Short shaft kicker?

[KJM]

I have found a 12 ft aluminum boat with aluminum trailer and a 2021 yamaha f9.9 short shaft motor for sale for $5000. That seems like a very good price and I wanted a small boat for fresh water fishing. I was hoping the outboard would double as a kicker for my larger boat pictured below. I would get a bracket that could be raised and lowered. Position it roughly where the tie down u bolts are on back which is 18 inches from bottom at that point. The water line on transom is 9 inches at that point. I don't care if I have to remove the trim tabs as they are not powered anyway. I'm most concerned with whether the motor will sit too low to the water when in use and maybe get swamped. Not worried about steering as I would tie into main engine to steer from front. Do you guys think this is feasible or is a long shaft motor a must?

 

[JimS123]

I had a similar size boat with a SS kicker and it worked fine.

Do lots of measurements. In the down position the prop must be below the boat. The waterline should be as "normal" for a SS motor. In the up position the motor should be out of the water on plane.

If you have to remove the transom eye, I wouldn't do it.

Just remember that you may have to bend farther over to set it up.

 

[airshot]

Because you going slow, probably not more than 6-8 mph, having the prop below the bottom of the hull is not necessary. Just make sure the kicker is deep enough in the water to draw what it needs for cooling. I use a little 2.2 hp and mount it to the side of my main motor. The prop does not extend below the hull, doesn't need to as my top speed with it is 5 - 5.5 mph. Works great, allows me to use the main motor to steer. No need for an extra mount and yes the main is a ling and kicker is a short shaft.

 

[KJM]

I had a similar size boat with a SS kicker and it worked fine.

Do lots of measurements. In the down position the prop must be below the boat. The waterline should be as "normal" for a SS motor. In the up position the motor should be out of the water on plane.

If you have to remove the transom eye, I wouldn't do it.

Just remember that you may have to bend farther over to set it up.

why wouldn't you remove transom eye (? tie down ring) ?

 

[QBhoy]

Short shaft will absolutely be perfect on that boat. As long as the bracket it perfectly mounted. And able to be raised and lowered. But unfortunately, where you will want it mounted, means that those trim tabs will be in the way.
I have a bracket on my 19ft cuddy. Use a short shaft on it. I’ve never been as brave to have anything heavy on it. But the way it’s perfectly set up…means that even with a 3.3hp mercury 2 stroke on her, she can see 4mph gps at just under full throttle.
Perfect height so she doesn’t drag in water when on plane. But still able to have the prop below the line of the hull, when lowered. That’s the crucial bit. If it’s not able to get below the line of the hull…she will struggle to get you anywhere. Instead, she will simply pull dead water from behind the transom. Even take air and whirlpool from the surface too. Anything more than a mill pond condition, she’ll gulp air too.
If you’re going to put that heavy engine on a bracket, mind that it’s not just about the rating of the bracket. It’s more about the strength of the way you have the bracket mounted too. Backing plates are essential for an engine that heavy.
Believe me, if not, you’ll worry yourself sick. The forces at play from an engine like that, say right out the back and during a choppy water…not funny ! You’ll be taking about 40kgs or 100lbs out there and bouncing about.

 

[KJM]

Yeah, I was looking at some brackets on Amazon, and they look a little flimsy. I wouldn't feel too secure with an expensive motor hanging off one! I've finally decided to get a long shaft engine as I don't want the power head too low to the water and I don't fancy leaning too much over the back when raising or lowering it as I'm often alone and the ocean around here don't get much above 10C even in the middle of summer. I'll definitely be investing in a sturdy bracket even though they are a bit pricey.

 

[JimS123]

why wouldn't you remove transom eye (? tie down ring) ?

The eye is necessary for proper trailering, mooring, docking, emergency towing, etc, etc. You might be able to move it, but it needs to outboard of the kicker to be useful, and that might not be possible.

Remember, the main and kicker need to have full turning independent of each other. In other words, they need to be far enough apart.

Remember, you will need to remove the trim tabs - both of them. When you do you might not like the way the boat handles any more. They were there for a reason. Regardless, and most of all, those holes (lots of them) need to be professional repaired to preserve your transom. If they weren't sealed right in the first place, you may already have a problem.

