Should I purchase a 60HP 1969 Johnson hydro-electric shift outboard motor?

[Wesley35601]

Good evening all, I'm a new member to this forum and will likely be very active here for a while. I'm finally working on my project boat and have lots of questions. My question is: Should I purchase this used 1969 Johnson 60HP motor? I've attached two photos of the motorhead condition, I see a few worrying bare wire pictures. Here's some background information. My current boat is a 15' PolarKraft Aluminum "bass boat", it is a 1975 model and can safely accept a maximum 60HP remote steering outboard motor. What came with the boat is a 1982 Chrysler 35HP outboard motor. It did run, but has multitudes of issues. My boat could barely, and realistically can't, handle open water on our river safely. Because of this, I'd like to upgrade my motor sizing. And perhaps it wasn't going very fast due to the rough condition of the motor. It was jerry-rigged by the people I bought it from and it needs an estimated $300 in parts to be considered reliable, and I'm worried my bearings are shot due to the presence of water, and those ain't cheap either. So, after months and months of searching, I've found a local seller of this 1969 Johnson 60HP motor. I've discussed with the seller what I'd like to try/see before purchasing. Does anyone have any suggestions for me to try and test this motor? Judging by the wires, it definitely won't start. Seller states all three cylinders have excellent compression and new plugs. I'm definitely going to open the lower unit oil plugs and verify no presence of water. The seller is comfortable with me testing what I need to to purchase this motor. They wanted to sell the boat, trailer, and motor for $500. I've talked them into selling me just the motor for $200-$300ish depending on condition if I think I can make it work. I've ordered the wire needed for re-wiring my Chrysler motor, and that can be repurposed for re-wiring this motor need be. What do y'all think? Is this worth it? Or should I wait? I'm on an extremely limited budget, and really I'm uncomfortable spending $300 since that's most of what I have available right now. I'm a student and work part-time, and might be getting a new job with a much bigger raise soon. However, I'm confident I can sell my Chrysler for near $300 as they are rare and hard to find, at least in my area. But, I'm determined to finish my boat, I bought it primarily for my dad and me to hunt and fish from, and I'm ready to be done. But realistically I don't see the Chrysler being worth the time or money required to fix it. Examples of what's wrong with the Chrysler are as follows; Leaking LU, needs new wires, needs new spark plug wires and ends, needs carb work, needs a solenoid which I have, and the cowling needs work. The original 35 cowling was bashed so it's currently got a 55 cowling we purchased for it. Also, the throttle linkage which is a rod with plastic ends is gone and costs $20, and the hoses need replacing which cost $40-60 from suppliers. So, I know this is a long post, but what are everyone's thoughts? I can provide more pictures if needed/desired. I know I need to check the oil, try and check the hydro-elec gear operation, and what else is suggested? Thank you all in advance!

 

[racerone]

The 60 HP models were marketed n 1970 and 1971.-----Yes the shift can be tested by turning flywheel with an 1-5/16" socket.----Sparkplugs removed.

 

[Wesley35601]

Awesome, I’ll be sure to check the shift conditioning. What are your thoughts on the wire condition? Is that something easily replaceable? I should have plenty of wire, I have some 12,14,16 gauge wire and I also have some of that fiberglass heat shielding to go over the wires if you think I’m able to easily replace them. From the looks of the pictures, most all the wires are shot and need replacement, I’m just hoping they’re good enough for me to check shifting condition of the motor.

 

[racerone]

Find the wires going into the lower unit.-----Green for forward and blue for reverse.-----Apply negative to engine block.----Apply 12 volts + to green wire.----Motor should shift to neutral after one quick turn of flywheel.-----Then add 12 volts to blue as well.----Motor should be in reverse after about 2 turns of the flywheel.------These electric shift units are just wonderful and simple.----That is my opinion and others will argue that fact !

 

[RBoyd1971]

I ran a 65 Evinrude Triumph for over 20 years and never had to do anything to the electric shift part of the motor. It was an early 70's motor. Never had any water in the gearcase either though. I checked it regularly. Seems to me, to be good motors. I hear parts for the lower unit are hard to find though.

 

[racerone]

Used parts are plentiful in my area !

 

[F_R]

Yes, the 60hp motors were good, and state of the art---50 years ago. But you are setting yourself up for a big disappointment if you are buying if with the hope of restoring it cheaply for a couple of rolls of wire. But if you do buy it, make darn sure you get the remote control and wiring harness. There is a shift switch in the control that can set you back $400. Second, while it was state of the art in 1970, by todays standards it was complicated if you don't know how it works and what you are doing. And you can easily blow something like a $$$$ amplifier. Finally, there are other parts that can be hard to find and/or expensive.

