Sea Ray 250 Sundancer hull damage need advise

[mr300z87]

I am working replacing the 7.4L engine on a 1990 Sea Ray Sundancer 250 see thread.

http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...r-7-4l-engine-replacement-project-623926.html

Last week I started to clean the bilge and notice this crack in the hull



That is the motor mount above my foot in the first picture. My foot also gives some scale. I was able to stick a razor blade between a 1/16 and an 1/8 of an inch into the crack. On the outside of the hull the is no visual damage or patch work in the location and there is no movement or flexing when I apply my weight to the area. What would cause damage like this? It look to me like would need to come from the outside.

I have read enough of this forum to know the procedure to repair is to grind out the glass to get to uncracked clean glass and the fill with layers of 1708?? I think. Is this necessary or do I just leave it?

Does any body know what Sea Ray used to coat the bilge?

As always advise is always appreciated

 

[DeepBlue2010]

I was reading your engine replacement thread and I saw the link to this forum. What you see in this picture is gelcoat cracking. This can be done because of fiberglass flexing when the boat was swamped (I know the history of the boat from reading your engine replacement thread). The gelcoat thickness in this area might have been a little over what it should be which might be the reason for the crack. If I were you, I would grind the gel until I get to fresh glass and see if there are any visual cracks in the fiberglass. If so, time to reglass and if not just reapply gel with matching color to what you have.

Since the boat was swamped, I would take a core sample from the lowest point of the transom, engine mounts and stringers. I use a 1/2 hole saw to cut through the fiber glass layer only (not the wood behind it) this gives me better visibility into the wood color behind the glass. and then, I use 1/4 drill bit and drill an inch depth and inspect the shavings. Yellow and dry - as wood should be - you are good to go. Dark, wet, black rot. Bad news.

However, it is easier to tackle these issues now that you got the engine out than to find out about them - the hard way - later.

Best of luck to you.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

I did not pay attention to how old this post was before replying to it. My mistake.

 

[Woodonglass]

DB has given you sound advice. Better to check the condition of everything now while you're there. Flexing is most likely the cause. Fix is pretty straight forward as described. Keep us posted.

 

[mr300z87]

Just wanted to take a quick moment and mention, that after further investigation I found this to me nothing more than cracks in the gel coat and I have decided to just leave it. As for the transom and other stuctures in the hull my core sampling has shown no signs of rot. The overall condition of this boat is very good considering it 25 years old and will have survived super storm Sandy. I believe the previous owners took very good care of it until the B1 drive failed at which time it was shrink wrapped and put in dry dock back in 2010. Would it be bad luck to name her SS Sandy? Btw no engine install today it's raining.

 

[zool]

Btw no engine install today it's raining.

Yea mrZ, looks like a bummer wash out day here in jerze....but not having to do the transom sounds like a day in the sun! ...