Sea Ray 1977 200SR

[southkogs]

You may want to do a couple of checks on the Stringer drive: 1) pull the upper gear case and see if it turns free. You should be able to turn it by hand (or maybe using a hand tool), but it should move relatively easy. Then you may want 2) test the lower to see if it shifts into gear.

If either of those two things aren't happening properly, it's a gear box rebuild. Kenny, Scott or Lou know more about that than I do. If you're confident rebuilding transmissions, you may be all set. I was less than worthy

 

[kenny nunez]

There may be an internal crack on the starboard side of the block below the intake manifold. Most times the head does not.
I recently purchased a 94 F 150 with a cracked 302. I located a rebuildable 351 for $300.00 and rebuilt it. In my 30 plus years as a stern drive shop I never reused manifolds when replacing cracked engines. I am sure your son can weld up the outside of the manifolds but if there is an internal crack his time will be wasted.
The best way to repair a visible cracked block is with a lace or cold weld. There used to be a local shop that specialized in cracked diesel engine heads and blocks. Hopefully there may be a shop in your area that provides that service.
I am 100% sure you will find water in the upper gear and the tilt clutch housings. The main culprit will be the seal surface of the ball gear. Try to get a genuine OMC service manual for the drive.
I just sent you a private message with my phone number.

 

[badcrank 77]

Pulling the engine on Monday. Removed the stern drive, and there was a little water in the oil both upper & lower cases, but mostly very old oil. Which for it's age and harden seals, I would assume this is common place. Everything i.e. shaft's, gears, bearing etc turn freely,

 

[badcrank 77]

On the ball shaft from the engine, when removed it had only good looking oil in it. On the tilt clutch housing , yes it had both water and oil in it. I drained it all, super cleaned it, made and water proof gasket for it, and put a light coat of red high temp silicon gasket maker on both sides and refiled with 30 w motor oil. Installed new tilt motor I refurbished, and everything worked super. Yes I have studied up on the Stitch -n- loc and looks like the way to do things, and also possibly using loctight metal weld epoxy. Will know more when I get into the internals of the motor. Not going to spend any money yet on the stern drive parts until I know the 351W (235)hp can be brought back to working condition. This is a big project, I am a fair mechanic, and my Son is a master mechanic, so I am in fairly good shape there.
Thanks again to all, you people are just super, and I so appreciate the input, for this is my first, go around with a I/O boat (and will be my last adventure) with bringing a vintage boat back to life. But will be great if everything turns out without investing a fortune

 

[Redrig]

How are the splines on that ball gear shaft ? Thats a wear item on these stringers and will eventually strip out with the coupler on the engine.

 

[badcrank 77]

The splines on the ball gear shaft, look like new. But the ball gear is badly worn, will order those new along with seals etc. The magnets in the lower gear box had very little if any metal shavings on them. Which is a good thing. And the coils had a normal 6.1 ohms resistance, so I'm good there. Will be pulling the motor today and getting it on a stand. will be tearing into the upper gear case today and get a new water pump kit on order.

 

[Redrig]

Excellent . Did that ball gear shaft come out fairly easily ?

Mine was brutal, it took several hours of heat and tapping and yanking on it with a tow strap and rachet off the receiver of my truck . 40 years is sludge basically welded it together . I didn't think I would ever be able to remove it , but once I got it out luckily the splines were still in great shape like yours.

 

[badcrank 77]

Mine came out super easy, by hand. In fact everything in the OMC stringer came apart with ease. The water pump was shot and the reverse clutch had the downward tip broken, which happened's 90% of the time, because some non educated boater put it in reverse with the engine above 2000 rpm and slamming it into gear. So far with a few (expensive parts) I will have this out-drive running like new. Only bad spline shaft was the water pump shaft, and of course the water pump completely shot. My theory is, when it would never go in reverse and not pump water. the boat was parked. and set for years. This is why it came apart so easy and the oil in the upper & lower gear boxes, was not all that bad.

 

[badcrank 77]

The Sea ray saga continues.

 

[badcrank 77]

Stern drive, cleaned and done, just need to order parts then it is re-assembly time.

 

[airshot]

Before going anyfurther, I would do a thorough inspection on the wood superstructure in the hull and transom. At that age there will be some rotten wood and water soaked foam flotation. Not gonna do much good to have a running engine with a rotten hull. Unless rebuilt, most glass hulls that age are junk. Sorry for being crude, but those are the facts.

 

[badcrank 77]

Wow thank you for the info. The fiberglass looks real solid and good on the outer hull. Is there some where I can check to see if what your are saying is a possibility with this hull.

 

[flashback]

Wow thank you for the info. The fiberglass looks real solid and good on the outer hull. Is there some where I can check to see if what your are saying is a possibility with this hull.

Drill some holes from the inside of the transom down low. 1/4 inch deep, don't go all the way through. If you get wet wood shavings, rotten wood, it will need a full restoration.

 

[airshot]

Wow thank you for the info. The fiberglass looks real solid and good on the outer hull. Is there some where I can check to see if what your are saying is a possibility with this hull.

Get under the floor in engine compartment and check wood stringers they are encased in fiberglass, but drill a hole and check wood inside. Holes are easily plugged and sealed if wood is dry and solid. Tilt up the out drive and get on and bounce up and down hard, if you see the transom flexing you have a problem !! Older glass boats were designed to last 25 yrs tops, many newer, better quality glass boats, no longer use wood in the structure. Unfortunately with the age of your hull, it is more probable than just a possibility. A transom failure when out on the water is not something you want to go thru !!

 

[badcrank 77]

Will do as you say, Monday 06/10 and report back.

 

[badcrank 77]

I found the transom to be rock solid, the only issue I found was the separation board between the engine and the the center of the hull towards the gas tank, had some dry rot in it, so I am replacing that, for it is only a 14" x 15" 3/4 board. Will use marine plywood.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I found the transom to be rock solid, the only issue I found was the separation board between the engine and the the center of the hull towards the gas tank, had some dry rot in it, so I am replacing that, for it is only a 14" x 15" 3/4 board. Will use marine plywood.

buy a lottery ticket

 

[airshot]

Boats rot from the bottom up, dig deeper there will be more !!! Not being a spoil sport here, but trying to prevent a serious disaster on the water. In my 60 plus years of boat ownership, I have stumbled across some scary stuff and ugly failures on the water. Keep in mind that wood is a skeleton for your fiberglass, if the skeleton is compromised, the fiberglass will fail. Also some foam used as flotation is deep in the hull, over time it becomes waterlogged
and speeds up the rot in the wood skeleton. Wish I had better news, but have saw this way to often in old glassers....be safe, your family depends on you to keep them safe !

 

[racerone]

Round of applause for the above post !

 

[badcrank 77]

Ok I hear you, I am going to cut out the area between the motor and the gas tank, that way I can see down into the bottom of the hull and frame work.