Service mariner 1989 60hp outboard

[lucianv]

Ok, then I will do like you say.
Thanks a lot for all help

 

[lucianv]

Hi again all. Meanwhile I disassembled a lot of parts, ordered a lot of gaskets (was expected to be cheaper ) and now I have some questions which answers I wasn t able to find them in the manual.

1 - When I lifted up the engine from the boot I found that piece of rubber which I have no idea where is from. Can you help me identify to order a new one ?


2 - What is that part that I marked with orange? I see is somehow damaged and want to order a new one


3 - What is that spot for? It was empty but probably there has to be fitted something...do you have any idea?


4 - On the cylinder head there is an wire which most probably is used for grounding (was grounded when i take the cover off). The issue is that I feel it like is almost broken, even if i treat it very gentle. Is there any way to replace it somehow ?


5 - On the lower unit there is a hose that came out and has a stopper on the free end. What is this for? Can I just remove it and put a stopper directly on the lower unit?


6 - How can I take off the water pump piece that is on the lower unit? (I ordered a new water pump complete in order to change it)


7 - On the engine block, on the carbs area, there is a hose which is split in 2 and go into the motor. I assume that is from an oil injector? Can I remove them and put some stoppers on the block ? I don t have any oil mixer and anyway will use directly mixed gasoline with the engine


8 - I removed also trim in order to clean it, paint it and replace seals and gaskets ...anyway the previous owner seems didn t change the anode when it should and beside that he painted it in red ......
The result is that on the trim cylinder there is something which looks like the material from the anode and is somehow melted/submitted on the cylinder ...any idea how can I remove that for clean up the cylinder and apply a new paint on it? (of course the anote will be changed with a new one)




Thanks a lot again for all your help. Very much appreciated

 

[racerone]

Picture #5 is a hose to feed pressure to a speedometer.-----Post close up picture of the spline at the bottom of the crankshaft.----Picture #2 shows where the water pipe attaches.----That part may not be available and you have to make a new one.-----Picture #4 show the temperature warning switch.-----Did you post compression test values before?-----If not then do a test now and post the numbers.

 

[lucianv]

Thank you very much
2 - That can be an issue ....I guess I will have some problems with that.

5 - I will remove it since I will not attach a speedometer anyway to it.

Compression test is in first post of this topic. I decided to go further and restore it after I take compression on it.

Here are the pictures you asked


Do you think I should remove that part also (the one noted 1144-6690) ?

Thank you

 

[racerone]

Motor may have overheated.-----Rust on spline is not as bad as I thought in earlier picture.------I am going to be blunt here.----Yes remove that bearing / seal housing.---But in my opinion you should remove bypass cover.------Post picture of pistons and rings.----Be a shame to do all the cleaning and paint work only to find that motor is junk.-------So take this motor all apart !!----Replace bearings.-----And oil seals.----Then you know what you have and can trust it.-----

 

[lucianv]

Don't have pictures of pistons but sice the compression is good I assume they should be kind of ok....

 

[racerone]

Easy to look at the pistons and cost you a $10.00 ( 10 euros ? ) gasket.----That motor is not one of my list of good designs.----Your motor so do as you like !

 

[lucianv]

I found some pictures but i don t think these are relevant ..



Is not about the gasket, but again..if the compression is fine I considered not to make it all pieces... wasn t I right on this?
I mean can be possible that compression is ok and pistons or rings not to be ok?

 

[racerone]

I would take it apart !!

 

[lucianv]

Ok, I will take that in count then...was not included in my plan but if you say so...basically I am writing here for asking help so that means listen to what you have to say

Thanks again.
Still remain open questions from the list

 

[merc850]

I think you need the Mercury factory manual to get all the facts (tork settings, what hose goes where etc.) In image: 1 the rubber piece is put on the driveshaft to prevent it from rusting onto the crankshaft, the red painted anode should be discarded and a new one put in its place - it is meant to disintegrate to protect the submerged parts of the motor. Do not paint it.
The bolt holes that have corrosion in them should be flushed with water and a thread CHASER (not a tap) run thru them with oil.

 

[lucianv]

I think you need the Mercury factory manual to get all the facts (tork settings, what hose goes where etc.) In image: 1 the rubber piece is put on the driveshaft to prevent it from rusting onto the crankshaft, the red painted anode should be discarded and a new one put in its place - it is meant to disintegrate to protect the submerged parts of the motor. Do not paint it.
The bolt holes that have corrosion in them should be flushed with water and a thread CHASER (not a tap) run thru them with oil.

I bought a manual from ebay before start working on the motor but this is my first outboard(and also boat) so my experience is still very limitated.

I know the anode have to be changed and I know it should not be painted, but how can I clean up the trim cylinder ?

Thank you

 

[merc850]

That Seloc manual is the Reader's Digest version of the Mercury one, I found a downloadable one with a simple search of etsy, is that the trim cylinder in question 8 left side? I don't recognize it.
To remove the waterpump base remove the all the screws in the lower unit and drain the gear lube then use 2 screwdrivers to pry the base out of the housing there might be shims in there so be careful.
If you don't have one get a tachometer for setting up carb adjustments and propping.

 

[lucianv]

Hi, yes is the trim cylinder.

I already ordered a tacho and lamp for set up timing and carbs when I will get that step
Thanks

 

[lucianv]

Hi again,
I put all pieces back together, new gaskets, new screws, new hoses, new coils, etc but I get some issues with spark on the one cylinder. First I replaced the coil but same result and then I switched wires from CDI and issue moved with the wire. So basically the coil on the middle wire (the marked one) has no spark. This means the CDI is broken and needs replaced or there is something else I can do(replacing this will be at least 2 weeks more for me ( )



Thanks a lot

 

[lucianv]

Guys? Anyone?

 

[Faztbullet]

Swap the trigger wires around ,if that terminal still doesnt fire then replace switchbox...

 

[lucianv]

ah, you mean if i swap trigger wires and that terminal will fire then is trigger the faulty one right?
If that terminal still not fire then is cdi.

thanks

Still wondering how a cdi can be broken when just stay few months in a box...

 

[lucianv]

Get back with some news and questions.
Finally today arrived my new CDI box. I also ordered a trigger just in case.
Now, before put it on the engine I want to build a dva for get some measurements (already purchased parts today)
Till now I checked stator and trigger with all wires disconnected and got the results:
1 - Stator test
BLUE - GND = 6Kohm - specs = 5.8-7 K
RED - GND = 149 ohm - specs = 135 - 165 ohm

2 - Trigger test
All trigger wires disconnected
BROWN - BLACK = 1.3 K
WHITE - BLACK = 1.18 K
PURPLE - BLACK = 1.23 K
specs for all 3 is in range 0.8 - 1.4 K

My question is how should be the wires from the stator and trigger while I will measure voltage with dva ?(I will measure at cranking speed and I have already all spark plugs grounded (for notice if they spark))
So is there any dva measure procedure for stator and trigger ?

Thank you very much