Separate coolant lines for elbows?

[nateo]

Ok so I'm in the process of converting my Single Point Drain System to multi point. I'm debating whether to replace my exhaust gaskets to full flow and plug the elbow or install the tee in the top of thermostat housing. Any reason why the former would not work / is one preferred over the other?

 

[Bt Doctur]

to simply remove the single point crack system just replace the manifold fittings with fittings with the blue drain plugs, remove the engine block drains and install brass drain plugs, remove or cap the hose ports in the pipe.
You can leave the water distribution plastic ball or replace it with some copper fittings and a drain plug.

 

[QBhoy]

If it's a V engine, I'm not sure you need to replace all the fittings. I have the single point drain system on the 5.0 mpi...on mine you can easily just undo the fittings to allow secure piece of mind draining.

 

[nateo]

Already ripped out distribution housing, replaced hoses and fittings. In the 7 point drain cooling diagram it shows a hose going to both the bottom of the manifold as well as as a hose to the elbow. Just wondering why one would go with this setup vs plugging the elbow and using full flow gaskets all around (as chris mentiioned in this thread http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...573-eliminating-the-single-point-drain-system). Plugging the elbow would save about $150 and make the manifolds cooler? "Seems" like a win win. I should mention that I have 1.7" risers. The service manual I have doesn't make mention of this riser size. Wondering if it would still be advisable with 1.7" risers.

 

[Scott06]

I belive the warm manifold set up was done to keep condensation in the manifold from getting in the engine by allowing the manifolds to heat up with the engine. The gaskets between manifold and elbows should have a lip on it to keep moisture from rolling down into the manifold. IMHO I'd stay with what you have, while it may be cheaper to ditch this I think you need a different thermostat housing to convert over as your current set up has the t with check balls feeding the elbows

 

[nateo]

I belive the warm manifold set up was done to keep condensation in the manifold from getting in the engine by allowing the manifolds to heat up with the engine. The gaskets between manifold and elbows should have a lip on it to keep moisture from rolling down into the manifold. IMHO I'd stay with what you have, while it may be cheaper to ditch this I think you need a different thermostat housing to convert over as your current set up has the t with check balls feeding the elbows

Roger, thank you.