seals and transom saver

[seed]

Guys, have two questions.

Just bought an 01 fish hawk with a 98 Johnson 115 o.b. Why an 01 has a 98 motor I don't know. Anyway, the boat has been on the water only 6 times, maybe 20 hours on the engine. I took it out for the first time a couple days ago, before that it hadn't seen water since 2003 so it's basically like new........although it was stored outside in Montana all these years. Before I ran it we sucked out all the old gas and oil and replaced with new, changed the oil in the lower unit, put in new plugs, greased everything, etc.

After I got back from fishing I checked the oil in the lower unit and it's milky. Is there a particular seal that would have gone bad from sitting so long or should I just replace all of 'em, and the impeller. I put a new impeller in my old boat years ago and I remember it not being a lot of fun, it was an 81 omc i.o. Is it tough to put new seals/impeller in this outboard? (Going to get a Seloc manual regardless.) The repair shop wants $450 to do the work.

Also, when I trailer the boat the motor wants to lay down to the left (port) side. I got a new transom saver but it still won't stay straight after only a few miles on the road. Will this hurt the motor/transom or is that normal? Like I said before my old boat was an inboard outboard so that wasn't an issue.

thanks

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: seals and transom saver

pf you strap the transom saver correctly around the foot of the motor it will stay straight. when you change the lower lube, did you use new seal on the drain and vent plugs? these are only one time use items, and the #1 place for water intrusion. drain, refill, and try new screw seals. Part Number: 0311598. surprized you did not have carb problems.

that motor is not that hard to do the impeller. the shift linkage connection is under the lower carbs. easiest to take bottom carb off. i usually take this time to do my carbs and impeller at the same time, just take them all off to get them out of the way... disconnect linkage, get the mount bolts, (2 are hidden, under the fill above the prop) drop unit, install impeller, secret is to spray impeller and housing with WD40, slide housing over impeller, turn drive shaft clockwise, putting pressure on the housing, and all of a sudden to pops together. remove spark plugs so you can turn flywheel to line up splines. DO NOT TURN SHIFT SHAFT, this changes it's height with is critical.

 

[seed]

Re: seals and transom saver

I strapped it correctly (I believe) but it still moves. Should I still pull down and use the trailering bracket when using the transom saver?

I didn?t use new seals on the drain plugs. They looked ok but probably weren?t. Will order new ones. Should the plugs themselves be replaced too? Can you use Teflon tape on the plug threads?

Did have carb problems initially but sea foam in the tank and carb cleaner seemed to cure the problem, after about 30 minutes of running it ran great.

 

[jsmithwe]

Re: seals and transom saver

Try http://www.lock-n-haul.com. This device will keep your outboard straight and protext your transom and the rigging from motor movement. As far as changing out the impeller, I did it on a small outboard and the only problem I had was getting the drive shaft lined back up when putting the lower unit back on.