 

[JimS123]

Short shaft will absolutely be perfect on that boat. As long as the bracket it perfectly mounted. And able to be raised and lowered. But unfortunately, where you will want it mounted, means that those trim tabs will be in the way.
I have a bracket on my 19ft cuddy. Use a short shaft on it. I’ve never been as brave to have anything heavy on it. But the way it’s perfectly set up…means that even with a 3.3hp mercury 2 stroke on her, she can see 4mph gps at just under full throttle.
Perfect height so she doesn’t drag in water when on plane. But still able to have the prop below the line of the hull, when lowered. That’s the crucial bit. If it’s not able to get below the line of the hull…she will struggle to get you anywhere. Instead, she will simply pull dead water from behind the transom. Even take air and whirlpool from the surface too. Anything more than a mill pond condition, she’ll gulp air too.
If you’re going to put that heavy engine on a bracket, mind that it’s not just about the rating of the bracket. It’s more about the strength of the way you have the bracket mounted too. Backing plates are essential for an engine that heavy.
Believe me, if not, you’ll worry yourself sick. The forces at play from an engine like that, say right out the back and during a choppy water…not funny ! You’ll be taking about 40kgs or 100lbs out there and bouncing about.

That's the answer you need to take heed of.

 

[JimS123]

Yeah, I was looking at some brackets on Amazon, and they look a little flimsy. I wouldn't feel too secure with an expensive motor hanging off one! I've finally decided to get a long shaft engine as I don't want the power head too low to the water and I don't fancy leaning too much over the back when raising or lowering it as I'm often alone and the ocean around here don't get much above 10C even in the middle of summer. I'll definitely be investing in a sturdy bracket even though they are a bit pricey.

I had a 9.9 on an OMC gas cylinder retractable bracket for 35 years. Absolutely awesome piece of equipment. Unfortunately, OMC is out of business. At the time it cost double what their competitors were charging.

Most bracket manufacturers advise to not travel on the highway with the motor mounted. I DID for 35 years, not a problem.

The best ones today (IMHO) are Panther. I have one on my SeaRay. It is comparable in strength to my old OMC.

A good spring or gas loaded bracket is easy to deploy or retract. You don't really have to bend over TOO far. I always wear a PFD when I'm doing it anyway. Your freeboard isn't that high. A SS should be easy to adjust. If you go with a LS, you may not be able to mount it high enough and it'll drag in the water..

 

[KJM]

The eye is necessary for proper trailering, mooring, docking, emergency towing, etc, etc. You might be able to move it, but it needs to outboard of the kicker to be useful, and that might not be possible.

Remember, the main and kicker need to have full turning independent of each other. In other words, they need to be far enough apart.

Remember, you will need to remove the trim tabs - both of them. When you do you might not like the way the boat handles any more. They were there for a reason. Regardless, and most of all, those holes (lots of them) need to be professional repaired to preserve your transom. If they weren't sealed right in the first place, you may already have a problem.

I appreciate the advice, but I've never used the eyes since i got her. I strap her to the trailer with a single long ratchet strap up over the whole boat just ahead of the engine and tie up to the dock with the cleats on the side. I put those trim tabs on myself, they are the nautalus type, not powered, and I don't think they make a big difference anyway. As for the transom, I rebuilt it a few years ago with cooza so I'm not worried about rot, but the holes do get sealed good anyway!

 

[KJM]

I had a 9.9 on an OMC gas cylinder retractable bracket for 35 years. Absolutely awesome piece of equipment. Unfortunately, OMC is out of business. At the time it cost double what their competitors were charging.

Most bracket manufacturers advise to not travel on the highway with the motor mounted. I DID for 35 years, not a problem.

The best ones today (IMHO) are Panther. I have one on my SeaRay. It is comparable in strength to my old OMC.

A good spring or gas loaded bracket is easy to deploy or retract. You don't really have to bend over TOO far. I always wear a PFD when I'm doing it anyway. Your freeboard isn't that high. A SS should be easy to adjust. If you go with a LS, you may not be able to mount it high enough and it'll drag in the water..

Yes I was looking at the panther ones, they seem good. There is one for sale here on FB marketplace for $350. I might see if I can talk him down a bit. I always wear a PDF too the whole time in the boat, I'm not a great swimmer. With the water temps here, even in summer, you aren't going to swim very far anyway. Even with a PDF you won't last too long in the water before hypothermia gets you.

