SEI preload and a stern jack

alldodge

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Try to do in short
I short preload is 18 inch pounds

Replacing A1 drive with new SEI 106. Boat has a land and sea 12 inch stern jack which uses a special yoke and not the standard drive shaft. So the drive shaft is removed from new SEI drive to replace U joint.

Removed gear and bearing assembly. Switched out U joint, lube up bearings, tighten nut just barely touching, no torque applied yet and I see 18 inch lb.

Call Tech at SEI and verify SEI is done same as Alpha

So now looks like brand new drive bearings were to tight from factory. Before I try to separate bearings from drive gear I'm checking to see if I should do something else first

@muc , @dubs283 , @Fun Times
 

Scott06

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Try to do in short
I short preload is 18 inch pounds

Replacing A1 drive with new SEI 106. Boat has a land and sea 12 inch stern jack which uses a special yoke and not the standard drive shaft. So the drive shaft is removed from new SEI drive to replace U joint.

Removed gear and bearing assembly. Switched out U joint, lube up bearings, tighten nut just barely touching, no torque applied yet and I see 18 inch lb.

Call Tech at SEI and verify SEI is done same as Alpha

So now looks like brand new drive bearings were to tight from factory. Before I try to separate bearings from drive gear I'm checking to see if I should do something else first

@muc , @dubs283 , @Fun Times
I thought the older alphas the nut was torqued to 85 ft lbs the newer ( maybe 98 and up gen 2 ) uses the rolling torque?
 

alldodge

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The initial start for the nut is listed at 70-80 ft lbs but no torque has been placed on it and I'm to high for rotary preload
 

Fun Times

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The initial start for the nut is listed at 70-80 ft lbs but no torque has been placed on it and I'm to high for rotary preload
Either way it may have to come back apart but it's been a while of physically doing this for me, but I believe there is a process defined as false preload reading before the nut gets any real torqued down in which sounds as if hasn't happened yet? Basically near finger tight still?

You'd need to apply actual torque to start to get an accurate rolling torque.

I don't have manual number 6 as the sei 106 is the A1, Gen1 design but is this the design where you need the hose clamp around the bearing assembly to assemble and check preload?
 

Bt Doctur

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If the gearset uses the inner spacer between the bearings you tighten to 85Ft/lbs ,if the gearset does NOT use the inner spacer and the gears are a press fit you use rolling torque
 

alldodge

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If the gearset uses the inner spacer between the bearings you tighten to 85Ft/lbs ,if the gearset does NOT use the inner spacer and the gears are a press fit you use rolling torque
It uses the inner spacer, so we be good, thanks BT
 

muc

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Something is wrong here. Did you have to press the bearings off the drive gear when you first took it apart? If this has the 2 spacers, large spacer between races and small spacer between bearings. You shouldn't have to press it apart, should just slide off. I've never checked rolling torque on one with the two spacers, so have no idea what it should be. Did you use a hose clamp during assembly?
My first thought is you've got a bad drive from SEI, but that mostly comes from the SEI drives I've rebuilt. Too many times I found things wrong with them during a simple reseal. I could never recommend them. But that was decades ago, maybe they got better?

Side note, never ran a alpha with an extension box. Always wondered if they worked, suppose it's like all the other modifications --- depends on the hull.
 

alldodge

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No I didn't press the bearing off, the bearing a gear came off easy after nut and washer was removed. I did use the hose clamp and lubed the bearings but it just never eased up.

Still not able to attach pic so I sent you the pic on email
 

alldodge

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Hey @Bt Doctur you sure about the 85 Ft Lb, I'm not able to find it in a bulletin anywhere
Emailed you pic also
 
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muc

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If the double bearings don’t slide off the gear with finger pressure, something is wrong with them or you don’t have the style that used the small inner spacer.
I doubt that you have the small inner spacer because the gears that used that haven’t been available for some time.
This leads me to believe that there are now two possibilities. SEI cranked the nut too tight when they assembled it, either by accident or on purpose. It’s possible they did it on purpose because the bearings they use are junk and need to “wear in”. Only SEI can tell you the answer.

Agree that at this point the bearings need to come off the gear for close inspection.

Busy day today, I’ll try to post more detail later.
 

alldodge

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When we first removed the gear/bearing assembly off shaft I tried to see if they were loose and they wouldn't budge

Yea for us, oh poo
 

alldodge

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The Good and the Bad
Good
Pressed it apart, put back together adjusted rolling torque to 8.5 in lb (6 to 10 spec)
Book shows torque nut 70-80 Ft lb

Bad
Torque may have been correct all along. Wrench is for 0-75 in lb. I was reading gauge and see 1.8 not 18

It took my strong arm to torque down enough to get torque above 4 in lb

The 2 new drive halves don't come with all the hardware. Missing the 2 nuts, 2 allen head cap bolts and does not have the shift foot. Ok so we bought 2 halves and not a fully assembled drive

BUT, it's also missing the shift shaft bushing which should be in the upper housing. Why the He hockey sticks is that not in the drive?

Oh and there are no timing marks on the gears
 

Scott06

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The 2 new drive halves don't come with all the hardware. Missing the 2 nuts, 2 allen head cap bolts and does not have the shift foot. Ok so we bought 2 halves and not a fully assembled drive

BUT, it's also missing the shift shaft bushing which should be in the upper housing. Why the He hockey sticks is that not in the drive?

Oh and there are no timing marks on the gears
Was worried you might hit a wall where setback box didnt fit newer style input shaft bearings...

I think SEI ships complete drives split so they are under UPS ground weight limit which I think is like 70 lbs or similar. Looks like they shorted you a few things. Its been a while since I had an alpha gen one I dont recall a shift shaft bushing in upper only a washer and clip to keep bronze shoe in upper housing its splined to shift shaft in lower (make sure its in fwd when you put them together BTDT)

This is an alpha right? no need for timing marks on gears I dont think, those are just used for bravo cone clutch I believe
 

alldodge

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Was worried you might hit a wall where setback box didnt fit newer style input shaft bearings...

I think SEI ships complete drives split so they are under UPS ground weight limit which I think is like 70 lbs or similar. Looks like they shorted you a few things. Its been a while since I had an alpha gen one I dont recall a shift shaft bushing in upper only a washer and clip to keep bronze shoe in upper housing its splined to shift shaft in lower (make sure its in fwd when you put them together BTDT)

This is an alpha right? no need for timing marks on gears I dont think, those are just used for bravo cone clutch I believe
Yes it is a Alpha and Manual 6 shows timing marks on page 3A-30

The 2 halves are back together and it's beer 30 right now
 

Scott06

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Yes it is a Alpha and Manual 6 shows timing marks on page 3A-30

The 2 halves are back together and it's beer 30 right now
didnt know there were timing marks on gen ones. I hope I didn't miss that when I resealed my gen 2 (manual 14) this spring....
 
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