Shift control replacement

[wdwrlw22]

So I needed a new shift control. I have a 1999 Sea Ray SD 210 with the 5.0 with 2bbl. Carb.
I ordered and installed the new Mercury controller and as I was ready to wire it up I realized the connection do not match. After investigating I ordered the outboard controler not the Sterndrive.
Is it possible to make this work? The new remote has a 3 pin molex connection and my boat currently has a 4 pin. The old remote had a trailer button and the new one does not. I went from a Commander 3000 to the MPC 4000.
I and good at soldering but I am not sure the differences in wiring.

 

[dubs283]

3 options I see:

1. Return the controller and order the sterndrive one

2. Bypass the harness connection at the controller with butt connectors, bypass the limit switch connection at the trim pump and use the current controller with no limit or trailer function

3. Wire in a divorced trailer switch

 

[wdwrlw22]

I’m debating #1 but option #2 is possibly doable.
Do you have more details to offer on option 2. I don’t need trailer as the new remotes don’t offer it, so I feel like they bypass it anyway just in a harness that connects..

 

[dubs283]

I don’t need trailer as the new remotes don’t offer it

All new mercury brand mechanical shift sterndrive remotes have a trailer button. DTS uses relays on the engine and a single gimbal ring mounted switch to control tilt/trim and guage output/signal as the ecm and smart craft system use digital signals opposed to analog

Aside from explaining step by step I cannot offer any more information for option #2.

The only caveat for #2 is to be aware of how far out/up the drive is trimmed with the engine running

 

[Scott06]

Do yourself a favor and get the correct controller. To do number 2 you would need to be able to read the wiring diagram and make the appropriate splice connections.

As mentioned the trailer button is only needed to keep you from over trimming at speed. Can be an issue with U joints if you all folks driving boat can use the trim gauge or SWAG like we had to do back in the day (no trim gauge...)

 

[stresspoint]

yep + 1 , get the correct control , you don't want to be driving a boat that if you are trimming up there is no limit.
what could go wrong there .

 

[wdwrlw22]

Well it’s option 2. Not a returnable item. My mistake. Live and learn. In the mean time,
Looks like the purple and Blue can be spliced together.
Blue is the up signal and purple is the trailer. Will make a harness and start testing.
I will lose the trim limit function but who on earth will trim there drive slap outta the water while running.

 

[stresspoint]

Well it’s option 2. Not a returnable item. My mistake. Live and learn. In the mean time,
Looks like the purple and Blue can be spliced together.
Blue is the up signal and purple is the trailer. Will make a harness and start testing.
I will lose the trim limit function but who on earth will trim there drive slap outta the water while running.

you would be surprised how easy it happens accidently , iv personally done it many times in the past with outboards.
the original owner of my Maxum rigged the trim such as you are considering ,instead of fixing a tiny bit of corrosion on a trim limiting switch,
it was a PIA to say the least. especially when beaching in shallow water , driving onto the trailer or when racing a mate in another boat ..
each to there own !.
i am sure someone here can draw up a diagram that will in cooperate a separate trailer button and keep your control swatch for trimming only.
it cant be that hard to do ??.

 

[Steveu23]

What did you do? I'm in the same boat, outboard control box bought in error and installed only to find out the wires don't tie out. Trim works, but boat won't start just turns over