I have been thinking about that same hose and I do know the p/s cooler behind the engine after all. I think I am leaving it as drained from the tstat housing plus I poured 3 gallons of antifreeze into the upper end of the water pump hose until it ran full circle and ran out of the tstat housing that was opened up. Warm engine had open stat.