Shift interrupter operation and adjustment after restoration

[Junkyardroad]

Rainy and cold here today. I went back out and reset the cables and relubed pivots. Also endless detail work like snap retainers for the cushions, and rubber bumpers on the windshield.

I have not completed an engine cover, so the engine and bilge is fully exposed to the atmosphere. So while I hear and understand concern about the J-1711 standard, I think it'll be ok for the splash and break in and tuning.

There's just no money left for this project for a bit. When I catch up, I'll get the replacement distributor/ignition. Amazon? had one listed at $511.

I have a roll of thick carbon fiber and a good sized roll of Kevlar that I'm going to use for the upper engine housing. Boat resto has been a great way to learn and try out new things. When this project is complete, I may pick up some extra cash with that sewing machine.

When I get this to the lake maybe next week, I'll report back weather I was successful in making it all work.

 

[Junkyardroad]

When converting your ignition to HEI from Thunberbolt IV/V, set up the factory shift cable and shift interruptor per the manual, just as it was designed. Connect the green/white wire from the interruptor microswitch to the tach wire at the distributor. This same wire previously went to the TB IV distributor contact marked grn/wht. Your shifter, interruptor, and tach will work exactly as designed. The tension on the shift cable casing, under load, does in fact cause the actuating lever assembly to rotate which closes the normally open switch, which then briefly causes the engine to stumble allowing a shift.

Once I figured out the system it worked perfectly on the first try.

Hope this helps someone out.