Separate intermediate housing?

Rranger

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Got a 225 OMC. Can I separate the white part in pic from the blue part? And do it from outside the boat? Outdrive is already removed. I see where the two blue pieces seperate. Can that be done from outside the boat?
 
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Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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No pics

The drive upper and lower can come off from outside

The intermediate comes out of boat with motor AS AN ASSEMBLY
 

kenny nunez

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Jun 20, 2017
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Once the boot is removed. The intermediate housing can be separated from the exhaust/flywheel housing. A Ford 1/2” distributor wrench comes in handy for reaching some of the tight nuts. Remove the intermediate shaft first and hopefully it is not rusted it the drive coupler. Also if it has the internal steering that also has to be removed.
It usually takes some prying to break it loose.
 

Rranger

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
449
Once the boot is removed. The intermediate housing can be separated from the exhaust/flywheel housing. A Ford 1/2” distributor wrench comes in handy for reaching some of the tight nuts. Remove the intermediate shaft first and hopefully it is not rusted it the drive coupler. Also if it has the internal steering that also has to be removed.
It usually takes some prying to break it loose.
Thanks Kenny has power steering so that should help. So I guess get that drive coupler popped off first. And hopefully the nuts aren’t seized on the flywheel housing.
 

Rranger

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
449
Once the boot is removed. The intermediate housing can be separated from the exhaust/flywheel housing. A Ford 1/2” distributor wrench comes in handy for reaching some of the tight nuts. Remove the intermediate shaft first and hopefully it is not rusted it the drive coupler. Also if it has the internal steering that also has to be removed.
It usually takes some prying to break it loose.
Kenny Are either of these ok? I like the rachet attachment ones.
 

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kenny nunez

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The one on the right looks just like mine. You will need it on the lower nuts.
A socket with extensions works on the upper ones. Good luck
I sent you a private message some time ago with my phone# if you have any questions.
 

Rranger

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May 18, 2009
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449
The one on the right looks just like mine. You will need it on the lower nuts.
A socket with extensions works on the upper ones. Good luck
I sent you a private message some time ago with my phone# if you have any questions.
I’m waiting on the wrench should be here tomorrow. Just have 4 nuts left to remove. The steering I’m not sure about how to remove it from the housing.
 

froggy1150

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Nov 3, 2017
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Cable drum? If I remember right you rotate the drum until you can see the screw that locks the drum to the gear shaft. It's under the cables on the drum. Then you can pull the shaft. Then remove the bolts that hold the bracket and it should come off.
 

Rranger

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May 18, 2009
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Trying to remove the steering cable from the intermediate housing. Have removed the set screw holding the steering shaft in place, and unbolted the piece where the steering cables attach to the intermediate housing. But steering shaft will rotate and slide back and forth a 1/2" but remains stuck in the part connecting it to the housing. Will not budge. is there something locking the steering shaft at the steering connection to the housing? I'm told pull the set screw and steering shaft should slide right out.
Also couldn't load a picture said failed because the file could not be written to the server. The site administrator will need to resolve this before any files can be uploaded.
 

Rranger

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May 18, 2009
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Why am I getting a no picture message, and not able to load pics?
 

Rranger

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May 18, 2009
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Yes steering is unhooked all 14 nuts off. Still stuck on might need a little persuasion tomorrow.
 

kenny nunez

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Jun 20, 2017
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They do take some leverage to break loose. I used to use a 4’ piece of 2”x4” which worked good. They are thick enough to get in front of the raised boss while using the edge of the hole as the fulcrum point. I must have replaced at least 20 of them over the years. Be careful scraping the old gasket off the exhaust housing as the edges are not very wide.
Be sure to not lose the small plastic bushing that goes on the front of the steering shaft.
The steering is 3 turns lock to lock. Center it and make sure the drive is also in the straight ahead position before re installing. That way you will have a full 90* of steering swing.
Just call if you have any more questions.
 

Rranger

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
449
They do take some leverage to break loose. I used to use a 4’ piece of 2”x4” which worked good. They are thick enough to get in front of the raised boss while using the edge of the hole as the fulcrum point. I must have replaced at least 20 of them over the years. Be careful scraping the old gasket off the exhaust housing as the edges are not very wide.
Be sure to not lose the small plastic bushing that goes on the front of the steering shaft.
The steering is 3 turns lock to lock. Center it and make sure the drive is also in the straight ahead position before re installing. That way you will have a full 90* of steering swing.
Just call if you have any more questions.
10/4 waiting on new housing service it and get it back together.
 

Rranger

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May 18, 2009
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449
My new tilt motor hopefully here today or tomorrow and then I can put the intermediate housing on and then get the drive back on.
 

kenny nunez

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Jun 20, 2017
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There needs to be a thin washer on either side of the spring loaded coupler to keep it centered. They were plastic originally but I have used thin steel ones.
 

froggy1150

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Nov 3, 2017
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I made some out of a plastic package. The thicker kind that's melted together and cannot be opened without danger to life and finger. Worked well
 
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