Shoreline 1900 XLT Riviera (tilt?)

[MasterBaker55]

The missus and I picked up a 1972 24' Fiberform Cabin Cruiser (Merc. 888) project several days ago, and the cleaning phase has revealed a few "gems"...one if which is the trailer on which it's loaded.

Looks to me like a tilting trailer that's been bolted and welded fast (I stopped asking "why" a lonnnng time ago ).

I'm considering grinding the welds off and outting in a proper pin, but I've been unable to find any documentation from Shoreline, and I've never used a tilt trailer, so I'm a bit concerned about unforeseen pitfalls.

Pics attached and any help is always appreciated.

P.S. I can't find the part number for the bolt/nut in the 3rd pic.

 

[GA_Boater]

You need more than the pin for the tilt to be functional. Usually there is a stop chain to limit the tilt angle. Also there should be some sort of latch to lock the tongue when traveling or use a hitch receiver pin and clip to replace the nut and bolt through the tongue. I would leave it be and do a little more welding, the two welds I can see aren't much more tacks.

The bolt and nut in the skeg aren't part of lower unit. Someone used it as a crack stop and did it wrong. That needs welding or replacement.

 

[JimS123]

Your pictures don't indicate it is a tilt. But then again. the view doesn't show the whole thing. The pic shows where the tongue meets the A-frame, and nothing more.

Maybe the PO welded the parts together because it was all rusted inside. Other than rust, there would be no logical reason to weld a tilt.

As an aside, your pic shows a boat cover. If that is a plastic tarp, I can only imagine how much damage that has done to the boat. At 50 years old, most bots of that vintage are totally rotten anyway. Non-breathing poly can only add more insult to the injury.

Post some good pictures of the trailer frame and we can answer your question better.

 

[MasterBaker55]

Your pictures don't indicate it is a tilt. But then again. the view doesn't show the whole thing. The pic shows where the tongue meets the A-frame, and nothing more.

Maybe the PO welded the parts together because it was all rusted inside. Other than rust, there would be no logical reason to weld a tilt.

As an aside, your pic shows a boat cover. If that is a plastic tarp, I can only imagine how much damage that has done to the boat. At 50 years old, most bots of that vintage are totally rotten anyway. Non-breathing poly can only add more insult to the injury.

Post some good pictures of the trailer frame and we can answer your question better.

Here are some more shots from various angles.

The "leave it be" option was tempting at first , but upon further inspection, I think it'd be best to restore it to its original working order...I need to put a brake actuator on it, anyway, and I'm always up for moar research ("skeg", "crack stop", limit-device, designs similar to Shoreline, etc. ).

I'm curious to know under what circumstances (other than launching from a steep bank) a tilt would be useful.

The plastic's only a temporary measure while we clean. Three weeks ago we had to dig the trailer out of 8" of East Texas loam, replace the tires and springs, and then pull her out with a Ford F150 with balding tires...she'll need a lotta TLC (maybe some carbide-tipped "tough love"), and she'll get it.

 

[JimS123]

Your new pictures indicate that it IS a tilt trailer. They are most useful in shallow ramps. Since you have keel rollers, a steep ramp would not need to use the tilt function.

Cut the weld, or not, whatever you like.

I used a tilt trailer for 40 years. Then my town rebuilt the ramp and I never needed to use it after that.

 

[MasterBaker55]

Your new pictures indicate that it IS a tilt trailer. They are most useful in shallow ramps. Since you have keel rollers, a steep ramp would not need to use the tilt function.

Cut the weld, or not, whatever you like.

I used a tilt trailer for 40 years. Then my town rebuilt the ramp and I never needed to use it after that.

All good to know...thanks for the feedback.

It sounds like the tilt option is nice to have, but not absolutely necessary with modern ramps.

So now we're back to safe operation...the bolt that's shown is a 307A, so that's GOT to go, and the welds are corroded (hopefully NOT to the point of weakening the main member)...I tend to the think that welds will never be a good solution there due to regular fatigue cycles (and the fact that the whole thing is freakin' galvanized), so I think I'm gonna look for a good 304SS CW pin and relevant accessories.

Now I just gotta figure out how to find the "skeg".