jim j geezer
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- May 16, 2012
- Messages
- 189
Try to imagine....
That your neighbor is running a vocational shop for small engines & outboards at a community college. Suddenly he drops dead and the class goes away. The college auctions off all the 'stuff', including a nice-and-tight 7.5HP Sea King. Time passes and you see a $30 bargain on Craigslist for that outboard, and so you pounce...
Off the bat there's an apparent fuel delivery problem because you can get it to "cough"-"sputter"-"run" for a second or two if you squirt fluel into the carb throat before cranking. Off comes the carb.
Not so fast! It ain't cooperating. Seems the reed valve assy is reluctant to part company with the carb. You arrange an amiable seperation and get the carb & attached (Tillotson) fuel pump off. Reed valves look pristine. Upon dropping the float bowl, evidence of crud presents. 1/3 of a can of carb cleaner later, you pronounce the carb fit for duty & reinstall. SAME thing!
Offit comes again with an eye toward the fuel pump (which had stubborn screws). Apart it comes, and reveals a little crud, AND............ some good news! It has a teflon diaphragm in good shape. Clean, reassemble and put it back together. SAME thing!
Start looking HARD at the fuel pump and the 2 hoses leading thereto: Vac & fuel. Why is the vac line attached to the side of the fuel pump that feeds the carb? The plastic hoses appeared to be original equipment and were all but petrified to hold their shapes. It didn't seem likely that someone wouldd have or COULD have switched 'em. Unless....
Both hoses were completely removed - instead of just at one end. New rubber lines are now in place with the vac line going to the OUTside of the pump and the fuel line going to the INside of the pump.
Squeezed the primer bulb until it got hard and tried again. SAME thing!
Removed the powerhead hose from the male quick-connect and pressed the primer bulb. zilch
Juryrigged some 1/4" copper tubing to bypass both quick-connects. Got fuel to leak outta the carb!
wunnerful
Now it won't even pop.
Cranked until........... the recoil rope broke.
*sigh*
New line and a lube job on the recoil makes it like new.
Crank s'more. No pop.
Pulled the flywheel.
The end of the plug wire that was SUPPOSED to be coming outta the coil was flapping in the breeze 3/8" away from the hole. Someone had tried to glue it but...
*Protip* If you're gonna glue a wire in place... CLEAN it first! I used "Goop" 'Automotive' glue & a wire tie.
That got me reliable spark and enabled me to get it to start & run.
Sort of...
It starts easily enough and idles down OK (I think), but if I advance the throttle after popping it in gear it sounds...
W
That your neighbor is running a vocational shop for small engines & outboards at a community college. Suddenly he drops dead and the class goes away. The college auctions off all the 'stuff', including a nice-and-tight 7.5HP Sea King. Time passes and you see a $30 bargain on Craigslist for that outboard, and so you pounce...
Off the bat there's an apparent fuel delivery problem because you can get it to "cough"-"sputter"-"run" for a second or two if you squirt fluel into the carb throat before cranking. Off comes the carb.
Not so fast! It ain't cooperating. Seems the reed valve assy is reluctant to part company with the carb. You arrange an amiable seperation and get the carb & attached (Tillotson) fuel pump off. Reed valves look pristine. Upon dropping the float bowl, evidence of crud presents. 1/3 of a can of carb cleaner later, you pronounce the carb fit for duty & reinstall. SAME thing!
Offit comes again with an eye toward the fuel pump (which had stubborn screws). Apart it comes, and reveals a little crud, AND............ some good news! It has a teflon diaphragm in good shape. Clean, reassemble and put it back together. SAME thing!
Start looking HARD at the fuel pump and the 2 hoses leading thereto: Vac & fuel. Why is the vac line attached to the side of the fuel pump that feeds the carb? The plastic hoses appeared to be original equipment and were all but petrified to hold their shapes. It didn't seem likely that someone wouldd have or COULD have switched 'em. Unless....
Both hoses were completely removed - instead of just at one end. New rubber lines are now in place with the vac line going to the OUTside of the pump and the fuel line going to the INside of the pump.
Squeezed the primer bulb until it got hard and tried again. SAME thing!
Removed the powerhead hose from the male quick-connect and pressed the primer bulb. zilch
Juryrigged some 1/4" copper tubing to bypass both quick-connects. Got fuel to leak outta the carb!
wunnerful
Now it won't even pop.
Cranked until........... the recoil rope broke.
*sigh*
New line and a lube job on the recoil makes it like new.
Crank s'more. No pop.
Pulled the flywheel.
The end of the plug wire that was SUPPOSED to be coming outta the coil was flapping in the breeze 3/8" away from the hole. Someone had tried to glue it but...
*Protip* If you're gonna glue a wire in place... CLEAN it first! I used "Goop" 'Automotive' glue & a wire tie.
That got me reliable spark and enabled me to get it to start & run.
Sort of...
It starts easily enough and idles down OK (I think), but if I advance the throttle after popping it in gear it sounds...
W
However I do feel your pain but I just can't reach you.
