Sealant

bwkre

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
177
HI,
I'm in the process of replacing the exhaust cover gaskets and the power head to lower unit gaskets. 1961 Evinrude 18hp model 15034. One more broken bolt to remove from the head and it's ready to assemble. My question : Should I use a permatex "hardening " or "non-hardening" gasket sealant on the exhaust & power head / lower unit gaskets. Most of the gasket materials came off in pieces so I'm not sure if anything was used by the previous owner / mechanic.
 

Chaser 32

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2017
Messages
32
I use Permatex High tack gasket sealant on all my engines. Never had a problem.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
(Gasket Sealers)
(Usually available at any reliable automotive parts type store)
(J. Reeves)

Do Not use any type of sealer on outboard carburetor or intake manifold gaskets as this would cause blockage of various fuel/air passageways. Also, there are new type gaskets, including head gaskets, which are used through out the engines that are coated with a substance that gives a shinny appearance to them. These gaskets are coated with a self sealer and are to be installed as is.... no sealers! Older style head and fuel related gaskets that are not coated with this substance are to be simply coated with oil.... nothing else.

All other gaskets (hopefully I've not overlooked anything above) should be coated with Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap). This also pertains to some water pump installations that use a gasket between the plate and the lower unit housing.

Marprox Sealer 1000 or OMC Adhesive or Boat Armor Sealer 1000 (same substance)[See Below Note] should be used on any metal to metal (Unless GelSeal Is Called For) or metal to plastic surface (such as impeller hsg to plate, and plate to lower unit surface) to eliminate air leaks. It should also be used on the Spaghetti tubing that is used on many powerhead crankcase halves, lower unit skegs, etc. I have found that this substance works quite well on various "O" Rings such as what are found on lower unit carrier and upper driveshaft bearing housings (Note that this substance is obviously not to be used on all "O" Rings). This substance also works quite well in sealing the surfaces between the lower unit and the exhaust housing to which it attaches, eliminating the unsightly water spray between the two after completing a water pump installation.

NOTE 1: I am under the impression that Marprox Sealer 1000 and Boat Armor Sealer 1000 is no longer available.

NOTE 2: OMC Adhesive is now Bombardier 3M Product #847 and may be listed as Scotchgrip 847, part number 776964.

DO NOT use any sealer on the large "O" Rings that are used on the upper and lower crankcase heads (The housing/heads that slide over the top and bottom of the crankshaft). On those "O" Rings, use only a coating of grease.

The exception of surface to surface contacts pertains to the later model matching crankcase (block) halves (which does not incorporate spaghetti tubing) which call for "Gel-Seal", or any other surface that calls for Gel-Seal. This substance seals in the absence of air, and if called for, must be used. One other form of Gel Seal that can be substituted is "Loctite #518". Nothing else that I know of will do!

I advise against using silicone or permatex on a outboard engine. It simply will not function properly. The exception to this (as per OMC's recommendation), is to use the black Permatex (heavily) on the gasket 306242 which seperates the inner exhaust tube from the exhaust housing on the 1959 35hp and 1960 to 1970 40hp OMC outboards.
 

bwkre

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
177
Update : SO I finally received all the parts I needed to complete the replacement of the exhaust cover gaskets. The 3M Scotchgrip 847 ended costing 66 cdn for the 5oz tube! The service manual said the cover was to be done with sealer 1000 so rather than do the job again I used the suggested replacement, 3M 847.

Got started applying the 847 to the case first then the first gasket. By the time I was ready to attach them, the stuff was already skinned over. Too late to stop, on to applying on the backside of the gasket, inner cover and so forth till everything was assembled. Much of the adhesive seemed dried before I was ready for bolts. Tightened all the bolts in a nice pattern from inside to out till everything was snug. Then I applied some warming from a hair dryer and re-tightened the cover bolts in the same pattern. The warmth seems to have allowed the adhesive to bond better, tighter, as I was able to snug the bolts a bit more. I couldn't believe how fast the 847 dried! I let the unit sit 24 hours and the started it up. So far so good and friday I will get it into the lake.

Anyone see issues with what I did in warming the covers? It certainly allowed more adhesive to squeeze out and there was not turning back once I started.
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Unfortunately you have misread my write-up on sealers. The #847 sealer which replaced the #1000 sealer is for metal to metal surfaces... not gaskets. However, if it worked for you and there are no leaks, let it go.

The part you apparently overlooked is as follows, copied from my database.

All other gaskets (hopefully I've not overlooked anything above) should be coated with Gasket Sealer (the type that comes in a can that has a small brush in its screw off cap). This also pertains to some water pump installations that use a gasket between the plate and the lower unit housing.
 
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