3 wires. Yes it is a Thunderbolt. I had bought a new module years ago, found that wasn't the problem and sold it. hindsight
3 wires. Yes it is a Thunderbolt. I had bought a new module years ago, found that wasn't the problem and sold it. hindsight
Puzzled, you sold the 3 wire sensor?3 wires. Yes it is a Thunderbolt. I had bought a new module years ago, found that wasn't the problem and sold it. hindsight
it is a 3 wire. I'm a little leary of connecting the coil to ground with the spark gap tester. Was that the coil side or distributor side of the coil connection?
Sorry, no, I sold the $500 ECU module I didn't need. How does that distributor module come out? I have to remove the distributor or just the cap to access it?
We are way out into the twilight zone here or your not understanding what I'm talking about. Guessing we are not on same page
Yes, I understood what you were talking about but had the ecu on my mind when you referenced thunderbolt. I always assumed the ecu was part of that. So again, referring to the diagram to test the module. I connect the sparkgap to the "COIL" and ground it, then tap the green/wht fast to ground to see if it sparks while the key is in run position?
Should have spark doing this test
did test despite having new coil delivred last night. failed test and put in coil. wouldn't ya know it. old one had maybe 40 hours or less but had been sitting for 4 years. don't know why last summer it fired and last fall it wouldn't, but in the past now. idled a little rough at about 650 rpm and oil pressure only registered about 50-55 with throttle, good?
Oil pressure 50-55 is really good, usually a cold reading as oil thins when engine gets warm. good rule of thumb is when oil is warm to have 10 psi for every 1000 rpm of engine speed. I usually have about 55-60 at 4000-4500 when good and warm. more if the lake is still cold