Serial id. Help

[NorinRadd]

Been trying to find what year, model and length sterndrive I have. Believe its a 290. Heres a photo of serial for anyone who knows

 

[captmello]

post a pic of the entire outdrive

 

[Scott Danforth]

That's the part number tag for the transom shield. By the part number, most likely a 290a. Used behind everything from a 3.0 to a 454 and some diesels

You need to get the serial number off the transmission input bearing section to identify the drive. However over the past 40 years, it may or may not be original to the boat

You may also want to get the engine serial number off the tag above the starter or if the original sticker on the starboard valve cover is still there

Post pics of the motor and the drive

Year is approx 1987-1989

 

[NorinRadd]

post a pic of the entire outdrive

Its a 290. I know that. Just want specifics

 

[NorinRadd]

That's the part number tag for the transom shield. By the part number, most likely a 290a. Used behind everything from a 3.0 to a 454 and some diesels

You need to get the serial number off the transmission input bearing section to identify the drive. However over the past 40 years, it may or may not be original to the boat

You may also want to get the engine serial number off the tag above the starter or if the original sticker on the starboard valve cover is still there

Post pics of the motor and the drive

Year is approx 1987-1989

I know its a 290 with an aq151a. Just want specifics

 

[Scott Danforth]

You have an AQ151 motor with an SP290a drive. The AQ151 is a motor/drive package

It looks clean

Make sure to grease the PDS

Pull the drive and do a full drive maintenance

Check the PDS shaft for play. If there is any, pull the motor and rebuild the PDS assembly with new bearings and seals

Replace the bellows ( with OEM)

Being 35-37 years old. The trim cylinders should be resealed

Get a factory motor manual and the factory drive manual

How is the compression

 

[NorinRadd]

You have an AQ151 motor with an SP290a drive. The AQ151 is a motor/drive package

It looks clean

Make sure to grease the PDS

Pull the drive and do a full drive maintenance

Check the PDS shaft for play. If there is any, pull the motor and rebuild the PDS assembly with new bearings and seals

Replace the bellows ( with OEM)

Being 35-37 years old. The trim cylinders should be resealed

Get a factory motor manual and the factory drive manual

How is the compression

It’s extremely clean. Kept in heated garage. Everything works great had it out tons last year. Selling the motor /drive and converting to pod and outboard.

 

[captmello]

can you tell me what the fitting and plate are that are clamped to the drive? I've never seen that.

 

[garbageguy]

that looks like the hardware that was on an 80's aluminum I/O outdrive with a 9.9 hp kicker (trolling motor in those days for the Lake) - it was the hardware that connected the drive to the kicker so you could steer the tillered kicker with the outdrive (steering wheel)

 

[Scott Danforth]

Yep, remote link to the kicker

Not sure I would swap to a pod. Most regret it

 

[NorinRadd]

Yep, remote link to the kicker

Not sure I would swap to a pod. Most regret it

Yeah I have the link for it. Works great.

Talked to dozens of folks. Nobodies regretted it. The only people who regret it have shitty pods built that dont flow with the hull and the boat porpoises and loses control constantly. If theyre done right theyre great.

Also old inboards suck. Why would anyone want one unless they want to restore. Theyre extremely loud for a 4cyl, smoky as a coal train, parts are hard to find an expensive. Take up tons of room. This boat will have so much room
In the back with it gone. Why would you keep?

 

[stresspoint]

? why would anyone want a boat with an inboard , simple answer , if the hull design was never meant for an outboard ,the boat will never be right with one ,
the boat built with inboard even with all the things some don't like about the inboard the boat is still is better of with the inboard motor and drive.
manufactures build and design hull differently for outboard motors , strength and rigidity is built inti different parts of the hull when building.
bottom s are always different , strakes , chines+ many other aspects of the hull are made to suit.

i have rode in and drove a few converted boats and they just don't seem right to me for many reasons, #1being the way boats with a pod fitted tend to slide uncontrollably cornering if trim is not constantly corrected.

unless i was going to put a brand new 4 stroke and get the hull balanced to suit , i believe its cheaper and easier to just sell up and buy a boat built with a outboard.

 

[Scott Danforth]

It's your money, but ^he is right about the balance and design

 

[NorinRadd]

? why would anyone want a boat with an inboard , simple answer , if the hull design was never meant for an outboard ,the boat will never be right with one ,
the boat built with inboard even with all the things some don't like about the inboard the boat is still is better of with the inboard motor and drive.
manufactures build and design hull differently for outboard motors , strength and rigidity is built inti different parts of the hull when building.
bottom s are always different , strakes , chines+ many other aspects of the hull are made to suit.

i have rode in and drove a few converted boats and they just don't seem right to me for many reasons, #1being the way boats with a pod fitted tend to slide uncontrollably cornering if trim is not constantly corrected.

unless i was going to put a brand new 4 stroke and get the hull balanced to suit , i believe its cheaper and easier to just sell up and buy a boat built with a outboard.

Not if I can sell my leg and motor for the price of a pod and I already have an outboard ready to go