 

[JimS123]

Do as you wish. IMHO, an over the gunnel strap is not suitable for a boat as big as yours.

Also, if an emergency comes up and you have to help another boater with a tow, if you try to use your deck cleats you will be risking life and limb.

Look for the other thread on this site: "Installing a Kicker Bracket". It might interest you since it's a similar question.

 

[KJM]

I had a 9.9 on an OMC gas cylinder retractable bracket for 35 years. Absolutely awesome piece of equipment. Unfortunately, OMC is out of business. At the time it cost double what their competitors were charging.

Most bracket manufacturers advise to not travel on the highway with the motor mounted. I DID for 35 years, not a problem.

The best ones today (IMHO) are Panther. I have one on my SeaRay. It is comparable in strength to my old OMC.

A good spring or gas loaded bracket is easy to deploy or retract. You don't really have to bend over TOO far. I always wear a PFD when I'm doing it anyway. Your freeboard isn't that high. A SS should be easy to adjust. If you go with a LS, you may not be able to mount it high enough and it'll drag in the water..

I don't get the part about not being able to mount a LS high enough? Wouldn't just be a matter of putting the bracket a little higher? Or are you referring to the eye getting in the way?

 

[JimS123]

Yes I was looking at the panther ones, they seem good. There is one for sale here on FB marketplace for $350. I might see if I can talk him down a bit. I always wear a PDF too the whole time in the boat, I'm not a great swimmer. With the water temps here, even in summer, you aren't going to swim very far anyway. Even with a PDF you won't last too long in the water before hypothermia gets you.

This is a Panther, so I can speak from experience. Different setup, though, because a fixed mount works better with my transom.

 

[JimS123]

I don't get the part about not being able to mount a LS high enough? Wouldn't just be a matter of putting the bracket a little higher? Or are you referring to the eye getting in the way?

If you mount it right at the rubrail (in other words, it can't go any higher) and the long shaft is still hanging in the water, then you got a problem. That's why several here have suggested a ss.

 

[QBhoy]

That's the answer you need to take heed of.

Thanks Jim. Yeah…I think it’s so important. Even with a 17/18kg or 40/50 lbs of 2 stroke engine on there…lots of forces at play far out the back and trying to pull and haul at your boat.

 

[KJM]

If you mount it right at the rubrail (in other words, it can't go any higher) and the long shaft is still hanging in the water, then you got a problem. That's why several here have suggested a ss.

Yeah, I was just out measuring and I think you might be right! I would need to put the bracket right up to the rub rail as the eye is 18 in from the bottom of boat which is the length of a short shaft I believe? A long shaft might still be dragging when lifted up. Also the bracket I saw for sale had 10 inches of movement up and down. If the waterline at that point is 8 to nine inches will that be enough to properly clear the water with either LS or SS or will I need a bracket with more travel? Would electric start be a good idea for the kicker as in no reaching down to pull the cord, or would that be a bad idea with salt spray always up around it?

 

[QBhoy]

Yeah, I was just out measuring and I think you might be right! I would need to put the bracket right up to the rub rail as the eye is 18 in from the bottom of boat which is the length of a short shaft I believe? A long shaft might still be dragging when lifted up. Also the bracket I saw for sale had 10 inches of movement up and down. If the waterline at that point is 8 to nine inches will that be enough to properly clear the water with either LS or SS or will I need a bracket with more travel? Would electric start be a good idea for the kicker as in no reaching down to pull the cord, or would that be a bad idea with salt spray always up around it?

you'll also need to think about the trim affect that 100 lbs of engine, set way off to the side and far out, might have. it will be the equivalent of a small adult hanging way off the back end and to the side. I know that less than half that weight on my bracket, certainly has an effect on my deep v and quite narrow 19ft.

 

[JimS123]

will that be enough to properly clear the water with either LS or SS or will I need a bracket with more travel?

10" is about what they all are. I never saw brackets that had higher or lower travels. But, maybe. Look it up.

Would electric start be a good idea for the kicker as in no reaching down to pull the cord, or would that be a bad idea with salt spray always up around it?

Again, I've had SS kickers on every boat I've ever owned since 1968. Never had a problem pulling the cord. Having all that extra weight and complication isn't for my tastes. If you got salt spray you have your work cut out for you anyway, with all the maintenance on BOTH engines.