Summing up, be careful and think before sinking money into a hole in the water. Just saying.

 

[Wesley35601]

Thank you all! I appreciate all of the helpful feedback. I was searching for replacement parts just to get an idea of what I might be getting into, replacement solenoid system is $250 brand new from the manufacturer. So I will a check operation and go from there. What is y’all’s opinion on preventative maintenance? Aka perhaps changing the lower unit seals, because I plan to replace the impeller first if I do purchase this motor, so would it be best to replace all seals and get a carb kit while I’m at it? It also needs new wires from what I can gather. I should be going to look at it next week sometime. And I’ll definitely be getting the control system, it will need a new key ignition but that’s the only issue I’m aware of with that part. Thanks again!

 

[iggyw1]

I had an electric shift motor a few years back. The only problem that I had with it was the buttons that I had to push down to switch the gears. I had one heck of a time finding a set of the shift buttons as they are not available around me at all. I live in Michigan, and I ended up buying a set of used ones in the state of Oregon and had them shipped to me. At first I thought about just running the motor and changing gears with a three way toggle switch then thought about the fact how dangerous that would be and I did not want to die yet!!!! LOL

 

[Wesley35601]

I'll be sure to keep this thread updated if I purchase this motor. I comp tested my Chrysler and the upper cylinder is bad, pulling 74Psi and the lower is pulling just over 100. I've read a few other posts about comp tests compared to mine, and the top definitely has issues and the bottom is decent. I figure it's not worth fixing as a 60 is what I really want anyway.

 

[RBoyd1971]

Could be as simple as a head gasket though.

 

[racerone]

The solenoids rarely fail on these.----Only use 12 volts when motor is in neutral for the one solenoid.----And 12 volts to both for reverse.----For most applications those solenoids are only used momentarily.-----No power to those solenoids when in forward gear !

 

[Wesley35601]

Good evening to all and a big thanks to everyone who's participated so far. I just wanted to provide a quick update on the current situation. I spoke with the owner today, and I will be looking at this motor on Wednesday, there is a chance of rain, but I'm going to ignore that and hope for the best. The owner said they have the keys, if I bring my battery with me I can here it maybe actually turnover, and I'll be able to compression test and check solenoid operation as well. My first step is to measure and verify this will fit my current setup, then I'm checking for water in the lower unit, then I'll check everything else. Just out of curiosity, how much water, if any, in the lower unit should be concerning? It has been sitting for 1-2 years from what I gather, so I worry about any damage and hope for seeing the best (no water present). If this is all clear, I'll begin the process of carb cleaning, resealing, and changing the impeller after ordering parts. Thanks again to everyone!

 

[racerone]

There should be no water in any modern gearcase.-----They are sealed to keep oil in and water out !

 

[Wesley35601]

Understood... I hope there isn't any, this is one of the best deals on a motor in my area I can find, it's exactly what I need and the seller is honest and friendly. My Chrysler had water in it and I've deemed it uneconomical to repair. Chances are the bearings and gears are going bad or trashed already, my small aluminum boat couldn't handle waves lol! When I'd hit a big wave I'd get stuck on it, I couldn't move fast enough to get off of it, so I was like an entire foot out of the water with the motor powering on the wave lol, (big yacht came through making huge waves, biggest I've ever seen on our river even compared to bad weather days), I don't want to get stuck in that situation ever again, so this 60 is what I need.

 

[Wesley35601]

Update: I have attached more pictures to try and verify the condition of the motor. I looked at it today, and well, the results weren't too good. What do y'all think? I haven't bought it yet but would still like to. Unfortunately, all wiring is gone and several throttle linkage connectors appeared to be missing from the carb. The motor is definitely in forward gear, but unfortunately, the wiring is so bad that the starter doesn't work and I wasn't able to even choke this unit. That's another problem, someone tried to connect the choke together with a tiny spring, it doesn't work. What do you think it would cost to get this fixed? Also, no oil in the lower unit as the screw was gone. Is this bad? Like could it have rusted? I figure it might be good considering no water was allowed to stay in there. Thoughts, questions, or concerns? Thanks all!

 

[Wesley35601]

Also, does anyone know where that random loose hose goes?

 

[Wesley35601]

I just read something that perhaps a bad clipper circuit could've ruined everything else?

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

random loose fitting is for the base of the air silencer. it appears to be missing. the whole setup (used) isn't really that cheap considering you need both the base and cover, the 2 gaskets, and all the screws for both.

 

[ct1762@gmail.com]

i'd consider needing a new reproduction main harness as well. it's just sketchy, in my opinion, trying to repair/splice wires toghether of questionable continuity anyway. the risk of a fire starts creeping up. CDI i think still sells them, or you can use one (used) and hope its in better shape.