shifting issue...

[Pipe101]

Read this if you haven't yet

 

[Travis71]

Read this if you haven't yet

Thanks. I’ve seen that page but haven’t read it in detail. There is also someone named Midnight Wolf that has a bunch of info. It seems there is no end of information to try to figure out these shifting issues.

 

[bruceb58]

Just so you know, the Hastings info is out of date for adjusting the shifting and a few other things. Its good history though.

 

[Lou C]

True I think the Midnight Wolf shop manual stuff is more recent....

 

[bruceb58]

True I think the Midnight Wolf shop manual stuff is more recent....

It's a copy of the OMC updated manual.

He used to be on here. He begged for someone to send him the OEM tools so he could copy them. He copied them and then started selling what he made. I personally, think that's not ethical and I would never buy from him.

 

[Lou C]

I was able to buy the OEM tools from a vendor (Crowley Marine) about 10 years ago. However, I don't know if they were generally available then and if they are now. There are other people making copies of those tools, but I do understand your objection Bruce....

 

[Travis71]

Thanks!

I don’t recall, did you install a new cable and/or did you check the cable drag with a fish scale?
this should be checked before setting the adjustment on the transom shift cable. No more that 2.5 lbs with both ends disconnected in both directions .... very important. Sticky cables are what caused the Cobra to have shifting problems in the first place. In fact OMC had a recall on the shift cables; the originals were black the recall cables were red.

Well I got out and took some measurements and the news wasn't great...

1. I measured the remote control shift cable stroke. according to pages on midnight wolf it should be 1 1/4'-1 1/2" fwd and reverse. Reverse was fine, 1 3/8". Forward at full throttle was 1 1/4", which is fine, but I checked it at fwd idle position and it was a little short of that and there was more end play in the cable than at full throttle. I am wondering if this was contributing to the trouble I was having getting it to go into forward gear?
2. I measured the shift rod drag on the vertical drive. I read somewhere (not sure where, been doing lots of reading) that it should be <17 lbs. Mine is 23 lbs. I would not say that it was particularly difficult to shift into gear when I had it all hooked up, but this is certainly out of spec.
3. I measured the transom shift cable drag and it was almost 4 lbs, and sometimes a little more than that to get it unseated and moving in one direction or the other.

So now my question is what do I do about all this?

 

[Pipe101]

I'd be replacing the transom shift cable. A maximum of 2.5lbs and preferably less. If the bell crank was nice a free cable is were to start.

 

[Travis71]

While waiting for the experts to chime in my mind has been working on this problem and I have been researching the internet looking for clues.

I found references to bent shift rods causing excessive drag so I unscrewed my rod and pulled it up far enough to put a straight edge on it and it is slightly bent. The bend starts at the point where it passes through the shift rod cover. From there to the top it bends about 1/32", maybe a little more. It is very slight, but definitely there. So do I buy a new one (~$120), try to straighten this one, or buy a used one (~$40) and hope it is straight.

Also, can I remove the core wire from the transom shift cable and try to clean everything up to reduce drag or is that just a wasted effort/completely unviable?

 

[Travis71]

I'd be replacing the transom shift cable. A maximum of 2.5lbs and preferably less. If the bell crank was nice a free cable is were to start.

I rotated the bell crank-shift lever assembly without interference from shift cable and it moves with negligible effort so it has to be the cable.

 

[Travis71]

been shopping for a shift cable. There is a considerable range in pricing. There are "OEM quality aftermarket" cables and then "genuine" cables, some are "new, old stock" items. The aftermarket ones are roughly half the price of the genuine cables. Any known problems with the aftermarket cables?

 

[Lou C]

I can’t say the aftermarket cables aren’t good because I haven’t used one. But I can say when I bought this Boat in 2002 it had an OEM cable in it which it still has on it and the last time I set up the cable adjustment the drag was well under the spec. The key to making them last it to store the boat with the drive down so the cable jacket where it goes into the pivot housing does not get cracks in it which lets in water and causes corrosion and a sticky cable.
On the Cobra I would use OE as long as I could get them for:
driveshaft bellows
impeller
shift cable

These are all “mission critical” parts....

 

[Lou C]

Start with a new shift cable don’t bother with trying to just replace the core wire...and get a straight shift rod. At 4 lbs drag no wonder you had problems. Glad you checked it eh? Start with those two things and then see where it brings you...also what remote control do you have? OE OMC or aftermarket? There were problems with aftermarket controls esp on Bayliner. I still have the OE OMC control on my 88 Four Winns....

 

[Travis71]

Start with a new shift cable don’t bother with trying to just replace the core wire...and get a straight shift rod. At 4 lbs drag no wonder you had problems. Glad you checked it eh? Start with those two things and then see where it brings you...also what remote control do you have? OE OMC or aftermarket? There were problems with aftermarket controls esp on Bayliner. I still have the OE OMC control on my 88 Four Winns....

Definitely glad I checked it...just hard to believe that it makes that much of a difference because it doesn't feel hard to move it.

I guess I'll bite the bullet and pay for a true OEM shift cable. I found one for $170 with free shipping...about the best price I can find.

I still have the OE OMC remote control. It's a little "scratchy", like maybe its a little dirty, when moving forward and backward but i can push it with just two fingers so it isn't stiff. I considered taking it off and trying to clean it, but I don't know how difficult that would be. I have access behind the panel it is mounted to without removing anything. Just not sure I want to open that can of worms right now.

 

[Travis71]

Well I finally got the new shift cable installed and got it all put back together. With the new shift cable the drag was less than 2 lbs. The old shift cable had a permanent bend in it, probably from being stored with the drive tilted all the way up for the last 10-12 years. I think that is what caused the excessive drag.

Anyway I did all the adjustments in the back yard and took it to the lake this evening to check it out...and IT WORKED!!

I am so excited to have the boat shifting properly now!!

Thanks to everyone who chimed in to help me solve this issue...very pleased and satisfied to have been able to accomplish it myself...not to mention the money I saved!

 

[bruceb58]

Now, just keep your drive stored in the down position. Not only is it easier on your shift cable but its easier on your bellows.

 

[Lou C]

Agree 100%, I have been storing mine down since I’ve had it and, the bellows last an average of 10 years before I see any little cracks and the shift cable is the one on the boat when I bought it in 2002. If these drives are maintained and set up right with a good cable, OE bellows and impeller, they can really last a LONG time, mine has had a hard life of being moored in salt water 6 months out of the year, for approx 15 seasons worth. Once you master the shift cable adjustment you are officially a Cobra Jedi lol!

 

[Travis71]

Once you master the shift cable adjustment you are officially a Cobra Jedi lol!

I feel more like a padawan! :lol: